body men & welders
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well willy,willy J said:
when oyu find soemone good at it and cheap let me know and send them my way, i need mine done as well
eric
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POR-15 has a body putty that can seal the holes and build back up the thickness. The stuff hardens up just like steel. Stuff is called Resto GRIP. Follow link:
http://www.prp-porstore.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RG&Category_Code=Fillers
http://www.prp-porstore.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RG&Category_Code=Fillers
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Seeing as how you can't weld one option would be to rivet a piece of sheet metal over that and then use some of that POR-15 body putty to fill in the gaps. Or just have one of your friends with the mig welder do it(best option).
This should net you about 7yrs on the floor:
Use a grinder and get all the scally rust off. Do underside as well.
Use some Marine clean to wash it down and scrub with a new bbq brush. Rinse very well, inc brush.
Use Metal ready and scrub again then rinse clean. Be sure to rinse everything well.
Use rags to mop up puddle areas and let dry a day or till it's DRY!
Put a coat of POR15 on and let it get tacky. Then get some fine glass matt or use the trunk repair kit from POR, And stick it down and give it a coat, which I now called my first coat. (since this is the first coat on the new fiberglass floor.) Let it dry for a day or two and once hard rough it with a scottch brite pad every where.
Give 2 more coats (drying til tachy not able to see on your fingure but tacky) and proceed to underside of floor pan, and let completely dry day or two. Turns hard like steel and works great.
I have done this twice now once 5yrs ago and last year, since the first one holds so well and was still holding when I sold the rig.
Just follow the POR instructions, it works.
I have done more on my rig in regaurds to the addation of B-quiet, a sound deadening / heat elimination and also a heavy Jute underlay.
I figure if I get 7yrs out of it, I then could do floor pans welded in at that time. I may by a mig by then.
Hope that might help.
Use a grinder and get all the scally rust off. Do underside as well.
Use some Marine clean to wash it down and scrub with a new bbq brush. Rinse very well, inc brush.
Use Metal ready and scrub again then rinse clean. Be sure to rinse everything well.
Use rags to mop up puddle areas and let dry a day or till it's DRY!
Put a coat of POR15 on and let it get tacky. Then get some fine glass matt or use the trunk repair kit from POR, And stick it down and give it a coat, which I now called my first coat. (since this is the first coat on the new fiberglass floor.) Let it dry for a day or two and once hard rough it with a scottch brite pad every where.
Give 2 more coats (drying til tachy not able to see on your fingure but tacky) and proceed to underside of floor pan, and let completely dry day or two. Turns hard like steel and works great.
I have done this twice now once 5yrs ago and last year, since the first one holds so well and was still holding when I sold the rig.
Just follow the POR instructions, it works.
I have done more on my rig in regaurds to the addation of B-quiet, a sound deadening / heat elimination and also a heavy Jute underlay.
I figure if I get 7yrs out of it, I then could do floor pans welded in at that time. I may by a mig by then.
Hope that might help.
soon as i feel the drivetrain is trustworthy i will! i was hoping someone could just plug weld some metal filler in the holes.CAMO RAM said:
im not discrediting the POR 15 at all! i plan on using it on the pan after its fixed. i just do not want any fiberglass next to where my seat mounts are! and i dont trust fiberglass to hold a seat, me, a bolt an some washers down in a wreck or a rollover.
Camo. when i bring it down can you fab a mount/brace underneath to provide more support?
I agree a solid fix is best off first. If it's just your foot floor area the seat won't break thru because there is cross suports there. From your picture it looks like just the floor. I bet the metal in that whole area is thin and rusty. Try and push on it or use a screw driver to poke around anything thin or rusty should be removed and welded in new. My 84 looked the same and I used the POR with glass. Still holding and I sold the rig. My 92 floor was clean & no rust, but I wanted to make it stronger and protect it from ever ending up like that. I used the glass in both, one for the repair (84) and one for added strength (92).
My first choice in your case would be weld new pans in, then POR in and out.
My first choice in your case would be weld new pans in, then POR in and out.
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