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I melted down my fuse box this morning :\'(. Stupid damn blower motor fuse again :mad:. Instead of blowing they just melt. Anyway what is the best way to fix this? I am assuming bypassing the fuse box and adding an inline fuse? Maybe upgrade the wire too? Should I pull the box and undo the wires there? Can somebody walk me through this? I hate electrical crap. ???
 

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RevJayBear said:
I melted down my fuse box this morning :\'(. Stupid damn blower motor fuse again :mad:. Instead of blowing they just melt. Anyway what is the best way to fix this? I am assuming bypassing the fuse box and adding an inline fuse? Maybe upgrade the wire too? Should I pull the box and undo the wires there? Can somebody walk me through this? I hate electrical crap. ???
is this the new fuse panel i just gave you??!!!!!!!

man you are hard on those things ;D

the most reliable and least damaging method i have found for this jay is just to bypass the blower motor switch in the heater control panel. i have never melted a fuse panel, but i have melted about 3 different control switches.

i bypassed mine and just added a toggle switch to it, no speed control, just the one speed, but i havent melted anything since i did this either

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
intenseimages said:
RevJayBear said:
I melted down my fuse box this morning :\'(. Stupid damn blower motor fuse again :mad:. Instead of blowing they just melt. Anyway what is the best way to fix this? I am assuming bypassing the fuse box and adding an inline fuse? Maybe upgrade the wire too? Should I pull the box and undo the wires there? Can somebody walk me through this? I hate electrical crap. ???
is this the new fuse panel i just gave you??!!!!!!!

man you are hard on those things ;D

the most reliable and least damaging method i have found for this jay is just to bypass the blower motor switch in the heater control panel. i have never melted a fuse panel, but i have melted about 3 different control switches.

i bypassed mine and just added a toggle switch to it, no speed control, just the one speed, but i havent melted anything since i did this either

eric
No it's the old one. The second one I've put in though. I would swap the boxes but I don't want to melt it too. I thought about bypassing the whole switch too. Maybe run it to a multiposition switch. Do I just run the + wire to the switch and then to the batt.? Should I put an inline fuse in it?
 
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If you're going to use a simple toggle switch without the speed control, why not wire it up through a relay? Keep all that nasty high amperage out of the switch?
 

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RevJayBear said:
intenseimages said:
RevJayBear said:
I melted down my fuse box this morning :\'(. Stupid damn blower motor fuse again :mad:. Instead of blowing they just melt. Anyway what is the best way to fix this? I am assuming bypassing the fuse box and adding an inline fuse? Maybe upgrade the wire too? Should I pull the box and undo the wires there? Can somebody walk me through this? I hate electrical crap. ???
is this the new fuse panel i just gave you??!!!!!!!

man you are hard on those things ;D

the most reliable and least damaging method i have found for this jay is just to bypass the blower motor switch in the heater control panel. i have never melted a fuse panel, but i have melted about 3 different control switches.

i bypassed mine and just added a toggle switch to it, no speed control, just the one speed, but i havent melted anything since i did this either

eric
No it's the old one. The second one I've put in though. I would swap the boxes but I don't want to melt it too. I thought about bypassing the whole switch too. Maybe run it to a multiposition switch. Do I just run the + wire to the switch and then to the batt.? Should I put an inline fuse in it?
the main probs with mine was the switch itself, i just unhooked the wires off of the back of the switch and hooked them directly to the toggle, so the only thing bypassed was the blower control switch in the panel, havent had any probs since

where you have melted the actual fuse section, might try running the toggle to a switched hot wire in the fuse panel and installing an inline fuse

another thing, if heater speed control is really important to you, instead of a toggle switch, you might try running a rheostat style switch instead

eric
 

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Well, I'll have to say "welcome to the world of old didge trucks !

I have had similar problems, and almsot all were attributed to the lousy switch dodge uses.

I solved mine by taking a flat fuse holder, 30 A rated, and using a dremel tool, I opened the melted setion where it is supposed to be, and pushed the new fuse holder inthere. I used the same spot, so I don't have to remember where it is. I replaced the switch, and wiring, and it has been working fine for over 6 yrs now.

I do need to rewire it now, as the speeds seem to be gettgin slower...may be time for a new fan.
 

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ok jay give this a try.

disconnect the 2 original wires from fuse panel, install an inline fuse in place of original fuse, using the same amperage rated fuse. then go over to your heater control switch and unplug the 2 wires from the back of the blower switch, hook these 2 wires up to either a toggle or a rheostat style switch.

this should solve most if not all of your problems with the thing.

one thing to check though, check the wires coming off of the blower motor itself and the connections, the wires may have frayed where the come through the firewall and be causing a short in the system, thereby leading to your everlasting problem

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys. I've got to do something soon. It's winter and I am afraid of using the heater/defrost. I don't want t fire.

Eric I think I'll go with the rheostat style...I like the different speeds. I just need to get by for now then when things warm up I can really fix it.

I really like Ramchargermans way to still use the fuse box. I may do that on the spare. Great idea. Love the Dremel tool.

Think 4 gauge wire is too heavy? LOL!;D
 

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I wanted to clarify here..I used a 30 amp rated fuse holder & wire, but a 20 amp fuse.

10 ga should be sufficient.
 

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actually jay i dont know if that 4 gauge would work or not, i think you should try some 1/0 battery cable for it ;D ;D lmfao

i agree with mark, i believe 10 gauge should be more than heavy enough for it, if you are gonna bypass it. if you are just using the original fuse panel and heater switch wires then no worries

eric
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
intenseimages said:
actually jay i dont know if that 4 gauge would work or not, i think you should try some 1/0 battery cable for it ;D ;D lmfao

i agree with mark, i believe 10 gauge should be more than heavy enough for it, if you are gonna bypass it. if you are just using the original fuse panel and heater switch wires then no worries

eric
LMAO!

This is good info and should be a FAQ I think. I am also gonna have to do it in the "Shaggin Waggon" too, it's got a melted up blower fuse too. Why is this so common? Is it the shitty way they are wired, switched, or is it the motors? Just curious. I worry more about it melting down and FUBARing other fuses. By the way the fuses aren't blowing they are melting in the end caps. What's up with that?
 

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RevJayBear said:
intenseimages said:
actually jay i dont know if that 4 gauge would work or not, i think you should try some 1/0 battery cable for it ;D ;D lmfao

i agree with mark, i believe 10 gauge should be more than heavy enough for it, if you are gonna bypass it. if you are just using the original fuse panel and heater switch wires then no worries

eric
LMAO!

This is good info and should be a FAQ I think. I am also gonna have to do it in the "Shaggin Waggon" too, it's got a melted up blower fuse too. Why is this so common? Is it the shitty way they are wired, switched, or is it the motors? Just curious. I worry more about it melting down and FUBARing other fuses. By the way the fuses aren't blowing they are melting in the end caps. What's up with that?
i believe most of the problem is in the crappy switch on the control panel, i just happen to have been fortunate enough for it to melt the switch, while you guys have had it happen in the fuse panel

eric
 

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the way they crimp the fuse block ends together don't help either...years of corrosion make for high resistance.
 

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I made up this wiring diagram for someone else on the board. Check/replace the blower motor switch on the dash control...if the connector/harness is melted replace it also. If you have 3 speeds you can always add another relay but it's the Med and High blower settings that draw the most current.

 

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Questions for Chump:

I just ordered two dtsp 40 amp relays. I am going to try to figure how to use the dash panel switch and go through the original resistors for the top two speeds. I might need more relays. Right now I hope to get the high and medium hooked up. Any suggestions and diagrams would be appreciated.
 

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Check the heater motor blower resistor assembly. It is mounted on top of the heater box, under the dash behind the glove box. It is held on with 2 screws. It has 4 or 5 wires attached to it. Had trouble with my 81 RC heater it had only high. Changed the resistor assembly with another one from the JY and it fixed the problem.
 

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i added relays when i installed my new switch,replaced melted out fuse with a flat blade type fuse and just let fuse holder lay flat on top of fusebox with wires passed through old holes where original fuse had blown out.i wired low through relay pin 87a then med through 87 and high on second relay.the original wiring and power only run low circuit and serve as a trigger for the med-high circuits .its not a lot of work,and well worth it.does anybody smell a how to?
 

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offroader_dodge said:
i added relays when i installed my new switch,replaced melted out fuse with a flat blade type fuse and just let fuse holder lay flat on top of fusebox with wires passed through old holes where original fuse had blown out.i wired low through relay pin 87a then med through 87 and high on second relay.the original wiring and power only run low circuit and serve as a trigger for the med-high circuits .its not a lot of work,and well worth it.does anybody smell a how to?
Can you post a schematic of your wiring? What you did sounds exactlywhat I want.
thanks
 

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I've recently had fuse-blowin problems, which I traced to bad wiring between the blower motor and the wiring harness. I think water gets down on them from the cowl and shorts it out.

Anyway! I want to make the turnpot/rheostat modification because I have the dreaded '84 blower motor resistor that doesn't work (so the blower is always on 12V high speed).

My question is: what ohm rating do I need the turnpot to be? Does it matter as long as it's high? I like the ideas in this thread, I just need to know the specifics.
 
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