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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know several folks have done this. I'm tempted to try it with the heads still on the truck, since I'll be in there with a drill doing the famous front stud replacement trick... ::)

(I will also tap and plug the header air passages.)

What drill and tap size did you use ?

Any problems ?

Other advice ?
 

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I used a standard 1/4 X 20 tap and short 1/4 inch set screws. About 1/2 an inch should work. Just be sure to put some locktite on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
LOL, yeah Loctite sounds good to me. I was thinking of use headless allen screws...
 

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this is what we used on my truck....
 

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Smokey said:
LOL, yeah Loctite sounds good to me. I was thinking of use headless allen screws...
Headless allen screws are set screws. I just went to ace hardware and picked up 8 of them. If they are too long you might be able to fit a grinder down in there to shorten them up.
 

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I used solid steel tapered dowel pins. I just came across them at one of those hardware stores that have every nut and bolt known to man.
I hammered them into the hole and then broke them off. So far they have not come out in 11 years.
 

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Locktite won't hold up at the temps it will see. but with set screws they are designed to be bottomed out and not loosen up. So if you tighten them up they shouldn't ever back out.
 

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I tapped mine deep enough to get two small set screws in it. I use locktite on both but know the lock tite will burn off in time.
 

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c'mon smokey you are letting me down. use good ol' duct tape. ;D ;D


actually what i would suggest you use to seal them in with is copper spray a gasket. it is designed to work at engine temps

eric
 

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Well, I drilled mine and put in set screws, then some jb weld on the outside to kinda hide them. Works great.

IF you drill them in the truck, be careful. I did that once and broke 1 drill bit and 2 taps trying to do it in the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I can see how... it's not the easiest reach.
aybe just some JB weld without drilling and threading...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ah, you have chosen wisely, Grasshopper.
 

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there is no need to drill them. they are ready to be tapped at the size they are. I'm not sure its a 1/4-20 though. I think its a smaller size.
 

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I used a 1/4-20 without drilling-worked perfectly.
 

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Yeah, i just bought the dynomax headers and of course i got rid of all the smog stuff. I drilled and taped with 1/4 20 set screws (allen heads). BTW, the stinken headers didnt even fit!! I couldnt even lower the engine down on the mounts cuz the headers were sittin on the frame. Stupid dynomax!!
 

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Hooker makes the best fitting header overall for our application, and gives you a location where the collectors end up that you or a competent exhaust shop can work with to run the balance of the exhasut from. Higher mileage engines tend to carbon up the "AI" holes, so I would advise, (Based on practical experience), that you run the tap drill size required for a 1/4" x 20 tpi set screw in the holes and clean them out. The exhaust residue / carbon is highly abrasive and tends to load the tap up, causing it to bind and lock up.

Brubaker is my personal tap of preference in terms of reliability / performance. A starter type tap should be used wit lots of lubricant, like "Tap Free" or another oil or silicone based lube. Mark the desired depth of the threads on the tap with tape of your choosing. I ran my 5/16" long set screws in with red Locktite flush with the surface of the head, torqued them to approx. 200 in/lb and haven't ever had a problem.

No sense making more out of this job than we have to, but patience and planning sure makes the job a lot easier than it sounds. I did mine over the fender, which requires lots of patience, using a wrench / adjustable wrench to turn the tap, due to accessability.

Dave
 

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we all do things different ..the same way ... i used an angle air drill w/ a short drill bit drilled to use 5/16 x3/8 " long set screws. [ 5./16 -18 thread]. why /? i bottomed the screws flush ,they lock them selves .the carbon will be the lock tight.. over a year ago no problems 8)
 

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;D gosh i dont under stand it eithe..whats a 5/16" hole in the exaust port dumping exaust gas into the engine compartment going to hurt?? it will sound goooood too :eek:
 
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