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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
PO had 31s on this truck. If a lift was installed, It was quite a while ago because everything underneath has a similar patine. (Did the snow plow trucks come a little taller?

Anyway, had 31s, no mods, added 35s. Truck looks 100 times better but handles 10 times worse.
 

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Definitely has a lift.  Looks to be a shackle flip in the back due to the spring angle and the wheel being shifted forward in the wheelwell.
 

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agreed , lifted quite a bit ,  rear wheel IS forward quite a bit , are BOTH sides of the rear like that or just 1 side?
photos of the front where springs meet axle , and steering linkage , photos of the rear axle/leafs . Check the toe in .. and all the wear items ... ;)  poor handling is fixable , usually .
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes. Both rear tires are forward. Someone had trimmed the front fenders in the past. Wasn’t  worried about 35s fitting up front, did a test fit more for rear because of the forward shift.

First 4 are rear suspension.

Last 3 are front. Couple of odd brackets in the pics are from original snow plow equipment.

Planning a Borgeson steering shaft for future but may need to move it up with the way its handling a the moment.
 

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In the last pic, that drag link should be almost perfectly horizontal. A dropped pitman arm may help with some of the steering issues. BTW, nice truck.

Mike
 

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I bet the spring eyes on the front leafs contact the frame on compression. Get some longer ones in there. The added length will also help your caster, and thus the handling.

You could buy or build a 'zero-rate' or axle offset plate to shift the rear axle back. Watch your drivehshaft length.

Has that drag link been cut/welded or bent?  It'd not difficult to build a better one... some DOM tube, inserts, GM DLE/TRE ends, and ream out the knuckle arm top-down.
 

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yes and if the steering got worse with bigger tires , check the toe in/out part of aglinement , tire size alone wouldn't make the bump steer from drag link 10 time worse , but it would make toe worse . are there tapered shims under the front springs ? they effect alinement as well ....?  so it looks like a coupla things could make it better... less bump steer - drag link - look steer /wander-toe in
 

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Definitely a shackle flip in the rear.  Hopefully that bracket is reinforced somehow on the other side and the shackle isn't mounted in single shear.  Front springs are lift springs, but not much.  I can't tell if the front mount was modified with the other bracketry going on there.  I agree that the shackle on the front springs is too short for the position of the spring.  Alternatively, if the spring could be shifted forward it would help also, but the steering would need adjustment then as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think from advice and other articles, is to start with dropped pitman arm.  Borgensen  steering shaft next. If necessary the adjustable drag link.

Only real question I don’t see answered, I’ve seen a spacer for the steering box for trucks lifted 3” or more. Weird angle how the shaft inserts now. Helpful? Or not really?
 

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The Borgeson shaft won't help much if the stock lower shaft is in good shape. As much as people say the stocker sucks, I have no worn-out stock ones... only a worn-out Borgeson unit. Go figure.  ???

Regardless, a good amount of caster will track a truck straight even with a shot box and shaft.

I shifted my front axle forward ~1/2" for 3-4" lift. That effectively 'adjusted' the stock draglink to the correct length for equal steering left and right. YMMV.
 

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the problem is when driving trying to hold in a lane on anything but a super flat road ? a touch of the wheel and it darts ?  use a tape measure and a helper measure from tire to tire , check the toe in , the lenght of the steering rod between the left and right wheels adjusts that . if it got worse JUST by changing the tires ( grip on road), that is where I'd start , and it costs nothing but time . Of coarse it MAY be a large complicated problem , like drag link angles ,( which cause problems over bumps) but I'd eliminate the simple stuff first . 
 

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It does sound like a toe issue if it's darty to the touch of the wheel.

I have a bad drag-link angle too (near bind)... doesn't dart, no problems with bumps.

Larger tires tend to amplify existing problems. Scrub radius (and thus stability) is reduced when the tire gets bigger on the same wheel. I've run into that with 35" pizza-cutters on stock wheels. That's why you want to move the tire's center outboard as you increase the height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Trouble mainly seems to be loose or sloppy steering. When it tends to wander one way, any touch of the wheel to compensate, overcompensates. So at times, fighting to keep a straight line without side swiping a row of parked cars. Far worse with any speed. So 45 on surface streets is about it.  Though really when I brought it home on the freeway because of low gear ration it tops out between 55-60 and it’s screaming then.

I did look at the pitman arm. It is on the splines but Cocked at a tough angle just to connect.

No scrubbing. Bumps are harsh but don’t seem to be worse than normal conditions.

 

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rod1701 said:
Trouble mainly seems to be loose or sloppy steering. When it tends to wander one way, any touch of the wheel to compensate, overcompensates. So at times, fighting to keep a straight line without side swiping a row of parked cars. Far worse with any speed. So 45 on surface streets is about it. Though really when I brought it home on the freeway because of low gear ration it tops out between 55-60 and it's screaming then.

I did look at the pitman arm. It is on the splines but Cocked at a tough angle just to connect.

No scrubbing. Bumps are harsh but don't seem to be worse than normal conditions.
Really sounds like insufficient caster. When you have enough, it will want to center itself.

Scrub radius is present in most steering systems. Here's an example:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/project-vehicles/131-0510-off-road-buggy-seats-wheels/#photo-03
 

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you do have a tape measure ? or are you convinced its nothing so simple as incorrect toe in ? or just sure I'm wrong to suggest checking it ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I’m not sure it will be that simple but it’s worth taking a few new measurements to see if it’s in or how far out it is. May be next weekend because it’s been raining here the last few days. Thanks for the advice.
 

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good , thanks , sorry if I jumped on that ... had in-laws , they'd ask 5 mechanics what the problem was , get only 2 different answers , then pick something no one suggested and pay to have that replaced ...
always start with the simplest easiest cheapest thing and hope you get lucky .... IMO 
 
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