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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys!
I have a optima in my RC that apparently got drained down pretty good from sitting for so long. I went to charge it over the weekend but ran into a problem.
I had tried to charge it before with it connected to the RC, but the charger kept saying it had a full charge.
So I figured there was a drain on the battery that was confusing the charger.
I disconnected the battery from the truck and checked the voltage, it was at about 1 volt. (not good, I know)
Hooked up the charger Sun and let it go on a 2 amp charge. Checked it Mon, it was @ about 10 volts.
Checked it Tues and it was STILL @ about 10 volts, but I noticed it was also QUITE warm!!
Did I kill this thing somehow?
I am wondering if one of the cells reversed polarity on me from draining down so far?
Is it possible to get it to take a full charge again?
Or is it just shot?
Thanx!
Chris
 
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Optimas are designed to take that kind of abuse so I doubt you killed it by letting it drain that far. Of course, you may have got a bad one from the start. I've been selling them for a couple years now and never had one come back that was bad but it could happen. Try taking it to an Autozone and ask them to trickle charge it. Make sure to tell them NOT to fast charge it, that would kill it for sure. It'll take a few hours but its worth it.

Chris
 

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chris,

is it a red top or a yellow top? i know a guy in american falls who will give you a whole pile of red tops. he refuses to carry them in his store anymore, got tired of replacing them for people within the first year.

however, he is the only person i know of who has had any problems with the optimas

eric
 
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I used to work at a battery plant. Summer is the time batteries go. My last two were in August. If the battery doesn't come right back for you, even after sitting, its shot.

Save yourself the aggravation and just get another one. If it's under the specified lifetime guarantee you may get some $$$ knocked off the replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, slight update here. Checked it tonight and it is down to 5 volts in a day with NO drain on it. It was in my RC that has been parked for over a year. It was hooked up to the truck and the only drains I know of are the memory leads for the radio and the alarm. Probably about 1-2 amps, but it sat for a year without charging, I KNOW that will drain it down, but is it enough to kill it? It's less then 2 years old. Problem with replacement is I don't remember where I got it, and I don't have the reciept. Eric, if you are serious, give him my e-mail! lol I like the batteries, this is my first. but I know there are supposed to be good ones. Problem is, I can't afford the $100 or so to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BTW, Wycowboy, Thats what I did was a 2 amp charge for 2 days. I know it was dead enough to cook it if I tried 15 amps! lol
 

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phoenix827 said:
It's less then 2 years old. Problem with replacement is I don't remember where I got it, and I don't have the reciept.
That's the great thing about Optimas. You don't need them. As long as the warranty label was punched out less than 3 years ago, you can bring it to anyplace that sells Optimas and get a new one no questions asked. Now if you're lucky, the place that you got it from didn't punch the label, and you can just punch it yourself (go for about a year). Costco is good for that.. ;)

Matt {peace}
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hmm! ;D
 

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phoenix827 said:
Eric, if you are serious, give him my e-mail! lol I like the batteries,
chris, the pile he would give you is the pile of bad ones he has had to replace ;D ;D

i gues i should have made myself a bit clearer

eric
 

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Its dead burry it a year sitting even with no draw here in AZ its junk. We have realy short battery life here 18 to 24 months tops. Thats one reason I always run sears gold batterys 36 month replacement. 24 month life :) I havent realy dealt with the optimas but I think the red top is the same as a regular battery. Blue top is a deep cycle (I think that one would have recharged) I have no idea what the yellow top is for (other that hondas)but im ramblin
Wyatt
 

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yes it will kill it. my cherokee sat for a month with the only draw being the alarm and the memory lead for the radio and i damn near had to get a new battery. if it had sat for much longer i would have but i cought it at 5volts so it was saved....
 

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l just got my new battery today from the Interstate dude / he told me the correct way to bring back a Opitma / you hafta equalize it by hooking to another fully charged battery till both voltages are eqaul and then put it on the charger / Optima,s have a [3]three year free replacment / the sticker punch outs are for the customer / for people that know what there do,ing the month & year is branded in the battery / you can pop out any date you want and if they know how to read the branding they know yer full of SH!T / so dont try that one
 

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BOGGER35 said:
for people that know what there do,ing the month & year is branded in the battery / you can pop out any date you want and if they know how to read the branding they know yer full of SH!T / so dont try that one
There would have to some amount of fudge factor though, because the warranty starts when it is purchased, not when its manufactured. So they must be able to allow warehouse and store shelf time.
 

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i know on my everstart battery i bought for the time being it has a spot for a recept, and it says if no recept is available waranty will be from date of manufacture.
 

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Yeah, the RETAILER, not the customer, is supposed to punch the warranty sticker. Because the warranty starts on the day of purchase. It says on mine "Retailer: Lift out month and last digit of year sold." It is basically foolproof, because you can't "fix" the sticker once it's been punched, and it's void if more than one hole is punched. It seems pretty dumb to me to expect anyone to hang on to a receipt for the life of the battery, because most receipts now are thermal paper, and they fade in a few weeks.

Anyway, regarding slow drains, this is from Optima's web site:

When should I use a Deep Cycle OPTIMA as a Starting battery?

"Deep Cycle" batteries are designed for applications that require deep, repetitive amperage drain, like trolling motors, golf carts, and electric wheelchairs, or RV house power sources. However, there are other applications, called "Heavy Cycling" or "High Cycling", when a Deep Cycle OPTIMA can successfully replace a starting battery to provide longer life and better performance.

In heavy cycling or high cycling applications, a vehicle will pull unusually high amperage levels from the starting battery due to extra accessories or limited alternator capacity. Public safety professionals, such as police, fire, and ambulance fleet managers often find that traditional starting batteries cannot provide adequate life and performance due to heavy cycling. This is an excellent opportunity to provide your customer with longer life and better performance by using an OPTIMA Deep Cycle battery in this type of application.

In any vehicle or equipment that will use the battery only for Starting, Lighting, & Ignition requirements and has a properly working alternator, the OPTIMA Red Top Starting Battery will perform extremely well, often providing up to two to three times longer life than conventional batteries. If the vehicle has few or no after-market accessories and uses a stock or upgraded alternator, the OPTIMA Red Top Starting Battery is the appropriate choice.

Remember, it is possible for the customer to have a completely discharged Yellow Top OPTIMA that will not start their engine; the advantages of the Yellow Top are that it can accept a rapid recharge and it will recover from discharge many more times.

To provide the customer the best OPTIMA solution, it is, necessary to consider both the application and the charging system before recommending the correct OPTIMA. For example, if your customer has a Ford Expedition with an after-market alarm system, which OPTIMA would you recommend? If the customer drives the car every day, the Red Top would be the correct choice, since the amperage drain will be nominal and the battery would be recharged on a daily basis. However, if the customer stores the vehicle for a long period of time with the alarm system engaged, you should recommend the OPTIMA Yellow Top, since the amperage drain over several weeks would damage a Red Top and reduce its life.
 
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The battery plant I worked for made all kinds of batteries. We had contracts for military, train, heavy equipment and specialty batteries. We made the first fluidless batteries for motorcycles. We developed a way to gel acid so in an accident, acid will not spill out when the case is broken.

Most batteries are the same. The differences are minute chemical additives like metals and alkaloids.

Actually I use Die Hards. Six year jobs. Its the one contract that our plant lost because we could not maintain the specs required by Sears. They are predictable. Last time I got some money back because it failed a couple months before the six years was up.

And yes, the retailer needs to date the battery. Some components inside the battery may not be activated before purchase. Batteries usually sell so fast you don't have to worry about shelf life. The manufacturer will stand behind the battery for the life span, you don't need a receipt or need to remember where you got it.

Its the only thing that is just plain dead and unfixable at some point. Its a chemical reaction that produces the charge and it just decomposes over time whether you use it or not. Best advice--Just go and get another one.
 
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