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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to adjust the bands on my tranny tomorrow when I cange the filter. The book says to tighten the screws to 72 in-lbs, but I don't have a small torque wrench. Can I use my regular ft-lb wrench and just set it to 6 ft-lbs, or is that not going to be accurate enough? I've never done this before and I don't want to screw up the tranny.

Thanks,
Matt {peace}
 

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KThaxton is right on about the accuracy of your ft/lb. wrench at 6 ft/lb.. Most mechanics that perform band adjustments routinely, develop a "feel" and use a special wrench, (Short that fits the band adjust screw), and snug it up "just tight enough" and then back off the specified number of turns. I'd try the 6 ft/lb. click of the wrench a few times and see if it feels about the same each time you torque it. Back the adjustment off and observe the play in the band and see if it variew.

Just my .02...

Dave
 

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Most torque wrenchs aren't very accurate down low. I found that out the hard way. Then read the same thing later in a publication somewhere. You can just tighten it up a tad more then finger tight with a wrench and it will be close enough.
 

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I bought the torque wrench and special socket/multiplier years a go when we ordered our trucks but if you have any doubts take your torque wrench down to an automotive machine shop that has a torque tester/calibration unit. That what I used to do years ago and they were always real close. If you dont want to purchase a new wrench you might try renting one also?
 

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I borrowed an in/lb wrench once and it would not fit inside the transmission. Does anyone know what make and model number wrench will fit the 727?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Inside?? I thought the low/reverse band screw was right inside the pan? I didn't get to do it yet, but according to the picture in the Haynes manual, it's right there.. Will it hurt anything or affect performance if it's not 100% accurate? Also, I've noticed that the 2nd - 3rd upshift is really late... Around 45-47mph, and it downshifts around 35. Haynes talks about a throttle valve rod... Is this what I should adjust to change the shift point?

Matt {peace}
 

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TaZMaNiaK said:
Haynes talks about a throttle valve rod... Is this what I should adjust to change the shift point?

Matt {peace}
defintely adjust this it is the kick down linkage

as for the werench fitting I had no problems mine is a in. lbs one from sears ill get the pn# tommorow and just the proper socket 5/16 8 point :)
 

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TaZMaNiaK said:
Inside?? I thought the low/reverse band screw was right inside the pan? I didn't get to do it yet, but according to the picture in the Haynes manual, it's right there.. Will it hurt anything or affect performance if it's not 100% accurate? Also, I've noticed that the 2nd - 3rd upshift is really late... Around 45-47mph, and it downshifts around 35. Haynes talks about a throttle valve rod... Is this what I should adjust to change the shift point?

Matt {peace}
No adjusting the bands doesn't have to be 100% accurate. Close will work. Thats why i said go a tad more then finger tight.
 

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TaZMaNiaK said:
Inside?? I thought the low/reverse band screw was right inside the pan? I didn't get to do it yet, but according to the picture in the Haynes manual, it's right there.. Will it hurt anything or affect performance if it's not 100% accurate? Also, I've noticed that the 2nd - 3rd upshift is really late... Around 45-47mph, and it downshifts around 35. Haynes talks about a throttle valve rod... Is this what I should adjust to change the shift point?
Here is the straight dope from the 1985 factory service manual:
The low-reverse band (rear) adjustment is made INSIDE the transmission after removing the pan.
The kickdown band (front) is made on te left outside on the transmission case.
The wrench I need is one that will fit inside the case for the low-reverse adjustment.

Matt {peace}
 

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I think I know what you're talking about georgeda. I have to use a specific wrench when I adjust that. My Craftsman is too thick around the box end to fit in there. I have an Armstrong wrench the is a lot thinner around the box end. I think you could find several brands of wrenches that would fit, just look for a thin one.
 

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To KThaxton: Do you have the model number of the Armstrong wrench? I don't want to drop the pan and keep trying different wrenches.
 

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georgeda said:
To KThaxton: Do you have the model number of the Armstrong wrench? I don't want to drop the pan and keep trying different wrenches.
I will check tonight when I get home. I do know it is an old wrench, so I hope the model number is still valid.
 

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TaZMaNiaK said:
nd[/sup] - 3rd upshift is really late... Around 45-47mph, and it downshifts around 35. Haynes talks about a throttle valve rod... Is this what I should adjust to change the shift point?

Matt {peace}
Before adjusting the throttle valve rod, make sure that it is moving freely. I had a similar problem with late shifting and it was caused by the fact that the joint connecting the rod to the arm on the trans was starting to seize up from rust. I was able to cure the late shift by spraying the pivot point with WD40 and working the linkage back and forth. After repeating this process and lubing the joint the trans started shifting properly and has been fine since.
 

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I have an inch-lb torque wrench that is made by Craftsman. I use a 4 pt 8mm (5/16 is the same) socket and 3 inch extension to be able to get in there right. I also have to do the same for the kickdown band.
 

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Georgeda
After re-reading your question, I think I misunderstood what you were asking about. I assumed you were talking about a wrench that will fit on the locknut that locks adjuster in place. I guess I assumed this because I know that some wrenches don't fit in there.
I'm not sure why you can't access the adjuster nut though, if you use an extension and 4 point (mine is an 8 point) socket as chrysler300le said it should be perfect. ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
K.C. said:
TaZMaNiaK said:
nd[/sup] - 3rd upshift is really late... Around 45-47mph, and it downshifts around 35. Haynes talks about a throttle valve rod... Is this what I should adjust to change the shift point?

Matt {peace}
Before adjusting the throttle valve rod, make sure that it is moving freely. I had a similar problem with late shifting and it was caused by the fact that the joint connecting the rod to the arm on the trans was starting to seize up from rust. I was able to cure the late shift by spraying the pivot point with WD40 and working the linkage back and forth. After repeating this process and lubing the joint the trans started shifting properly and has been fine since.
Yeah, I found out mine wasn't so simple either.. It turned out the lever was loose on the valve rod, and it was slipping around. Also the adjuster joint was rusted to the throttle rod. So once I managed to break it loose from the rod, I had to finagle the lever off and soak it in a cup of PB for a few hours so I could break the clamp bolt loose. The pivot you speak of, is that the little ball joint? If so, mine is really loose and sloppy.. Are replacement levers available?

Matt {peace}
 

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Yea it does take a special socket to do the adjustments. But that gator grip socket works good if you've already got one. Thats what I used to adjust mine. I also did the 6 ft-lbs thing. But I did it 2-3 times so that I could make sure it was where it was supposed to be.
 

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Yeah, I found out mine wasn't so simple either.. It turned out the lever was loose on the valve rod, and it was slipping around. Also the adjuster joint was rusted to the throttle rod. So once I managed to break it loose from the rod, I had to finagle the lever off and soak it in a cup of PB for a few hours so I could break the clamp bolt loose. The pivot you speak of, is that the little ball joint? If so, mine is really loose and sloppy.. Are replacement levers available?

Matt {peace}
Yes, In the manual the little ball joint is actually called an "adjustable swivel" It's at the lower end of the rod and is held in place on the rod with a set screw ( bolt). I would assume that the pieces are still available from the dealer, but if not the junk yard should be full of them. I'm not sure what you are refering to when you state " It turned out the lever was loose on the valve rod, and it was slipping around"
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The other side of the lever is formed into a clamp, with a nut and bolt (think battery terminal). The clamp part was loose around the valve stem (the part that actually sticks up out of the tranny) and when the lever moved, the stem didn't move all the way. Also, the ball joint I'm talking about is what joins the swivel to the lever. Not the swivel itself...

Matt {peace}
 
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