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my ball joints on my 89 ramcharger need to be changed and i was wondering if i could do it my self or should i send it to a shop to get it done if u have already had it done how much did it cost??
ball joints
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·This is 4wd, right? If you're at all mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself. It does require a ball joint press, a special socket for the preload adjustment, and a socket to remove the wheel bearing nuts. The press can be found at Harbor Freight for about 30.00. The sockets you can get at most any parts store. About 20.00. each. Parts will run roughly 2 to 3 hundred. You will want to replace all the seals, any loose steering components, bad wheel bearings, or worn brake parts. This is one of those things when you do it, do it all. Having to go back in and replace an axle seal that starts to leak when everything is back together can be a real pain.
For a shop to do it, figure on at least twice as much.
For a shop to do it, figure on at least twice as much.
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5,785 Posts
I agree, when you have it that far apart its a bunch easier to replace that stuff like axle seals and steering stuff. But you don't need any special tools to do ball joints. The only special tool I used was the 4wd nut socket. But if you're creative they can be removed without one. I did my 2 lower ones last spring without any special tools and an average at home mechanic wouldn't have. I used a big C-Clamp, big socket set(1" and above), basic socket set, 4wd nut socket, big tuning fork, and a torque wrench. And thats about it. I didn't use a press, thats what the c clamp was for, I didn't use a preload socket thing, don't even know what that is for? Didn't have any problems, other than it took time.
I've took some heat before for how I've done it, but the lower ball joints I replaced have held up fine, granted I only drove it for another 2 months after because the trans blew out). Today I'm going to start the tearing apart the drivers side because my upper ball joint is shot because I had to beat my steering arm off and I hit it on the end of the arm like I WASN"T supposed too...
I've took some heat before for how I've done it, but the lower ball joints I replaced have held up fine, granted I only drove it for another 2 months after because the trans blew out). Today I'm going to start the tearing apart the drivers side because my upper ball joint is shot because I had to beat my steering arm off and I hit it on the end of the arm like I WASN"T supposed too...
If you do a search ( from the board menu) you will probably find what you need in the way of technical information. Try looking here at a post by cooper30 http://ramchargercentral.com/boards/index.php?board=3;action=display;threadid=33602;start=0 You should get a preload socket. If the preload isn't set properly, it'll shorten the life of the ball joints. If you have trouble pressing in the ball joints, you can always take the knuckle in to the local garage and pay a few bucks to get them pressed in. Also try and get a factory service manual.
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19,859 Posts
Due to manufacturing tolerences of the tapered studs on the ball joints and the tapered holes on the yoke, and the fact that the knuckle and the yoke are fixed lengths, you need to be able to compensate for these differences.
The preload adjuster evens up the load so each ball joint does its share. If the adjuster wasn't tight enough, the lower ball joint would be required to hold more than its share of the weight. If it was too tight, the upper would be carrying more weight.
The preload adjuster evens up the load so each ball joint does its share. If the adjuster wasn't tight enough, the lower ball joint would be required to hold more than its share of the weight. If it was too tight, the upper would be carrying more weight.
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111 Posts
The ball-joint removal tool is available for loan at Autozone for free (maybe other chains as well). It is definitely worth having...makes life much easier for both removal and install.
You'll see when you buy a set of upper Balljoints that they come with special 'nut' that has threads on the outside and is tapered on the inside. You screw it into the knuckle, slide the upper ball joint through it, then torque it down to spec. This makes sure that the ball joint is nice and snug. The following will show you a good picture of what the 'nut' and socket tool look like. http://www.cafes.net/epp/23000dwg.html
Ditto what other's said, if you're going to do a job like this than do it right otherwise it would be a total waste.
You'll see when you buy a set of upper Balljoints that they come with special 'nut' that has threads on the outside and is tapered on the inside. You screw it into the knuckle, slide the upper ball joint through it, then torque it down to spec. This makes sure that the ball joint is nice and snug. The following will show you a good picture of what the 'nut' and socket tool look like. http://www.cafes.net/epp/23000dwg.html
Ditto what other's said, if you're going to do a job like this than do it right otherwise it would be a total waste.
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67 Posts
don't forget that when all this is done it should be taken in and have the alignment checked and most likeley adjusted to get the caster and camber in specs. This is were the upper preload sleeve comes in best make sure it is free or the shope will get you coming and going.
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54 Posts
I am in the process of doing mine on an 87 rc 4wd. i bought the tool from harbor frieght 39.99. i spent 3 hours yesterday trying to press the lower ball joint out with no luck. i had the tool really tight using a breaker bar with a 4 ft piece of pipe on it. i it it with a sledge hammer to jar it with no luck. local dealership says the will press them out and press my new ones in for 142.00. just one side. nobody else is even intrested in doing it at all. i have the knuckel off the rc. are there any tricks that i should try. i do have the lock ring off. help
I just done mine. The ball joint only press out one way. I set my knuckle on the garage floor and beat the hell out of it with a BIG ball peen hammer. A couple whacks and it was out. I did use my press to press them back in. Took me all of 1 hour to get them out and back in. These were the first set I had done.
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111 Posts
(3 hours??) The press will get them out easily in 5 minutes with nothing more than a 20" breaker bar. Use the right adapter and remember the joints get pressed from the top down. Sounds like maybe you're working in the wrong direction.
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54 Posts
I double checked and i am pushing it in the correct direction. the adapters are correct. i have done this before on cars with no problem. this one just will not move.
There is an adapter set that Harbor Freight sells that goes with the 3 in 1 press. It makes life much easier when doing ball joints. Before I bought the adapter set, I used a big socket in addition to the adapters to get the ball joints out.
$142 is a rip-off. Try a small, independent garage, there must be somewhere that will quick press them out for you.
$142 is a rip-off. Try a small, independent garage, there must be somewhere that will quick press them out for you.
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