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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1993 Ramcharger Canyon Sport 5.9 gas, I am having a bad engine vibration when I rev the engine in either park, neutral or driving . I have have replaced so many parts including engine mounts (helped a bit) harmonic balancer (seemed to make it worse). Transmission has been rebuilt with new torque converter. It was vibrating before trans was done. New exhaust from Y pipe back, did a full tune up, checked all fuel injectors, did fuel pressure test (which was in spec), and did a compression test (which was good). PLEASE HELP!
 

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pull one plug wire at a time while running and see if any do NOT make it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just did the transmission mounts and what a huge difference. Now there is a very small vibration when I barely hit the gas pedal, it goes away once i push the gas pedal a little harder. Thanks for the reply's, It does not feel like a miss because it goes away. I am thinking maybe IAC or TPS at this point. Whats your thoughts? Thanks in advance!
 

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better diagnostic description required , bad engine vibrations do not go away ( almost) by changing trans mounts . Bad mounts can cause metal to metal contact , and noise , but not BAD vibrations  in park/neutral .  the mags have the plug wires running behind the valve covers in such a way its easy to cross a wire .. SOME manuals have the number 1 on the cap in the wrong place . Double check both . 
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its really hard to explain the vibration I have going on, but will do my best to clear it up. I bought this truck NOT running and when I got it running it went to the exhaust shop (too loud for my liking), I do NOT remember if it had this vibration before I took it there (I towed it). I towed it back home and noticed that I had a odd vibration when I revved up the engine in park and neutral. Then I took it for a ride a week or 2 later and found the trans was bad so sent it to the trans shop. I got it back and then took it back to the exhaust shop and told them about the vibration I had and they said sometimes the turbo mufflers will do that so I had them put the correct muffler on it and it helped very i mean very minor change. So then I changed motor mounts and it helped some, Then did the trans mount and to my surprise it made a HUGE improvement. Now I have a very minor vibration when I just touch the gas pedal I feel it but then I push the gas pedal a little harder maybe 900-1000 rpm (guessing) it goes away. So it only does it just over idle then goes away.  I have been working on vehicles my entire life and never had a vibration like this. I thought it was very weird to change motor and transmission mounts to make this much of a difference (that made it better). I have double checked my firing order several times and everything is correct. I know some manuals are wrong about where the number 1 cylinder is which on the magnum engines number 1 is stated on the cap. This is why I decided to reach out for help.
 

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So it idles smooth, has a vibration when you touch the accelerator then goes back to normal?

Otherwise it runs ok?

Bucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I can feel a minor vibration at idle, but then as soon as i touch the gas pedal it gets worse. When I push the pedal a little harder it goes away. When I drive it down the road it does it when I first touch the gas then goes away. I am kinda thinking IAC which I have replaced with an after market one (ecm had a code, thats why I replaced it but found that the ecm was at fault so got a new ecm). I did keep the original IAC (thinking of putting the original back in to see if it would make a difference), or maybe TPS which I replaced as well (original was bad causing a high idle/stuck throttle). My thing is with the TPS it should be at .5v and this aftermarket one is reading .7v on the scan tool, not too sure if that would make a difference or not?
 

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My whole truck vibrates and it assaults all your senses.
Thankfully I got a new higher powered stereo with a subwoofer, so I don't much pay any attention to the vibrations.  ;D
Sorry I'm not much help here.
These things aren't Mercedes's... thank goodness.  ;D 
 

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miss fire ? pull the spark plugs and look at each , or pull one wire at a time like some one allready said , the one that makes no difference is the one ( or 2 ) with the problem ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the reply's. I do not think this would be a misfire as it does not do it at high speeds or rpms. I can feel a little vibration while in park, but as soon as I put in drive or reverse it goes away. Does anyone else have any more clues as this is getting very hard to figure out. I did pull plug wires while it was running but it was consistent to every plug wire I pulled (they all made the engine run rough). I really need to get this thing fixed. 
 

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exhaust hitting the frame , bad motor mount . rust inside distributor . more ideas . 
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have already done motor mounts, I have checked exhaust and its not hitting frame, and it has a new distributor in it. I have also pulled valve covers and double checked lifters to make sure there wasnt any problems and everything looked good no play or movement in the rocker/push rods. Would a faulty torque converter cause vibration at the low rpm range? When I had the trans done they said they put a new torque converter in it but just wondering if they did indeed replace it or not, it had this vibration issue before the trans was done.
 

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pull the inspection cover and look at the converter ?  It can get frustrating at times , and you have folks like me telling you to check stuff your sure is good , or you already checked , and sometimes you only thought it was good.
IF it were rockers ,  push rods .. those would be causing a misfire  , or a power imbalance that is more noticeable at certain rpms ,( upper end should also make noise )  pull the plugs , look at each for one/two that appear different than the others . while they are out, prop the throttle wide open and do a compression test , a tester is cheap enough and isn't just for one engine brand/size type/use . Allow 3 oomphs per cylinder , write down each's numbers , squirt oil in each run it 'round a few times and do it all over again write down the numbers .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I do appreciate all the help so far, This just is getting so frustrating and usually I never run into a problem I can not figure out. I do know if it was lifters, push rods, or rockers I would have a misfire and should have valve train noise but I wanted to check any way to rule out. I have not herd any noises from the engine what so ever (knocking or valve train noises. I did do a compression check already without oil and cylinders were between 125 and 130 psi, I have also pulled all the plugs and they are all firing (all look the same) and (all newer plugs). I will do the oil compression test if you think I still need to do that?
 

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maybe you nailed it , the converter was NOT changed take a look ...  125 seems a tad low oil helps seal the rings and could get you a different reading ...  did ya ever consider idle circut jets in carb being clogged ? but you say there's no misfire ... so ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will take a look at the torque converter and let you know. Also its multiport fuel injection (no carb). It also has 189.000 miles on it. I am close to the point of doing a motor swap, but want to figure this one out before that process.
 

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its a magnum ? with mag heads ? and has 125 ?  yes that IS low . I saw 1976 and auto thought L/A motor . what is it a 318/360?
 

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dodge82273 said:
its a magnum ? with mag heads ? and has 125 ? yes that IS low . I saw 1976 and auto thought L/A motor . what is it a 318/360?
yep most magnums I have compression tested are between 160-175 psi
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Ok so I checked the torque converter and it has been replaced. Yes its a magnum 5.9 360. I need to do another compression test with a helper and also forgot to hold throttle wide open when I did the last compression test. Yes I have 3 ramchargers 76,92,93 and a couple pickups ( wife says I have too many lol ).
 
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