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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Reversing front leaf spring shackles. In other words taking the shackles from the back and putting them in front and vice-versa. Shouldn't this make the front differential point slightly upward which will in turn decrease driveline angle? Will this work? Anybody done it??
 

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All that work and you'll still have horrible caster. You could get shims that would do the same job for a lot less work. Or fab new front hangers to just drop the front of the spring. You could also machine a thick shim for the right side and cut and rotate the left spring mount. You'll still have bad caster.

If you really have a pinion angle problem, the proper way would be to cut and rotate the knuckles and left spring mount. Then machine a thick shim for the right side that bolts into the spring pack.

None of this should really be needed with 6 inches or less lift. I've run with simple shims on 8 inches of lift, but steering sucks.

Another option is to get a divorced transfer case or transfer case doubler, both would lengthen the front driveshaft and reduce angles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
tv_larsen said:
All that work and you'll still have horrible caster. You could get shims that would do the same job for a lot less work. Or fab new front hangers to just drop the front of the spring. You could also machine a thick shim for the right side and cut and rotate the left spring mount. You'll still have bad caster.

If you really have a pinion angle problem, the proper way would be to cut and rotate the knuckles and left spring mount. Then machine a thick shim for the right side that bolts into the spring pack.

None of this should really be needed with 6 inches or less lift. I've run with simple shims on 8 inches of lift, but steering sucks.

Another option is to get a divorced transfer case or transfer case doubler, both would lengthen the front driveshaft and reduce angles.
First of all, I can't shim this differential because the springs bolt on with studs. Secondly if this is such a terrible idea why are all jeeps built this way from the factory??
 

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76POWER WAGON said:
First of all, I can't shim this differential because the springs bolt on with studs. Secondly if this is such a terrible idea why are all jeeps built this way from the factory??
Along with what tv said. Having the shackles in the front is undesirable, especially off-road. With that setup, as the spring compresses, the shackle has to also push the axle slightly forward INTO the rock or whatever is compressing the suspension, which inhibits ease of overcoming said obstacle. With the shackles in the rear, the axle goes back slightly making it easier to get over the obstacle and makes the ride better.
The Jeep YJ had that setup and it was common practice to do a "shackle reversal". Also, it is an accepted fact that the YJ was the most "ON-road" designed Jeep ever produced.
 

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you can still use shims, they fit between the ubolts/studs anyways. Also have a "loose" mount at the front of the truck would make steering wobbly, you would have to use a panhard bar or something similar to stabilize the front, that is if you drive it on the road. For a full trail rig then it won't really matter.

I had 10" of suspension lift with 40" tires and 1 ton axles on my old camo truck, to fix the driveline issue all I did was use a cv-less front driveshaft. I took a stock rear driveshaft and cut it down to sue on the front. You just pull the stock cv apart and use the part that bolts to the tcase, the rear driveshaft ujoint will fit right in there.

The CV isn't needed on the front because you don't always drive in 4x4, so it usually isn't used.

BTW, when are you gonna come wheeling with us in the TX Chapter? We have a meet about once a month. This weekend we are heading to my land in Rock Springs to do some trail riding/creation. The rig in your sig seems very capable. Come hang out with us, it is always a blast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
RCC_SaMiaM said:
you can still use shims, they fit between the ubolts/studs anyways. Also have a "loose" mount at the front of the truck would make steering wobbly, you would have to use a panhard bar or something similar to stabilize the front, that is if you drive it on the road. For a full trail rig then it won't really matter.

I had 10" of suspension lift with 40" tires and 1 ton axles on my old camo truck, to fix the driveline issue all I did was use a cv-less front driveshaft. I took a stock rear driveshaft and cut it down to sue on the front. You just pull the stock cv apart and use the part that bolts to the tcase, the rear driveshaft ujoint will fit right in there.

The CV isn't needed on the front because you don't always drive in 4x4, so it usually isn't used.

BTW, when are you gonna come wheeling with us in the TX Chapter? We have a meet about once a month. This weekend we are heading to my land in Rock Springs to do some trail riding/creation. The rig in your sig seems very capable. Come hang out with us, it is always a blast.
Well it was just a thought.I really did want to come to your meet, but after my little incident with the trees yesterday I have lots of work to do on the truck. Check out my post in the help section to see my plans.
 

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KThaxton said:
76POWER WAGON said:
First of all, I can't shim this differential because the springs bolt on with studs. Secondly if this is such a terrible idea why are all jeeps built this way from the factory??
Along with what tv said. Having the shackles in the front is undesirable, especially off-road. With that setup, as the spring compresses, the shackle has to also push the axle slightly forward INTO the rock or whatever is compressing the suspension, which inhibits ease of overcoming said obstacle. With the shackles in the rear, the axle goes back slightly making it easier to get over the obstacle and makes the ride better.
The Jeep YJ had that setup and it was common practice to do a "shackle reversal". Also, it is an accepted fact that the YJ was the most "ON-road" designed Jeep ever produced.
another theory I've heard is that with front shackles the pushing of the tire into the obsticle by the spring would increase traction against the obsticle. Makes sence, but is it enough to actually help.

Sounds to me like it would me more work than it would be worth to get it to work right.
 
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