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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replacing my oil pan with a new one on my 360 this weekend and haven't done before.  Planning on removing starter, braces, trans inspection plate and hopefully wiggling pan out without lifting motor.  Aviation glue for gasket and RTV in corners.  Any tips or tricks?
 

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beware of aftermarket pans , look at the little holes that nipples of rear rubber seal goes into , some are NOT punched in correct place ......... sometimes an alignment stud on each corner helps locate pan while ya start a few bolts ..
 

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I had to replace the pan on my 86 w250 and it wasn't that hard.  I removed everything you were talking about but I also removed the brake tee mounting bolt on the front axle so I would move the brake lines slightly when taking out and installing the pan.  What I did when putting the pan back in was putting the cork gasket on the pan and letting the rtv dry so the gasket wouldn't slip off the pan, then putting rtv on the bottom of the block for the top of the cork gasket once putting the pan in.  I forgot what I did about the front and back rubber gaskets, all I know is it didn't leak once in.
 

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When ya get the pan loose, IF the front hangs up while trying to slide it out, rotate the crank before trying to lift the motor off the mounts. Don't think the fit is that tight on the trucks but I know it's a thing ya gotta do on most (old chrysler) cars. The hang up is the front of the pan meeting one of the connecting rod caps. Push the piston up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Couldn't find the one piece Fel-pro for a 1989 360, really wanted that one though.  Got the old one off easy enough but would gladly wait if anyone has a part # for the good 1 piece?  thanks
 

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SidWho? said:
Couldn't find the one piece Fel-pro for a 1989 360, really wanted that one though. Got the old one off easy enough but would gladly wait if anyone has a part # for the good 1 piece? thanks
confirm before you purchase, but I think this is it:

OS 34409 R
 

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SidWho? said:
That's what I was thinking. I'll just stick with the one I paid for.
more than adequate. mine doesn't leak. just careful assembly and it should be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, ran it for couple minutes and it didn't leak (fingers crossed). One thing I would have did different is install the rear seal in its groove on the crank and the front seal after I had wiggled the pan into place, they both fell off on my first attempt and had to hope the rear went into its home. Thanks for the help
 

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the little pointy "tits" on the inner pan side of the rear rubber should be pulled thru the corresponding holes in the pan , and they should lock there .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah, I put a little silicone on the teets and they pulled out when the bottom caught......I want candy ghost bats ;D
 

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2 basecoat shades of kandy paint , some lace curtains with "bats" in the lacework , and , know how , or lots of money ....
hell the materials were lots of money ..... LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well.....second times' a charm?  Got a small leak at the rear seal :(.  Does anyone know if the rear seal goes over or under the pan gasket...or cut gasket flush with seal ???  They definitely overlap and I put this first one UNDER the gasket.
 

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over , hell its the only other option LOL yes and ya want some sillycone in the corners ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I think it swelled up after a few miles....virtually quit leaking but still gonna re-do :-X
 
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