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I came across an old thread here on RCC that someone had used a SunPro CP7985 gauge in the OEM ammeter location.


When I put it in place (My dash has the metal frame, not the plastic one, the studs on the back of the gauge hit/rub on the frame.

I don't think I have enough meat on the dash frame to drill it out, and if I do I suspect the gauge will no longer line up with the cluster faceplate.

Think adding several layers of heat shrink tubing will be enough to isolate it, or will it eventually rub thru?

 

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personally , I would NOT trust it not to wear thru . can the "studs" be shortened ?
 

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I cannot find the pics, but I hooked the wires tot he meter, and then hot glued it in place. But I had the plastic frame. If there is no burrs inside the hole. heat shrink could be enough. I think I would look at something thicker, like vacuum tubing. I would like to see something at least double the thickness of the studs thread. so assuming a 1/4 -20 thread, you are looking about 0.04". IIRC, most heat shrink has a wall thickness of 0.025". So two layers would be just enough to meet my standard, but you still need to look at the metal frames, and be sure there is nothing that can cut right into the heat shrink. So remove any internal burrs on the frame, double thick heat shrink, and hot glue it all in place, you should be good to go. Do not forget to hook the wires tot he gauge, before doing the heat shrink or tubing, and hot gluing. I also tapped into the 12 volt side of the regulator that provides the power for the gauges. It is fused at 2 or 4 amps, which will protect everything.
 

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I remember the same post you are talking about. If I remember right the guy said he had to make the black face larger cause when the lights are on you could see behind the black face of the Gauge. I would like to see a Pic when your done with the lights on and see.
But I think superburban is right. That's what I would do to it. Should work fine if it's insulated good enough.

I was looking at doing this but with all the guages. Would look factory but thwy would all work and then I could use my side gauges for tranny temp and a tach.
 

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I had to bypass my ammeter gauge also. I decided to replace all of my gauges with Autometer. The smaller size fits in the holes of the dash perfectly. The only downside is that you lose the "original" look of the dash.
 

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Hi This worked for me the text is below but I also included images of the installed voltmeter... the thread title is in red...

TRY this link: it works and you also see the images.... https://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/substitute-for-ammeter-gauge-using-digital-voltmeter/msg3450320/#msg3450320

EDDIEK

Re: Substitute for Ammeter gauge using Digital Voltmeter..
« Reply #3 on: July 7, 2018, 09:42:42 am »

2nd Attempt...
I used a new ammeter face. on this 2nd attempt. You can substitute by cutting out a thing sheet of tin also.. I took more time to cut the 4 sides more true. Don't try to make the first cut your final, and it's done.. cut. Give your self enough metal around all four sides.. as you near the final outline that you marked on the face, that will be the opening for the dimensions of the digital readout. I traced the outline of the exact area of the digital readout, and marked that out.
I used the widest part of the face of the dremel cutting disk, and gradually trimmed out the long sides of the rectangular opening. I used the lower part of the cutting disk so the metal fragments and disk particles will be propelled downward ..not upward into your face / eyes. Don't forget to use a mask covering mouth and nose and eye protection.
I then sprayed several coats of flat black pain to to cover over the old ammeter white markings. Next.. on the backside of the ammeter face plate are the internal electric components of the old ammeter gauge, which I removed via needle nose pliers, small metal cutter pliers. I used the dremel to carve away just enough of the support base to mount / support the new digital module. I glued it to the backside using a little Goop, on the left and right side and top, then held it in place using light pressure re plastic clamps to gently hold the digital flush / even with the face plate until the Goop dried.
To re mount the gauge back into the cluster...... The threaded studs of the old ammeter gauge will serve to mount the new digital gauge.. I used a soldering iron to melt a hole in the side of the cluster housing and routed the wires from the digital out. I previously used the studs to use to route the current, but the pin and socket connector seems prone to loosten, as the gauge would cut out and re set.
So routing the wires outside to me is the preferred way to go. I cut the two lines that were inside the wire cluster previously there for the ammeter, I then connected the red lead from the voltmeter to the fuse box, using my fuse cavity number "15" which was never used before. So I had to insert the fuse holding clips from behind, I had two used clips, that plugged right in. This fuse got power by connecting that lead to a "Hot in Run" circuit that can be found in the steering column coupler, located under the steering column.
Refer to your wiring schematic. I also used a probe to positively determine that the intended circuit would be hot ..a "Hot In Run Mode" only. The black lead, I attached to a good metal chassis ground..
P.S. ANother way to monitor voltage might be the below...
On searching that on-line auction, I observed volt meters that plug into a cigarette lighter port which is also seems like a decent solution. EdK

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« Last Edit: August 11, 2018, 02:20:01 pm by EDDIEK »
 
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