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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, 64 amp alternator, there's three wires: a red one, a yellow one and a thicker black one. once they leave the alternator they become hidden in like 10 miles of electrical tape (I HATE the guy that owned this thing before me)

The question: The thicker black wire burned off last night. i was going to replace the entire wire, but where does it go?

do the yellow and red wires go to the voltage regulator?
Jake
 

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DDGRC84 said:
ok, 64 amp alternator, there's three wires: a red one, a yellow one and a thicker black one. once they leave the alternator they become hidden in like 10 miles of electrical tape (I HATE the guy that owned this thing before me)

The question: The thicker black wire burned off last night. i was going to replace the entire wire, but where does it go?

do the yellow and red wires go to the voltage regulator?
Jake
I dont really know what you have? Sounds like maybe this had Lean Burn and he removed it? Yellow wire is supposed to be green and it runs to the VR. The red wire is 12 volt feed and could really come from any circuit when the key is in the "run" position, normally this is from the VR. This diagram may help you with the black wire as we really dont know how it's wired? It shows going to a connector but is it still there? You may have to pull some tape off, especially if you had any burning. You may have other melted wires in the harness.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
aiyee... that is complicated. Was Lean Burn still around in 84? when i bought it there wasn't any Lean Burn in it, but the original motor wasn't there either. i used the ol' multimeter to see where the charred wire went today and it has continuity with a wire at the battery...

Jake
 

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My 84 still had remnants of lean burn when I got it.. SO I kept removing wires and spliced in an older harness to clean it back up.
Aaron Wyse
 

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DDGRC84 said:
aiyee... that is complicated. Was Lean Burn still around in 84? when i bought it there wasn't any Lean Burn in it, but the original motor wasn't there either. i used the ol' multimeter to see where the charred wire went today and it has continuity with a wire at the battery...

Jake
Jake, that makes sense. It's the power output wire from the alternetor. What part of the wire burned off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
burned up right at the alternator... here's the story: i went to a bonfire party last night, my truck was picked to be the jukebox, so the radio played for about 5 or 6 hours and killed the battery. i had to jump off the truck and let it idle (with the 2 electric fans going, mind you) for about an hour to charge the battery back up. when i started the truck this morning i noticed that the voltmeter (sunpro, aftermarket type) was reading right at 12 volts, so i opened the hood to check the voltage at the battery: 12.02 volts. Then i went to check it at the alternator and noticed that the wire had separated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
si, it is just a regular old terminal thing, right? i was going to go ahead, since i have some extra 6AWG wire that is oil and gas resistant left over from my DC-AC Inverter install, and just run a new battery wire. does that wire go straight from the alt to the battery or through something?
 

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DDGRC84 said:
si, it is just a regular old terminal thing, right? i was going to go ahead, since i have some extra 6AWG wire that is oil and gas resistant left over from my DC-AC Inverter install, and just run a new battery wire. does that wire go straight from the alt to the battery or through something?
You could use a regular terminal. the connector I was talking about is the kinda fat black plastic end that sields the connection. According to the wiring diagram that wire leaves the alternator and goes to a multiple splice which powere numerous circuits. We can be sure what you have but that is the way it was engineered. If you look at the wiring diagram just to the right of the VR you will see a junction or multiple splice with 5 wires on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i don't see anything like that under the hood, so what i will do is shotgun it: i'll put in the new wire and if stuff doesn't work then i'll start peeling tape off

Jake
 

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Chump...Did the diagram come from a factory service manual? I will be rewiring my RC this spring and this would help put it all back together. Thanks, Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
hey Chump.. check this out (from another post)

Slanted_Mind said:
I sthis lean-burn or standard electronic ignition?

For lean burn, find the two wires coming from the voltage regulator. One is green, the other should be either blue or red. The blue or red wire is switched 12V (ignition). This is the wire you want to hook the electric choke up to. Trace it back to a convenient spot and splice into it (use high-quality connectors, or better, solder the connection)

i have a green and red i think coming form the VR... smells like it used to be leanburn to me..
 

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DDGRC84 said:
hey Chump.. check this out (from another post)

Slanted_Mind said:
I sthis lean-burn or standard electronic ignition?

For lean burn, find the two wires coming from the voltage regulator. One is green, the other should be either blue or red. The blue or red wire is switched 12V (ignition). This is the wire you want to hook the electric choke up to. Trace it back to a convenient spot and splice into it (use high-quality connectors, or better, solder the connection)

i have a green and red i think coming form the VR... smells like it used to be leanburn to me..
Yep, the green wire has to come from the VR and the VR must have "switched on" power to operate. This power will come from a red wire in the factory wiring harness. The Lean Burn and the "custom modified" backyard mechanic versions may be wired slightly or mostly different. ??? Mopar has used green and red wires for many years on the VR circuits.
 

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ramit87 said:
Chump...Did the diagram come from a factory service manual? I will be rewiring my RC this spring and this would help put it all back together. Thanks, Don
Hi Don, This is a factory wiring diagram for an 84 with Lean Burn. This is a copy of the info at the Alldata site. Keep in mind that each year changes are made and there may be several different engine wiring diagrams for any givin year. The basics are the same but it's the little stuff that might kill you in a re-wire. :)
 

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Thanks Chump. I am already to far into it to turn back and I liked the diagram. I will check the Alldata site out. I am starting from scratch on this. I have the engine/tranny/transfer case out and I have already rebuilt each of them. I have started in on the wiring but it's a little cold and the RC won't fit into the garage. I have done a fair amount of wiring but I like to be as informed as possible and like the diagrams. I plan on trimming all the unneeded wires out and keep it as simple as possible. My main concern is wiring the ignitions and alternator correctly. Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok, new info: got everything in, new alt, new VR (why chance it, i had a spare) and new straight battery cable from the alt.

i fired it up, 14 volts, everything good, but the alternator gets hot quickly... by hot i mean: i can't leave my hand on there for more than about 15 seconds without feeling uncomfortable..

i remember now that the alt was warm like this before... what would cause this?
Jake
 

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DDGRC84 said:
ok, new info: got everything in, new alt, new VR (why chance it, i had a spare) and new straight battery cable from the alt.

i fired it up, 14 volts, everything good, but the alternator gets hot quickly... by hot i mean: i can't leave my hand on there for more than about 15 seconds without feeling uncomfortable..

i remember now that the alt was warm like this before... what would cause this?
Jake
The diodes inside get hot and conduct heat to the heatsinks, which are connected to the alternator body.
I just went outside and did a test on my truck. Temp outside is about 30 F.
Started up engine, fast idle, charging at 14V. Waited 2 minutes, checked alternator body with hand. Cold, barely feel some warmth at the back end.
Turned on high beams, radio, fan on high. Waited 3 minutes and checked again. Barely lukewarm at back of alternator.

If yours is getting that hot, you must be drawing current someplace. Make sure everything is turned off.

For the hell of it, disconnect the field wire from the alternator. Then start the car and see if alternator gets hot like before. If it does not . .. clip on the field wire with jumper and see if alt gets hot.
If it does, then you have some unusual load on.
See what the VR sensor wire voltage is while engine is running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
ok, tried that. here's the story:

red wire: 13.5 volts.
green wire: 9.6

ran it with the field wires off: didnt get warm at all. as soon as i put em on, the engine immediately dropped revs (sounded like it had to work, so big load on the alt) and the alt got warm

Jake
 
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