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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey,
Looking for any good info or old thread on removing all the old air pump lines and any type fixes for plugging the exhaust manifold air pump connection?

Are there any ideas on how to make the exhaust manifold/ air pump "plug"/ cap??

Back Ground:
One of the lines that ran to the air pump(driver side), air pump not working nor ever had since I bought back in Nov 17, has already broke, thanks to me, from where it connects to a cross pipe that runs between the exhaust manifold on the back side of the motor.  I now have a approximately quarter size hole near the distributer, so I figure just remove the rest of the line(s) that are not even being used.  I guess I could plug/ wrap the hole with some type of high temp rubber hosing, but why not just get rid of all of it? 

I imagine there are some old threads in here, but my " search" expertise is lacking....

ALSO: For the those other RC owners, do 1987, w/ a 360, auto.,4x4, normally run hot in the engine bay?  After driving around for about 30 minutes I can barely touch the hood to open it without gloves? Normal?  Engine temp is normal, just the ambient air???

Any advise or direction would be appreciated...

Thanks

Joel
 

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Remove every thing having to do w/ air pump to cat and any vaccume lines, plug any open vaccume ports. If the line has a fitting that threads into the cat find a plug same thread.if not chop it off and weld it up.unbolt the two metal lines from the back of both exaust manifolds,chop the tubes off that teardrop piece  weld them up closed,bolt back up using permatex copper gasket maker. Not the spray copper the stuff in the tube. Done o and dont forget to put back the aluminum  spacer for the air pump because those bolts will be to long ,put a ittle bit of that same gasket maker on the threads of thoes 2 bolts closer to the bolt head.😎
 

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  If you can get to the holes in the intake, tap them and put in a threaded pipe plug. The intake may have to be removed to do this.
  Second option is to make a small plate and bolt it over the hole. I did this and it worked fine. I made and small teardrop shaped piece and used some copper high temperature goop like you would use on a header.
 

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What are these holes in the intake you are speaking of????
 

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I think he meant exhaust manifold.
 

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I hope so ,or we could just move on to blocking off the EGR but then again if the EGR is working properly it is actually better off left in place and usually gives you better gas mileage.
 

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Sorry, I meant exhaust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks All for the replies... Appreciate them... Will look at the options...

Short term fix:  I just put a piece of heavy rubber hose over the opening. I lined it with some exhaust tape and aluminum , then clamped into place...will see.

Joel
 
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RE Exhaust Manifold port leak and EGR block off plate:
Re my 1985 318, I had some corrosion / leakage from the driver's side exhaust manifold "emissions pipe" port that receives the air injection from the smog pump. Since I am in FL / no emissions inspections.  I searched a local yard and found older exhaust manifolds, I believe from a 1980, (minus those ports).
I installed them along with an EGR block off plate from the same mill. Of course I pulled the smog pump, and related lines. 
 

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If I had to deal with emissions my inspection sticker would be a smiley face holding up the middle finger.😎
 
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They are so misleading, back in the 90s ..I bought an 84 BMW 318I for $800 from a coworker....It passed the hydrocarbon emissions, but burnt about a quart of oil each month..  from leaky valve seals.  Since FL didn't disqualify re burning oil..I always passed..  Aside from that it had three sensors for many basic systems. an over engineered piece of crap. I was always fixing something.  I unloaded it actually at a profit even after the repairs.. and I bought the 84 RC that I use now just for fun. It is so rugged. I've had it since 2000 My only complaints are that the stock high back bucket seats seem to have weak supports, I replaced mine. The other design issue was the ammeter gauge, my 84 was of the later design and didn't seem to have the over-heating issue. If I could be confident about a replacement AC system, I would do that, have it repainted. I did have head work done on it years back and don't have any computer systems to worry about. With a working 135A AC system, and the simple engine and trans, the thing should last another 15 years. It's not a daily driver. I don't plan to sell ..the grand kids like it..  Think it's cool.  Good Luck with your project.. 
 

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