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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
88 5.2 TBI running good for last couple years. Started shutting down randomly but only for seconds. Tried to start one morning it stumbled and wouldn't fire since. Had fuel, then no spark. Had spark, then no fuel. Replaced coil, plugs, Hall sensor. I now have fuel, Fire, and Air. Still no start. Number 8 cylinder flooded. All others dry. I'll try to do a compression test on Friday but I couldn't even get a backfire or a stumble. Ether no help. Plugs new and clean. Originally showed codes 17, 37, 52, 55. Only 17 and 52 significant. Any takers? School me.
 

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trouble with any fuel injection , which a throttle body is ( 2 injectors ) , you can have wet spark plugs from droplets of fuel , which will not fire , only a "spray mist" will fire . You have to start some where , so first thing I'd check is fuel pressure , because if its too low , you don't get fine spray ya get droplets .  if that's ok I'd move on to the pick up in the dizzy , wiring ( the connector on the valve cover pass side ?) and or the asd relay ..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Asd new, district cap and rotor new, "camshaft sensor"(hall effect sensor, it's an 88)new, all plugs/wires near pass valve cover cleaned and checked. Battery disconnected to reset ecm. Spark on all cylinders, 38 lbs from fuel pump and both injectors spray. Don't know how to check pressure regulator except to pull off and clean out, done. All back together, turn key, fires for 1 revolution, then nothing. Just turning over. I've been wrenching on these 80s dodges for over 30 years. Been driving this one for 7. It's a 90 pickup with engine and all wiring from 88 ramcharger that ran great but rusted out. Why would it fire for 1 revolution then not unless I take out all the plugs, reset the computer, and try later, only for it to do the same thing. Wow, this things killing my brain.
 

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To check pressure you need to T-in a fitting at the throttle body area so you can see what the pressure is with the regulator in the circuit. It should be 15. 38 psi seems a little low at the pump. Those things can usually do 50+. Compression test does seem like a good idea as you suggested. My other thought is maybe a jumped timing chain.
 

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yes. if it jumps you would have had slack in the chain too. you can check for that by moving the crank pulley back and forth while watching the distributor rotor (there would be lag). You'll need an assistant for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow, guess we can put this in the solved file. 252684 miles. RIP. Highest cylinder pressure is 90 lowest cylinder pressure is 30 everything else is 40 to 70. Time to find another motor...  thank you greatly for your time and suggestions. I'm sure you'll see more of me on the site. I had been snooping around this site for years by a different name but it's been so long I didn't even remember my username/password so I just re-upped. Thanks again! :)
 

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timing chain ? if it was running ok , then quit one morning . The shut down deal isn't because its wore out .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
252k+ miles, oil consumption 1qt per 45gals gas. Why, you really think it's just the timing chain? Heck, maybe I'll pull the timing cover and find out. It would buy me some time so I could rebuild the other one I have in storage. Any other opinions? Suggestions?
 

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Bamarama said:
252k+ miles, oil consumption 1qt per 45gals gas. Why, you really think it's just the timing chain? Heck, maybe I'll pull the timing cover and find out. It would buy me some time so I could rebuild the other one I have in storage. Any other opinions? Suggestions?
nope. This is a good plan if the chain jumped.
 

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less than 100 dollars + some time , or                    yes its decision time how is the rest of the truck , what can you get for it running v/s not running , can you make it run ( is it just the chain ?) ( likely) etc etc .. best of luck with it , really .
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll drive this thing for a while to come, it's just a matter of what to fix next. Cost of a timing set(if that's the problem) and an afternoon would be worth it for me.
 

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I'm bettin the low comp and the almost started , then nothing , it's a skipped tooth or 3 of the chain , the intermittent shut off/run is wiring or something like that ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sorry it took a bit to get back on this one. Inlaws in town delayed futher work for a few. 82273 you were dead on. Timing chain had jumped 2 spaces. New timing set for 25 and back to normal. Now it's time to ready another motor since I've bought some time. Should I go stock '88 tbi 5.2? or very slightly modified carb 360?
 

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Bamarama said:
Sorry it took a bit to get back on this one. Inlaws in town delayed futher work for a few. 82273 you were dead on. Timing chain had jumped 2 spaces. New timing set for 25 and back to normal. Now it's time to ready another motor since I've bought some time. Should I go stock '88 tbi 5.2? or very slightly modified carb 360?
"ToxicDoc you were dead on" - You're welcome.

Changing to carb is pretty expensive for the minimal power benefit you would get imho, plus you would lose some fuel efficiency, etc
 

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yepper I wasn't the first LOL we've had it happen to us so...we agreed ..  NO I would not keep the throttle body . IMO that is the same as the later carbs with all the emissions stuff added to them , it was a learning experience for the industry as they progressed to MPI ( magnums )  So I'd either use a MUCH older carb set up w/ ecm ( NO puter)  OR a full ON magnum motor and ALL its wiring and puter ( PCM).
 
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