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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Good idea!  I read all your threads but somehow missed pics of that tool.....I have a pile of old bearing races I can use to make that.  Thanks.

EDIT: Got a new Prior 3700282 brake booster in today and I can finally get the truck inspected.  This one is tight and has NO leaks.  This is also the 5th one i've tried this month- 2 junk A1 cardones, and 2 junkyard ones. Re-man in US too
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Tested the intercooler today b/c the boost gauge was acting funny.  Good idea b/c it had a huge leak in the upper DS corner and a ton of smaller leaks.  More than 10. 

Will be trying a intercooler from a company in alabama and chnaging the hot side boots out as well as they have deteriorated.  Leak there, too. 

Also starting to chomp at the bit on a BHAF and exhaust as I got beat by a drunk acting suburban last week and was not happy-  its gotten worse since the 5.9 in the 88 too.  It has made the 92 and 93 look like dogs (they are).
 

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A good radiator shop might be able to patch your intercooler.  I've been told by big truck manufacturers that there is an allowable leakage percentage from the factory.  So unless you are holding zero pressure it may be passable.  Just my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
I called around after the place in alabama sent me a CAC with 2 3/8 inlets/outlets.  No luck yet.  Still deciding what to do- have a custom one made, buy a core and have 2nd gen tanks welded on or buy a junkyard one.  Found 2 other companies that make OEM replacements but they are pricey and I'm gunshy now, taking a bath on the shipping.
Anyway, got a 2nd gen CAC/pipes today and it doesn't even leak despite the corrosion.  Can't get over the difference between the 1st and 2nd gen size wise. 
EDIT: 2 3/8 intercooler pics above, in post 101
 

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I have a 2nd gen intercooler, pipes, turbo, boots and 24V intake horn on my '91.0 core support that I am using on my '85 crew cab.
I had to hole saw out the core support and grind away some of my grille from behind for it to all line up and fit.
PM me if you need any intercooler parts or pieces there jerseybud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #106 ·
Thanks 12v.  I scored a 1st gen california intercooler locally.  No leaks or corrosion!-but it was warped.  I think eventually I will order a core from Bell intercooler and have the 1st gen tanks welded on that.  One advantage the 1st gen cooler has is that the inlet/outlet is centered on the tanks unlike the 2nd gens at the bottom.  Apparently that makes a difference and the flow is uniform.  I also though about having custom tanks welded to a 3 inch core to up the surface area.  but maybe I should take care of the injectors, bhaf, ip and exhaust first :)

Anyway, got a new hot side reinforced hose for a an arm and a leg to replace the cracked one.  Because of the automatic trans cooler, I'm stuck with a 31 inch wide, 12 inch tall core, but can go thicker. The CAC from alabama had a awersome core with 1/2 inch tubes, but the tanks were pathetically cast.  Gotta be offshore.  If they get the tanks straightened out, it would be a screaming bargain.
Bottom line is I gotta learn to TIG weld.

Driving it around since install, boost kicks in sooner and doesn't bleed off as fast.  Maxes out at 17 still.  Turbo whistle is louder too.
 

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I used that same company to get the 2 1/2 inch to 3 inch custom intercooler boot to NON intercool my '89 Ramcharger project.
It is a nice boot, but spender than I expected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Got some work done before winter
Painted extended cab silver portion b/c the clear was oxidized down to the primer.  Also put new pinstriping back on - 1/2 inch olympic blue which really pops. 

Still have to have injector set re-popped, paint other side and rear cab, and fix leak on rear axle.  Panic stop this summer must have knocked something loose, b/c the side with the spindle sleeve is leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
So between blizzards and while the roads were free of salt, i took it ot the dump and heard a new rattle.  Sounded like valvetrain noise and scared the hell out of me.  After spome head scratching, I determined the vanity plate over the valve covers was vibrating and the front hole had been enlarged after 25 years of vibration.  Sounded like just a rocker arms coming apart.  Checked oil pressure anyway and was relieved.
This was warm with 15w-40 rotella and 299k miles on it
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
So I noticed a leak on the crossmember this summer and it looked like PS fluid.  Finally settled for a reman pump and installed it.  No problem, though it still has no power assist if its below 50 degrees out.  I'm guessing the box is a little worn after 300,000 miles.  Also replaced KSB switch, so now it idles when cold out.

It did have a PS fluid leak but its also leaking diesel out the back of the injection pump- It weeped when I got it and sealed up after the TC3W oil, but its obvious now.  Gonna be taking that side of the engine apart and doing the tappet cover, which is also leaking, and the 3200 spring and fuel pin from the hungry diesel.  Maybe this winter, most likely next summer it gets a new tranny and covertor-finally-  Its absolutely pathetic how much it slips- just ridiculous.  Our 1983 w150 with a slant six towed better than this as it stands. Engine revs but convertor slips.
 

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there is a ton of good reading on patc's web site about the 518 etc. trannies , even reading alone the parts listings, what the updated part does for the trans , and an article about a fellow there's own cummins tranny , his cohoice of updates , and reasons for each .... found that while looking thru the parts section too ... just saying ... its worth a lookie see ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #112 ·
You're right about that.  I've been looking at stuff and devising a plan since I got this.  Already running  their (sonnax's) billtaccumulator piston. Not impressed with the prices for the suncoast/BD trannys.  Unsure whether to have a local guy do it, or me do it.  Def will be doing convertor and valve body
 

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FWIW, I'm planning to run a Hughes 15 XFM in my next 1st Gen auto...
 

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who to do ... yes your decision you gotta make . I will say this , over the years as an AG and heavy equipment mechanic I did a few 727's , along with many Cat/Case/John Deere  automatics , if you have good attention to detail , know what wear looks like ... and a book ( even an exploded parts book picture that is correct) and a clean bench ( not wooden either ) they are not that hard to "do"  a 727 rebuild kit usta be under 100 dollars .... bought at the same place the rebuilders by one ,  now it looks like 200 ta 400 today ...  me , after heart attack , I'm NOT doing as much , ball joints , about as far as I want to crawl anymore .. so patc did my last rebuild , a local garage got talked into swapping it , a "stock" rebuild cost under 2 k delivered , while local trans shops want close to 5 k to do the whole job ... ( !! ?? )  you can talk to the tech at patc , call 318 742 7784 after 1200 eastern time . I chose a 1400 stall lu converter , I like the difference ,( MUCH less heat ) would consider even slower mag has enough grunt . but I'm old .... and drive like it these days LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
Finally put a exhaust on this thing after 10 years- and only because the chipmunks filled my OEM muffler full of acorns and I thought the trans, brakes and rear axle were failing simultaneously.  But seriously, the racket that 40 acorns make in a muffler at full throttle is amazing. 
Anyway, got a diamond eye with a muffler.  Of the 4 junctions, only one went together without resizing it with a pipe expander.  Had to buy a pipe expander at 160 bucks!  Used their hangers at the muffler but welded a oem style tang on the tailpipe to keep factory style mount.  Aint no way i'm drilling a hole in the frame for their hanger. 
I cut the end "bologna slice" style- better looking imo than a big ass tip.  I wrapped the down pipe due to its close proximity to the heat exchanger/trans lines/frame.  Very precise fit

So other than bad pipe ends, I guess I'm happy.  Muffler is quite loud, will need to try a different quieter muffler.  I'm gonna use the original 3 inch system to fab another catalytic convertor as a spare for the 88/92/93.  Perfect bends for that!
 

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When/where is the exhaust loud?

My happiest tailpipe direction is rearwards. I find the sound bounces back more when it comes out the side. (i.e. buildings, barriers, etc). I run a partial DE 4" kit without a muffler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
Truck was loud above 1500 rpm or so- heavy drone. Been using it to get ton bags of fertilizer and it was getting old and I was wearing earplugs.
Ordered the 51 inch monster from diamond eye- only aluminized which bums me out, but no one makes a good quiet stainless muffler.

did this between fixing the tedder this afternoon. need to fab new hangers. factory ones dont work because muffler is too long. Notice the funky inner workings of the muffler. Hope it lasts
 

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