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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Cleaned, ground, sanded, primed and painted the spare rear end today.  The spindles were pristine, just needs new brakes on the drivers side and a pinion seal and good to go.
1. Took me all day to clean it- combo of needle scaler, grinder, flap disk and sandblaster.
2. Then epoxy rpimer
3. Then epoxy paint or caliper paint on the drum
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Thanks skwerly!

Last week i picked up some 1992 f250 wheels cheap and these are nice because they are a generous 16x7, instead of the 16x6 stocker that pulled the sidewalls in so much on my 265/75/16s that the rears were riding on the very middle of the tread even at low psi.  I figured that was dangerosu in a low traction situation or panic braking scenario, so today I swapped them out because I read they were a direct swap.

Ironically, I did not put the dynabeads back in and did not balance the tire/rim this time and it seems smoother. Go figure. 
Pic 1- 50 bucks for 4 rims
Pic 2- You gotta change the lugs nuts because the lug holes are bigger.  The Ford rims need a big "cone" since these are lug centric.  On the left is the nuts I got at the JY off two chevy astros  8) In the middle is the oem dodge lug nuts off the 92 and right is the stocker. 
Pic 3- Close up showing the chevy lug nut and that the hub register is about 1/8+ bigger than the dodge rim
Pic 4-All the dodge trim rings and hub caps popped right on.  In fact they fit better than the dodge rims.....Backspacing is same for all intensive purposes

Drove it afterward towing hay wagons- Way less crown now and more contact.  Once I got the tire pressures back to where they were it felt great. (tech had one tore at 90 psi!!!!!)
Only disadvantage I can think of is the rims weigh more and with these monster lug nuts, the unsprung weight goes up.  As more dodges hit the JY, I'll gradually transition to the dodge lug nuts, but no way am I paying 80 bucks for 32 lug nuts from chrysler or napa
 

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Looking good -- and a good/cheap solution for those wanting a wider wheel!

As far as lug nuts go -- I've never purchased any in-town as prices are absurd. On my '83 crew cab and ex-'93 W250 I purchased nice, new sets of chrome acorn lug nuts on eBay (seller lugnutguys both times) for less than a dollar a piece shipped so I'd imagine you could find a deal too with a little searching. {2cents}
 

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huh, that's interesting!  I don't think i was aware that Ford/Dodge bolt patterns were the same. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
From what I've read the good ones were on 1990-1999 ford trucks.  After that Ford went to the metric bolt pattern and no dice. 
There was no way on heck i putting spacers on this thing to run dodge wheels, no matter how nice the newer 5 spoke alloy wheels look. 
They guy also had a set of same era Ford Alcoa wheels for 100 bucks.  They were painted and needed to be stripped but I thought long and hard about those too.....
 

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I'm also running the Ford 16x7's on my club cab. Couldn't beat the price for $10 a piece at the pick a part. They were already dismounted and lying in the back of the van they came off of. Just a quick wire wheel and a few coats of rustoleum white. I used the lugnuts from a '90 3/4 Ford I had lying around. Figured they would fit right in with my frankenstien front axle. Dodge D44 with Chevy disc brake conversion. Might as well throw something Ford in there to round it out.  :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Did the heater core today.  The PO did it in the winter of 2010-2011 and the heater box was severely cracked as a consequence and when the truck was warmed up, all you could smell in the cab was antifreeze.  Got really annoying in the fall with the windows up.
I guess I'm reluctantly switching to r134 also.  The AC has never worked although the compressor was cycling- its just noisy now.  Nobody around here does r12 anymore.  I'll unplug the compressor until I save up for a kit and then chnage the compressor, expansion valve and dryer at the same time.  Word on the street is the hoses need to be redone as well. 

A couple things:
1.  the replacement core is a spectra brand.  They give you foam in the package, b/c if you use the OEM foam, the cover for the HVAC box won't fit- thats why the case was cracked from  the PO- gorilla force in cold temps.  OEM core is on the top.  There was no visible leak to explain the antifreeze odor so i'm mildly concerned about if I wasted my time today or not.
2.  I did the deck port mod from one of the diesel sites- now I can clean out the HVAC box easily after the leaves fall
3.  The evaporator is a NOS one I scored on ebay last spring for 25 bucks.  8)
4.  I took the best foam doors from the spare boxes and used the box I got from the JY for the 92.  Its perfect, no damage.
5.  Only leak I could find was at one of the junctions where the hose goes into the condensor

I really hope the ECU hasn't failed causing all the AC cycling issues.....

Almost forgot. Last pic shows the wrench and magnets I put near the battery for emergencies.  Its 1/2- 9/16 combo.  I copied the idea from Jim Lane on another diesel site.  Fire extinguisher is great for the fire, but disconnecting battery power if its a short is good too.

EDIT 7/20/14-  vacuum controls are not right- need to fix
 

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:eek:  Dang man that's a lot of work! Nice job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Yeah, heater core took me longer than the springs did, which I put in today.

Took 4 weeks to build, 1 week to ship. Very expensive, don't know I would do it again......But i can fix 2 trucks with one set of springs.  Gonna clean, paint and put new bushings in the old springs and put them in the 92 when I put the dana 60 in.  I am not looking forward to that with all the rust...

Anyway, the springs were perfectly sized and had the poly sliders on all the leaves.  I thought they were supposed to have the uhmw-pe liners as well near the center bolt but these did not.  The stockers had those nice zinc interliners.  Started at 7:30 am and finished at 6 pm.  Gained 3/4 inch lift on the DS and 3/8 on the PS. 

Nothing was seized, everything came apart easy.  Only problem (if you call it that) was that the new u bolts I bought from a reputable company were bigger than the stockers. I had to drill the spring plate holes out with a 5/8 drill so they would fit.  I also ground away some casting flash on the bottom of the housing on the PS where it interfered with the new bolt. 

Worst part of the whole day was getting the frame bushings out and putting them back in.  PS slowed me way down. I took the exhaust off the turbo, cut a clamp and was able to push the exhaust up and get the shackle out no problem.
I drove it late this afternoon and it is riding better.  Not night and day but you can tell the difference and the spring eye is no longer touching the frame.  Can tell the difference without the steering stabilizer as well, which is off permanently.
I'd been planning this since I got the truck and finally got one of the last major issues fixed.  Only things left now is saving up for the engine side of the AC workings, and the eventual transmission/torque convertor overhaul.

1 week later EDIT- springs settled another 1/2 inch this week, back to where I started at.  BUT spring eyes are still not touching frame which was the purpose of all this in the first place
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Had been considering replacing and painting the DS fender and DS door b/c of dents- also considering re-painting the silver parts on both sides because of peeling, rust and just getting everything to match.  And then I saw the truck below.  I love this paint scheme.  It looks like gold from a 98 dodge, maybe lighter, like Louisiana used to use on some state trucks. What do you guys think?  Keep it stock or go with the gold?  (if I repaint it, I can't fix the AC this year))

Does anyone recognize this truck?

EDIT: May be original 1992-1993 champagne metallic with a little more dark to it.  Toyota pyrite mica metallic is in the ballpark too.  Really pops in the sun.  Hyundai has a close color too- mocha bronze. Some generic cashmere metallic might do it too.
Subaru Tungsten metallic or 2004 toyota lunar mist metallic looks like the winner
 

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  I like that gold better than the silver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
I went the easy way and just got regular old Chrysler silver.  Finished the fender today and door is next.  Chances are I'll run out of good weather to do the cab sides and bed.
I've been working on this fender off and on since april.  Needed some holes welded up, dents hammered out and quite a bit of wet sanding. No striping this time- I learned my lesson about metallics the first time....
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Finally got time to replace the bushings in the throttle linkage and fix/adjust some other things related to it.
1.  PO put a sheetmetal shim for to correct for throttle linkage wear (I think).  Hopefully I can remove this after all this work...
2.  Kickdown linkage was wearing into the rod.  Had to throw some weld on this and grind it into a close approximation of a circle.
3. Linkage was also worn at the stops, both the lever and the bracket.  Threw some weld on to remove the 1/16-1/18 free play from stock
4. After I threw some weld on and filed it flat....
5. Also replacing the throttle lever ball joints- they ones on there now feel pretty good.  Someone had replaced the bushings and thorttle linkage lever before me.  Good thing too because the lever is no longer serviced.  Can only get the bushings for it, which are plastic and wear out fast appararently. 

Doing all this took out most of the free play in the linkage- well worth it.  Ready for another 300k miles.
 

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Man that crew cab is sweet. Yeah I agree with Cheddar, the gold is nice.

I have to do the heater core in the Snow Commander asap. non-A/C truck. What did you use for the access hole? I will be putting a/c in the crew cab when I do the cummins swap.

As far as the 134R change over. I was told to just change oil, vac the system, and fill with the 134r. The lines are fine but change the O-rings at the connections.  {noclue} You can still get the R12 but you pay out the butt for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
I used a 4 inch deck plate from the local marine store.  Easy to find in this locale, being on the coast...Could only find white and had to scuff it and used VHT epoxy flat black to paint- and it stuck well.  Used a 4 inch (i think) hole saw to cut the hole. 
On a non-AC truck, I just use that access panel that slides up and down to clean things out. 

As far as 134, i am under the impression that if the hoses are used, they are ok for 134 but if new or NOS they will leak thru the rubber. Seems alot of guys are having trouble with high compressor pressures at idle because of 134 and the small-ish condensor, though the rumor is one of the aftermarket condensors is designed just well enough to get by....Consider using freeze 12? which is a r12 substitute.
 

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Matt Critcher just did his truck with the freeze 12. He said it is propane and something else, I can't remember. And I can't remember where I saw it at either. I know I'm no help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
finally bought a gauge for the gauge pod after 2 years.  Autometer boost gauge. Truck pegs out at 16 psi and cruises at 2-3 psi at 60 mph on flat surface. Don't know whats normal............

Also bought a 47rh today as a core.  Apparently, its a stronger case (pic 3) for one of the bands.  Its needs a rebuild big time.  My plan is to use this case and rebuild using steel planetarys, 518 input, the 518 valve body and converter (but aftermarket , like a dtt or suncoast).  Thats quite a ways in the future- 2-3 years.  Have the option for lockup now, too.
 

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Rebuilding them is pretty straight forward... you will need a selection of snap ring pliers, feeler gauges and this special tool to take apart and put together the OD (in a bench press ideally):





I used two front bearing shells from my '76 and the three 1 ft long by 1" wide by 3/16s thick strips of metal.
Don't use the ATSG manuals, use the FSM instead.
It's much more detailed and way closer to the real world (aka the trans torn apart in a bazillion pieces on your workbench).
 
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