To use these seats with Ramcharger pedestals there are some problems:
1) The pedestals have a curve in them whereas the PT cruiser sliders are flat. I shimmed with washers to get it snug.
2) I had to grind some notches in the very rear of the RC pedestals to put the rear bolts in the PT seats.
3) The ridge on the rear of the passenger side pedestal interfered with the seat when you moved the seat back. It limited the rearward movement although the seat physically bolted up.
4) Despite the cradle, the seat still wobbled too much. It didn't feel sturdy
5) The pedestals put the seats very close to the doors-and I am not cutting my perfect floors. I'm not a big guy but I felt very uncomfortable that close to the door and it was on both sides. I guess I'm a victim of driving bench seat trucks my whole life. This was the deal breaker.
I'm much happier on long drives with the way it is pictured above- my head is perfectly centered with the steering wheel.
If you want pics of anything let me know.
Well how close were they to the doors? If about the same closeness as the factory RC buckets now i could live. Im not a fan of the factory 86 buckets i've got..arent really comfy, and dont recline i cant sit straight up without my messed up back hurting. Btw luvvin your interior, gray is the best..but a bee-otch to keep clean.
Measuring from door handle to mid- groin, its 11.5 on the 93 with the RC seats. I forget the measurement at eye level. My feeling was that the RC seats should be 3/4 to 1 inch further inboard to line up properly with the gauges, wheel and to be comfy resting the left arm on the door arm rest and right arm on the seat armrest
I think they are like this stock, as the dodge vans I was in were the same way and they used the same seats. It may also just be a personal preference thing. if there is a JY near you, I would try to find a RC and sit in it and reference your position.
I've never been in Ramcharger buckets- they looked comfy, but the PT cruiser seats ARE comfy, or at least better than the bench seat. I was reminded of this today while driving the 88- the bench seat can wreck your back- it makes me slouch. The good news is the reason I was driving it (in the slop- ugh) was to pick up this below:
Its a 1992 Dana 70 with 90k miles on it- 3.54 gears. Popped the cover and it looked great- no rust and the magnet was pristine. Its an open rear end whereas the old one was a limited slip. That's the only bad part of this deal. The reason i bought it was after the fiasco last spring with the re-bearing I knew eventually the whole thing was going to need to be rebuilt. That and one of my previous pics during the rebuild shows the PS race was rotating/chattering in the case. It wasn't bad, but for what I paid for this new one you can't even buy a bearing kit for it, let alone a ring/pinion. Its nice to power thru the mud with the LS in 2wd but this will be my towing rig. I just need to get the tranny/convertor set up, get the front springs/bushings replaced and do the headliner and it should be done.
Thank you. Its tough to do anything big with the cold weather but it was awesome today. Local JY junked their plow truck last week and I've been going crazy. It was a late 1993 W150 with a 318 and 46rh with 74,000 miles (its a shame- it was junked because the + battery cable pulled out-easily fixable- the whole thing was in good shape- nice bed, no roof rust, low miles, had been painted at one point). I pulled the side molding and the perfect interior trim, including the headliner. Then was walking around and found they had a PT cruiser in with the leather seats, but the PS seat on this one had an armrest. Discovered you can't just pull the hinge, the whole seat back had to go. Long story short, I now have a PS armrest, perfect body side moldings and a crack free interior moldings. And the 92 has a new headliner. They also had a 99 come in with a nv4500. It had lots of miles on it- I was contemplating a tranny swap for the 92....
If you look closely, you can see the DS and PS seatback do not match but it was close enough.
As a sidenote, the 1993 regular cab headliners used a cardboard backing, very different from that yellow laminated stuff on the earlier trucks. The yellow stuff always seems to let the material sag but they fit the contours much better on the roof.
Just read your entire thread. Its amazing how much work you've put into this truck. She's gonna last a looooooong time (or at least through the apocalypse ). And let me just say, I love what you did with the interior. I'm going a slightly different route on the sound deadening (LizardSkin), but the fit and finish of the product you laid down looks slick. Keep us up-to-date on your future fixes!
Right now its just a slip fit. It came with a 3m adhesive strip (the kind you pull horizontally to remove if it ever needs to be removed) and 4 small plastic rivets. To put the rivets in meant drilling the top piece of the OEM cover so i just slipped it on and drove off. I'll probably use the 3m piece when I get a gauge for it. The 3m strip, rivets and instructions were in the box with this pod.
Hard to believe I've had this for a year now.
I've been doing some research and started in on the headliner project today. The old headliner was separating from the foam and had cigarette burns in it. Note that this is the fiberglass style headliner backing. The 1993 regular cabs had the cardboard backing. This was a PAIN to get out. Its much longer since its a club cab- I contemplated removing the back window to get it out b/c I was having to bend it quite a bit. Getting it back in may be tricky.....
It was also 1/8 thick or so foam and most aftermarket headliner material is 1/4 or 3/16 and I wasn't sure the interior molding would still fit with a headliner that thick so I had to do some searching. This company fit the bill: http://www.miamicorp.com/products/HEADLINING.aspx
Only place I could find with 1/8 headliner. Their computer pictures are horrible, but the scan of their colors here is pretty close: http://www.miamicorp.com/customer/micorp2/images/sample%20cards/1-8%20HDLG%20Card.jpg
I'm waiting on samples right now.
In the meantime, I drilled 3 holes in the roof (see last pic) and sprayed some fluid film in the nooks and crannys so that hopefully this roof never rusts. Note the location of the holes- if you drill too far forward, the oil will only go under the reinforcing panel. To get the oil above that panel and where the rust starts, the holes need to be about 6 inches back from the windshield (For Gods sake use a well measured step drill or a rugged drill stop when you drill those holes unless you want a sunroof!) I chose oil because undercoating has an odor and traps moisture. I suppose the 3M body schutz stuff might work or the john deere heavy black plow blade protectant as well but honestly I love fluid film despite the price. There will be a odor however until the solvents escape.
I filled the holes with body plugs from a 88 or later dodge tailgate and found a ridiculous deal on Eastwood Thermocoustic 1 sq ft squares and tried it for the roof. Stock roof just had some oil impregnated paper for sound proofing. I left it because they glue they used was pretty tough.
I put the new squares in strategic places. Its just ridiculously heavy stuff but seems to make a difference. Its the only thing I felt had enough adhesive power to stay put on the roof. I had enough to do the 92 and 93 today.
I did not do the 88 b/c I am welding a new roof in that eventually. I'll use Frost king FV 516 http://www.lowes.com/pd_28929-1410-FV516_?PL=1&productId=1081449
for the tranny tunnel on the 88 and 92 when I get around to it. Its a closed cell foam but only reflective on one side. Only Home Depot carries it around here. I may stick with the EZ cool for the rest of the floor since that is double sided reflective.
I'll post how I did the headliner when I get the material.
2/23/12- Scored a pair of RC buckets from a 89 this week. Don't know why i got them. I think they are blue as I bought them at night and missed a couple of cigarette burns and was off on the color. They were cheap though. I'll use them for something. They are "cushiony"- you sick down into them whereas the PT seats are more firm.
Also finally got the color close for the headliner. I used "phx2001 Alpine Graphite" from Miami corp. I included a pic of the new headliner, the trim and the old headliner showing the fade line for reference.
First, the sound deadener was cheap b/c it was made in China. Apparently they make 2 types with 2 prices .
Finally got the headliner in. This is something I should have done when it was warmer out. I used 3M 8090 spray adhesive (heavy) and went thru 2 cans and could have used part of a 3rd. This was tricky to work with as the tack time was way off from what I was used to too during warmer months. It soaked thru in several inconspicuous places and took quite a while to set up. They are not joking when it says it can be 4-30 minutes until it adheres. Anyway, I'm glad I went with 1/8- it has lots of clearance in places but its tight in others. I'm sure you could get away with 3/16. That's about the last thing that was left to do in the interior. The new hitch, new front springs/bushings and a new PS spindle/bearings are the only things left on the list +/- a new convertor and rebuilt tranny.
I also took a comparo shot of the PT seats and the RC seat.
Thanks fellas, its been sitting since I did it and there is still no sagging.
Got a new hitch for this thing. I went with a Reese 45005 Class 5 with a 2.5 inch receiver. It fit well but there are some details left out in the instructions. They say to use a 1/2 drill but the holes were too small so I used a 9/16. I had to drill 4 new holes in the frame. They also included spacers to clear the rivets for the spare tire crossmember, but since mine were ground off already by the PO I did not use them and mounted the hitch flush to the frame, like instructed for the 94 and up trucks in the instructions.
This hitch is farther forward on the frame than most are. i followed the instructions to the letter and the ball now sits about 2.5 inchs farther forward than the hitches on the other trucks. i don't think this will be a problem but it may lead to more bumper rash when backing up to things. I presume this location was necessary to increase the weight rating, which was the highest I could find. It also has side reinforcements, as pictured.
The other thing about it was the 2.5 inch reciever. Hard to find around here, but there is an adapter also. I'll get a forged one eventually for it.
Last thing is, wave goodbye to your spare tire location because I can't see how you could get the J hook to work. As it is, I'll be fabbing a tailpipe I think.
This should work alot safer than the bent, welded old hitch with the washers pulled thru the holes
EDIT: the hitch sits farther forward because its a 2.5 inch reciever. The corresponding 2.5 inch ball mount is the proper length longer to make up for being under the truck more. if you use a 2 inch ball mount and the adapter, it will be really close to the bumper.
Its been a while since I posted last. Did another oil analysis and things calmed down some. Why the PO did not change the oil after the brand new turbo and was running it like that is beyond me....I assume the silicon is from when I did the KDP?
Paint on the frame has a couple spots where the rust is coming thru. After seeing how well the epoxy primer is doing on the 88, I'm a believer for the next time.
Also took it for a long drive down 95 a couple weeks ago and got exactly 20 mpg empty at 65 mph. Should do better than that with narrow tires. I'm about done with this stock torque convertor....
Still need to get the front springs and bushings fixed, then the tranny/TC
8/25/13 EDIT: Did an inspexction today and saw the front tires wearing on the outside edge- the toe-in was off by 3/8 inch. Adjusted and I'm kinda shocked by how things changed. Thtas what I get for being in a hurry changing the tie rod end last year.
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