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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got a 360 with a brand new radiator and I've noticed some annoying behavior this summer/fall.  When idling temp climbs to 220+, I've never seen 225 and going down the road it runs right at 200.  The vehicle has always had a flex fan in it.  Would a clutch fan do better in this situation?  I do have a good shroud.  Is 220 to high?  Should I just push my alarm light up to 230F?  Am I worrying about nothing?
 

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I read somewhere that a V8 should be running 2 electric fans if that is the route you want to go. A water pump powered fan robs your power so a clutch fan would only rob power when your running hot.
 

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Heavy duty clutch fan. I struggled with all sorts of cooling problems trying to run electric fans etc. I have a factory fan with a shroud and heavy duty clutch and have excellent cooling.
 

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220 is not too hot for a pressurized system , its why you don't open the cap on a warmed system .A clutch fan , a working one is better , and while "old style" is all ya need ,  its not designed THAT long ago , they used engineers "back then " same as now ....  remember the t stat controlls the "low" temp limit , not the high , unless its "bad" 
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK, T stat is 192 and I know it's working perfectly.  I can watch the temp rise up to about 195-198 and then drop off when it opens up, stablizes right around 198 on a hot day rolling down the road.  I assume that fan clutch and fan blade are easily available?  Are there better/worse ones?  Anything to look out for when installing them?
 

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fan clutch readily available (RockAuto). For a fan I had to buy used. Make sure you get the correct rotation, Magnum fans are reverse direction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, one last question.  Where do I need to worry about engine temp?  230F  220F  250F?  At what point would you just pull over and shut down?
 

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...I recently discovered that there are three versions of fan clutches - OEM, heavy duty, and severe duty - you can basically tell the difference visually between them by the number and depth of the cooling fins - the SD units have very deep fins and more of them. Internally the OEM clutches at about 60% of rpm speed, while the SD units clutch up to 90% - I'd opt for the Hayden 2797 severe duty unit.

Check out this thread at reply #1310, http://ramchargercentral.com/rcs-tds-durangos-etc/more-of-my-87-daily-driver-added-rear-hatch-pic/1300/

The parts stores have SD units that 'match' the Hayden units but aren't actually a Hayden unit - not sure if it makes any real difference but if you go to a parts store and ask for a Hayden 2797 they'll most likely have a SD unit from another mfg. Don't know if there's a quality difference so maybe just order the hayden unit from rockauto or amazon etc.

- Sam
 

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gremlinmt said:
OK, one last question. Where do I need to worry about engine temp? 230F 220F 250F? At what point would you just pull over and shut down?
In theory the temp doesn't matter as long as the coolant doesn't begin to boil nor blow something due to excess pressure. Water can stay liquid at very high temps, but it requires very high pressure.

Most automotive systems are limited (pressure wise) by the radiator cap. It's the designed safety link.

Bucky
 

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here is a better way to word the question. At what temperature will you start to feel the engine losing power?
 

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Mad Max said:
...I recently discovered that there are three versions of fan clutches - OEM, heavy duty, and severe duty - you can basically tell the difference visually between them by the number and depth of the cooling fins - the SD units have very deep fins and more of them. Internally the OEM clutches at about 60% of rpm speed, while the SD units clutch up to 90% - I'd opt for the Hayden 2797 severe duty unit.

Check out this thread at reply #1310, http://ramchargercentral.com/rcs-tds-durangos-etc/more-of-my-87-daily-driver-added-rear-hatch-pic/1300/

The parts stores have SD units that 'match' the Hayden units but aren't actually a Hayden unit - not sure if it makes any real difference but if you go to a parts store and ask for a Hayden 2797 they'll most likely have a SD unit from another mfg. Don't know if there's a quality difference so maybe just order the hayden unit from rockauto or amazon etc.

- Sam
There is also the version that does not have a thermostat, it is supposed to disengage at highway speeds, and engage at idle, basically doing the same thing the flex fan claims.

https://www.haydenauto.com/fan%20clutch%20tutorial-part%201/content.aspx
 

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gremlinmt said:
OK, one last question. Where do I need to worry about engine temp? 230F 220F 250F? At what point would you just pull over and shut down?
The typical info given is 230 worry, 240+ creates damage. The issue is that 240 isn't the actual head temperature but that at 240+ most coolant mixes start to boil. Local areas in the head then get bubbles/gas and no coolant, so it gets hotspots that are MUCH hotter and warp metal.

https://www.engineheattabs.com/faq
"For gasoline engines, the typical application produced in recent years will have a temperature range of roughly 195 to 220 degrees F. This is considered "normal" operating range. A gasoline engine can be considered to enter into overheated conditions at 230-240 degrees F, with serious damage starting to occur around 250+ degrees F."

http://knowhow.napaonline.com/your-car-temperature-gauge-system-read-it-right-save-your-motor/
"you should keep in mind that anything over 240 degrees is starting to get worrisome."

http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/227
"As temperature of an engine exceeds 230 degrees Fahrenheit, the engine is overheated. Above 245 degrees Fahrenheit, damage may occur."
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow, lots of good info here.  I've ordered a flex-a-lite 6 blade 18" clutch fan and Hayden regular duty clutch.  I stared at the heavy and severe duty clutches for quite some time but I'm not towing and I'm not having problems except at extreme idle.  My current flex fan is only 15" across, pointy tips, and I've had it for more than 20 years.  It's probably time to replace it.  I'm also not having real problems, having never seen more than 225.  I'll push up the temp on my warning light and hopefully see better idle cooling.  If that still doesn't get it done, I'll get more serious.  Thank you everyone!
 

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While I wasn't having any overheating issues, once as a preventative measure I added a "sump tank" to my cooling system, via the heater hoses... This increased my coolant capacity from the normal 3-4 gallons up to 15. I had a inline hand valve that I used to control flow. Worked perfect.

Bucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I installed the new clutch fan today and thought I'd share my experience. I've attached a picture of my old flex fan. It's only about 15" across. The new fan is this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076N8NV5H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
with this clutch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C3BAYA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I took the shroud loose and just pushed it towards the engine to make it easier to access the bolts. I didn't loosen belts or anything. The center hub on the water pump kept everything lined up while I removed the old fan and installed the new. Clutch length was the same as the old spacer so no weird problems there either.

After install I turned the wheels into the curb, set the parking brake and put it in drive. I let it run while I put the tools away, washed my hands, talked the wife into going to the brewery for a pint, and fed the dog. Call it 25 minutes. Normally after 25 minutes of idle (the engine was already warm), I'd have a 200F temp and roughly 90F air intake temp. Instead I had 70F intake temp and 195F water temp. The engine temp was in the throttling range of the thermostat. Heavy traffic downtown with lots of 5-10mph creeping. Engine temp running 192-195F. Unless something changes, I'm calling this solved.
 

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Congrats - all solved
 
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