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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the dreaded vacuum line coupler disease. It has completely fallen apart, after turning into a gooey chunky mess of course. The vacuum lines are just hanging there, although the hard connector piece on the control side seems to be intact. The problem is that there are seven control lines, and I only could find 5 a/c box lines. I can Y it if I need to, and get the air going to where it is supposed to, but which ones go where???

Someone have a diagram, that shows which colors go to which line on the control side? It would be nice if they were all color coded in the truck, but most of the control lines are black.,,,,Cruisin
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Or just take a pic of your intact one, showing each side? I could go from there, and then find where the extra 2 control lines go to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
NM, hit the junkyard and found two of the control harnesses, and cut them behind the colored line connecting point. Should be no problem now. I know I am missing a line now, though. I'll have to dig around and find it. No big deal for that though. Thanks for looking!,,,,Cruisin

Dug a bit, and found the black engine vacuum supply, was pulled back to the glove compartment. That's going to be fun to get routed back where it belongs.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just thought I'd update, even though NO one answered, lol. I have "COOL" air blowing out of the vents. Not cold, since I am still low on 134, but it is working at least. I'm not sure why the clutch will not turn on? Maybe it's still too low to make the low pressure switch turn off? Anyways, just a bit of happy news for me this evening.,,,,Cruisin
 

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I had posted the diagram on here about a year ago... Give me a day or two and I can get it again if anybody else needs it.

I just got a vacuum extension out of a junkyard. I widened the holes with a dremel and siliconed the hard colored
lines in there.

Did you check the wires on back of the a/c control going to the compressor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I got two original connector sets, from that part, and may go back for some vacuum pots for the controls on the box. Hell I may just grab a whole used suitcase, and cut down on rebuild time. Just throw the new one in, with new evap and heater cores already installed. One day this thing will be like new, but till then I gotta keep plugging away it it, piece by piece. Have not checked the wires yet. I will probably dig a bit more into it, but first see if more 134 will make the low pressure switch work like it's supposed to.,,,,Cruisin
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, any help on possible reasons for the clutch STILL not engaging? I have just over 25 on the gauge, after three bottles of 134. It blows cold air, but only when you manually engage the clutch with the battery? I traced the wires from the clutch to the low pressure switch, and the low pressure switch is new. What other wires are there in the harness, and do they pass through the dreaded bulkhead connector? I hate electrical diagnosing, and am no good at it. I can hook up a high powered stereo system no sweat, but am lost when it comes to this harness tracing and troubleshooting. Oh well, gonna give it a rest for a few days, and see if it leaks at least. Then maybe I will start digging into the wiring.,,,,Cruisin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey, there's something I had not thought of doing yet. Thanks! My neighbors don't share my enthusiasm for glasspack mufflers, hehe. I will try that in the morning before I leave town, and post back. With all these jumpers I am making, I need to buy more spade connectors!,,,,Cruisin
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the vacuum diagram, also. I hope it helps anyone else going through the same problem. I was just kind of in despair over the refill not changing anything. MAN, it was nice to feel cold air coming out of those dusty old vents though!!!,,,,Cruisin
 

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This article is from www.ackits.com :p


Minimum requirements for converting a system to R134a.

If system has any refrigerant R12 left in the system it must be reclaimed by an approved recovery machine.

Accumulator/drier must be replaced with an R134a compatible replacement. Conversion fittings and label must be added to the system. Label should have the amount of R134a used and quantity and oil type listed. If vehicle is not equipped with a high pressure cut off switch it must be added.

That is the required minimum! Flushing the system to remove the mineral oil and debris should also be done. R134a and mineral oil do not work well together so leaving it in the system with R134a is not recommended! O-rings should be replaced with either NBR or HNBR replacements. Adjustment of the pressure cycling switch may also be needed to achieve the best performance. In some cases an upgrade of the condenser may be required to achieve the original performance.

There are many different suggestions when charging a R12 system with R134a. System must be evacuated before starting the charging procedure. I suggest you start with about 70 percent of the original R12 charge and add an ounce at a time until vent and pressure readings reach the best available results. Remember it is easy to over charge a system with R134a so patience is important.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, the retrofit was done by my Dad, and it has the label, etc. I'm not sure what got replaced though. Looks like nothing did to be honest with you. Everything looks like 1986 vintage. Later on down the line, I will let a shop do it. Just wanted to drive it in comfort for this year, after I get it inspected. Thanks for the advice.,,,,Cruisin
 

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Make sure you have at least the same total amount of freon in it as the sticker says and you might try a small bit more. I need to recharge my 77 PW but I think I am gonna just get my EPA Certification and go with the original R-12. This R-134 conversion stuff appears to be a nightmare on some vehicles.
 
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