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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry it's not a Dodge question, but you guys are so good I figured someone might be able to help...

My son is in Las Vegas NV and hasn't been there long enough to have a knowledgeable bunch of friends, and embarassingly enough he isn't much of a mechanic.  His Explorer is acting as if the ignition switch has died (accessories all work, lock cylinder appears to be OK, no fire to primary when turned to run or start, starter will spin if jumped etc.).  Does anyone have a manual page scan, jpeg or pdf of the location and replacement of the switch?

Wouldja please email it to me at [email protected]?
 

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I had a '95 mustang with this problem.

Problem ended up being that I had bought the car with just a "spare" key. 2 years later, come to find out, it had a factory security system that works with the transponder keys.

Ironically enough the factory module was dying and had only "worked" (by not allowing me to start car) maybe 4 or 5 times.  ::) I should have never been able to start it, let alone drive it for thousands and thousands of miles w/o the security key.

My fix was simple, I unplugged the module and jumped the "starter in" and "starter out" wires. Module even had a nice printed schematic printed right on it, just in case any car thieves wanted to know how to hot wire it.  ::)

Fords of the era DO have an ignition switch problem, but I tend to STRONGLY avoid replacing any part that I have not proven to have failed some series of tests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bud, It's pretty hard helping him with the diagnosis by phone and email from New Mexico, but I forwarded your comments for his reference.
 

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with the furds they still turn over just wont run
 

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DODGEBOYS said:
with the furds they still turn over just wont run
No they don't. That's the fuel pump [inertia] kill switch. Many have a starter kill switch add on which is different. It is a separate box under the dash on older obd1 vehicles and built into the pcm of PATS obdII vehicles.
 

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email me for wiring diagrams
 

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Vehicle Application: 1998 Ford Explorer 4.0L, Vin X, Eng Cfg V6 

Customer Concern: No crank condition with no power to the Yellow/Light Blue (Y/LB) wire at the starter motor solenoid. 
Tests/Procedures: 1. Check fuse 24 (7.5 amp) of the instrument panel fuse box to verify it indicates battery power when the ignition switch is held in the Crank position.
Also check fuse 5 (50 amp MAXI) of the Power Distribution Box (PDB) to verify that it is not missing, blown, or making poor contact to its fuse holder.

2. If fuse 5 is ok and fuse 24 shows power in the Crank position of the key, remove the Start Motor Relay (Relay 6) and swap it with the Blower Motor Relay (Relay 9) in the Power Distribution Box (PDB). If the engine cranks over, replace the relay.

3. If the engine still does not crank, jumper the PK wire to the Tan/Red (T/R) wire of the Transmission Range (TR) sensor connection to bypass the TR sensor and check for the engine to crank. If the engine cranks, inspect the connection of the TR sensor and replace the sensor as needed.

4. If the engine still does not crank, verify power is present to the TR sensor on the PK wire from fuse 24 with the key in the Crank position. Service the PK wire for an open circuit as needed.

5. If power is present to the PK wire, remove the Starter Motor Relay and verify that power is present on terminal 30 from fuse 5.
Also check to verify that either terminal 85 (or 86) has power with the key in the Crank position, and that terminal 86 (or 85) indicates to be a good ground for the relay.
Install a jumper between terminal 30 and 87 to verify that the starter motor cranks. 
Potential Causes: Circuit
Connector
Missing Fuse
Open Fuse
Starter Motor Relay
TR Circuit
TR Connection
TR Sensor

Diagnostic Codes: None 
 
Average Reported Mileage: 104405 



Confirmed Fix Summary   

Confirmed Fix 1 -  Engine Wiring Harness
1 -  Fuse #24
1 -  Starter Wiring
1 -  Wiring



Confirmed Fix Details   

Tech  Reported Fix Details  Confirmed Fix

December 30, 2008  1998 Ford Explorer, 4.0L, Vin E, Eng Cfg V6 *
Connected Engine Wiring Harness
- After testing we finally found the main harness not connecting at the firewall bulkhead, cleaned and repaired. Engine Wiring Harness 

March 19, 2010  1999 Ford Ranger, 4.0L, GAS, Vin X, FI, Eng Cfg V6, USA/Canada *
Replaced Fuse #24
- Found fuse # 24 of the instrument panel fuse box blown. replaced fuse and all working ok. Thanks Ron Summers Fuse #24 

December 01, 2008  1998 Ford Ranger, Super 4.0L, GAS, Vin X, FI, Eng Cfg V6 *
Adjusted Starter Wiring
- NEW STARTER WAS INSTALLED AND STARTER WIRE TERMINAL ON STARTER WAS TOUCHING ENGINE BLOCK AND SHORTING INGNITION FUSE 50 AMP, RELOCATE STARTER TERMINAL, REPLACE FUSE, CONFIRMED FIX Starter Wiring 

October 09, 2006  1998 Ford Explorer, 4.0L, Vin X, Eng Cfg V6 *
Replaced Wiring — The PK wire indicated to open between the #24 fuse and the TR sensor. A new circuit was ran between the two points to bypass the open circuit.
104,405 miles 


 

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Vehicle Application: 1994 Ford Explorer 4.0L 

Customer Concern: Intermittent false activation of the perimeter antitheft system. The headlights and parking lights flash on and off, the horn honks, and the starter won't engage. The customer just wants to disable the system. This is a Ford factory antitheft system. 
Tests/Procedures: 1. Locate the antitheft controller module. It is behind the driver side rear quarter trim panel, above the rear wheel well. The module is the second module forward of the rear washer reservoir (the first one forward of the reservoir is the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) module), and is below the 4 Wheel Drive (4WD) control module (if equipped). The module has two 13-terminal connectors.

2. Disconnect both connectors from the module. Locate the Red/Light Blue wire in one of the connectors. This is the cranking voltage input from the ignition switch. Connect this wire to the White/Pink wire next to the Red/Light Blue wire in the other row of terminals. The White/Pink wire is the trigger wire to the starter solenoid. Make this connection permanent, and leave both connectors disconnected from the module. This should bypass the antitheft system, and allow the vehicle to crank normally from the ignition switch. 
Potential Causes: Anti-Theft System — Successfully bypassed the antitheft system using this procedure.

Tech Tips: Don't attempt to use this procedure on model years after 1994. 
 

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Vehicle Application: 1995 Ford Explorer 4.0L 

Customer Concern: A no start condition. The engine will not crank over. 
Tests/Procedures: 1. Check fuse #24 in the interior fuse panel.

2. Go to the Anti-theft Relay and check for power on both the Red/Light Blue (R/LB) wires while cranking.

3. The Light Green/Purple (LG/P) wire should be grounded by the Remote Antitheft Personality (RAP) module. If it's not, the THEFT system is active. If it is, should be getting 12v on the Pink (PK) wire while cranking.

4. If all of the above test OK, and there is no power on the PK wire, replace the relay.

5. If there is power on the PK wire from the relay, and it still does not crank, check the PK wire at the Transmission Range (TR) sensor.

6. In park or neutral, there should be power out of the TR on the R/LB, which then goes to the starter relay. 
Potential Causes: Fuse 24


 

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Vehicle Application: 1994 Ford Explorer 4.0L 

Customer Concern: The engine will not crank over. It is an automatic transmission. 
Tests/Procedures: 1. Verify power to the clutch jumper located above where the clutch pedal would be if it had a clutch, on the Red/Light Blue (RD/LB) wire from the ignition switch when the key is in the start position.

2. The RD/LB wire changes TP sensor Pink at the clutch jumper and goes to the Transmission Range Sensor (TR). At the TR sensor, verify there is power at the Pink wire when the key is in the start position.

3. If OK, check power out of the TR sensor on the R/LB wire that goes to the starter relay. If there is no power, check to make sure that the TR sensor is properly aligned. Replace the sensor if it is installed properly and there is no power out on the R/LB wire.

4. If OK, check for power on the same R/LB wire at the starter relay when the key is in the start position. The relay should energize at this point and deliver voltage to the heavy gauge wire to the starter and crank the engine over. Replace the relay if it does not energize.

5. If the relay does energize, perform a voltage drop to the starter. If the voltage is OK at the relay but low at the starter, replace the starter cable.

6. If the voltage to the starter is good, replace the starter. 
Potential Causes: Defective Starter
Defective Starter Relay
Wiring Harness

 

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Is their an anti-theft light coming on? 
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No anti-theft light...

Thanks a bunch DB.  I'll forward those steps and see if one of them works for him.







SMOKEY NOTE:  Loose connections fixed, THANKS GUYS !  It only has 316,000 miles on it...
 
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