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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got it running and steering after sitting for 2 years.  Seemed very low on power.  Son says it has plenty when warm and it did seem to pick up as it warmed.

Where to start?  I've had car diesels but first cummins.  Different world.
 

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Run out the old fuel while using some seafoam in it to clean up the crap. Then put new fuel in and see where you are at with it.

I would change the fuel filter after you get done with all of that too. Algae in the fuel will clog the filter.

If you are still not happy you can sell it to me.  ;)
 

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I'd start with new fuel filter first. Might have gotten clogged up sitting for 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The fuel filter is a good idea, of course, should have thought of it.

But, it started right up, barely had to crank it and my son says it "always" did it.  Of course, for all I know, he never changed the filter either.

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seems the TPS module is not physically bolted down.  Always wondered what that square thing was and where it went, but son said "it runs fine" so, never pushed the issue as he was driving it to work and play every day.

He also says he installed some "fuel pin" which I have not researched.

Plenty of time to sort this out, but I would like to get a handle on what might be going on.
 

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joea said:
Seems the TPS module is not physically bolted down. Always wondered what that square thing was and where it went, but son said "it runs fine" so, never pushed the issue as he was driving it to work and play every day.

He also says he installed some "fuel pin" which I have not researched.

Plenty of time to sort this out, but I would like to get a handle on what might be going on.
That TPS controls the O/D in the trans. The fuel pin he is talking about goes in the injection pump it has a "steeper" angle to it so the pump pushes more fuel faster, and there is a clock spring that holds it down that you can do 2-3 extra turns to so the pin moves faster. There is also a 3200 governor spring you can put in that allows the engine to rev faster. Then you can do a 5* pump twist to advance the injection pump, and a small fuel screw turn will really wake that thing up. I did all of this to my 93 and what a difference. Still getting the same MPGs with more power.

https://us.bddiesel.com/collections/dodge?variant=30073644974144
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
mopar65pa said:
That TPS controls the O/D in the trans. The fuel pin he is talking about goes in the injection pump it has a "steeper" angle to it so the pump pushes more fuel faster, and there is a clock spring that holds it down that you can do 2-3 extra turns to so the pin moves faster. There is also a 3200 governor spring you can put in that allows the engine to rev faster. Then you can do a 5* pump twist to advance the injection pump, and a small fuel screw turn will really wake that thing up. I did all of this to my 93 and what a difference. Still getting the same MPGs with more power.

https://us.bddiesel.com/collections/dodge?variant=30073644974144
I'll check with him to see what he did besides the pin.

So, I probably do not need to worry about the TPS then? It will just keep it from going into overdrive?
 

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joea said:
I'll check with him to see what he did besides the pin.

So, I probably do not need to worry about the TPS then? It will just keep it from going into overdrive?
Yes it will not go into O/D without it on the pump. that's not a good thing, max speed is 55-60 with 3:55 gears.

It take 2 allen head bolts to put it on the pump. Then you need to adjust it from underneath to get the voltage correct.

If you look at the injection pump you will see a tube on the side with a wire attached. That is the cold start fuel solenoid. Check to see if that wire is attached, and if you are getting 12V to it. If not you will also have the same symptoms as you have now until the engine warms up.
 

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mopar65pa said:
If you look at the injection pump you will see a tube on the side with a wire attached. That is the cold start fuel solenoid. Check to see if that wire is attached, and if you are getting 12V to it. If not you will also have the same symptoms as you have now until the engine warms up.
^ This was my first thought for sluggishness when cold.

I could be wrong, but i believe the a518 works just like a basic 727 when the computer or TPS is taken out of the picture.
 

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u2slow said:
^ This was my first thought for sluggishness when cold.

I could be wrong, but i believe the a518 works just like a basic 727 when the computer or TPS is taken out of the picture.
Yes no O/D
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the additional info.

Apparently this has the fuel pin and "governor spring" installed, and he never did the fuel filter.  So that is first on the list, then the cold start solenoid and TPS.

Probably be a week before the filter shows up, most likely a WIX from Rockauto.
 

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joea said:
Thanks for the additional info.

Apparently this has the fuel pin and "governor spring" installed, and he never did the fuel filter. So that is first on the list, then the cold start solenoid and TPS.

Probably be a week before the filter shows up, most likely a WIX from Rockauto.
{cool}
 

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the TPS was likely loose from whoever installed the fuel pin. TPS doesn't effect power.

does it feel like it is not building boost till it warms up? i know 4x4KLOWN's 1 truck feels like that but i am pretty sure the pump needs to be adjusted. almost feels like it takes about 20 minutes of run time before you really start hearing/feel the turbo building boost. 
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Warm today so I went out to change the fuel filter and check a few things.

The TPS "nylon adapter" is missing, there is no way to couple the TPS to the linkage.

The fuel filter is a NAPA unit, but the connector  for the water separator sensor is hanging free and feeling around on the drain does not discover any plug or pigtail to connect to.  The water in fuel light works normally, that is it goes on when "waiting to start" and goes off after a second or two.

I can get the sensor from Rockauto, either Dorman or Stardard Motor.

The "adapter" is another matter.  Any sources or part numbers?

I will wait to order the sensor as it will be a spring time deal anyway, unless it warms up again.

As far as the boost question, I don't know.  I was being very tender with it, sitting all that time and being unsure of the steering and brakes.  And being on a bumpy gravel road, having no plates on it now.

 

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water in fuel sensor .... not really necessary , a maintenance indicator that should never light up , like a low oil pressure idiot light , you never want to see one "on " .......... when ever you change a fuel filter , remove it full , and then slowly pour the "fuel" out , you can actually SEE any water , it would be at the bottom of the filter , a fuel filter with a drain valve at the bottom , can be drained of the very bottom where the water "lives" every so often ... air and fuel filters on a diesel should be changed as often as the oil filter , or more ... different brand filters will often be slightly different in that drain/water sensor area . Some are spot on same as oem some aren't... the "other thing" about diesel and fuel filters , bio diesel WILL make a whiteish clear wax in the pleates of the filter , glogging it .
 

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I'd recommend just removing both the WIF sensor and fuel filter heater, and here's a link to a write-up I have in the diesel section that might help -

https://ramchargercentral.com/diesel-talk/'de-computerize-your-dodge'/

...and this is the pertinent section regarding the fuel filter and WIF sensor:

Fuel Filter Heater. Fuel is critically important to any engine, especially true for diesels. Having clean, warm fuel is important as diesel fuel flows much better when warm, and can get thick (and even gel up and not flow at all) if very cold outside. To that end, the factory utilized a simple fuel heater element. On the early 12 Valve engines, the factory fuel heater looks a lot like a hockey puck with two little wires sticking out of it. It is attached to the bottom side of the cylinder head via a dual-thread fitting, and the fuel filter attaches to the heater, at the bottom of which is the Water-In-Fuel (WIF) switch/drain assembly. However…as is the case with the factory PCM, the fuel heater element and WIF sensor are also becoming extinct, and there are no new versions being reproduced. We have taken a good hard look at the actual 'requirement' for the factory fuel heater and WIF sensor, and have determined that fortunately...neither of them are necessary.

When very cold diesel fuel can 'gel up' and can actually prevent fuel from flowing. This happens because wax crystals inherent within diesel fuel has solidified and clogged a port. Heating the fuel helps eliminate fuel gelling. But, the wax collects at the bottom of things, not the top, so having the fuel filter heater at the top of the filter actually provides very little real benefit. If the heater was at the bottom of the filter, it might help some, but that's not where the fuel is drawn from - it is drawn from the top where the fuel circulates through the cylinder head just after coming through the mechanical the lift pump. In practicality, the cylinder head does a much better job of heating the fuel than the factory fuel heater ever could.

There is a very simple conversion that makes everything simpler, and is all on the shelves at local parts stores. First, detach everything associated with the fuel filter/heater/WIF sensor assemblies and discard. Next, installed into the cylinder head is a dual-thread nipple - this is what retains the original fuel heater unit to the cylinder head and also which the fuel filter screws onto. Remove it, and replace it with another similar, shorter nipple, Cummins nipple #3925954. Next, thread on a WIX #33472 or NAPA #3472 fuel filter (or your preferred equivalent). These newer filters have a built-in water trap, and by simply performing normal water draining procedures at every oil change (open the drain and let a couple seconds-worth of fuel...and any water trapped at the bottom...bleed out) you'll never have a need for the factory WIF sensor or dash light. When complete, the fuel filter will now be directly attached to the cylinder head, thus eliminating the fuel heater and WIF sensor all together.

If you are a new diesel owner, you may not know of the need to replace the fuel filter at every other oil change. As well, draining the fuel filter a couple times a year can help eliminate collecting water in the bottom of the filter (which is where water collects when sitting for a long period of time). Ironically, the cylinder head warms up faster than the fuel heater, and stays at a nice stable temp all the time - perfect for circulating clean fresh fuel to the injection pump.

So, to recap, remove the factory fuel filter heater/filter/WIF sensor assembly. Remove factory fuel filter nipple and replace with Cummins nipple #3925954. Then install a WIX #33472 or NAPA #3472 (or your preferred equivalent). These conversion filters are functionally the same as the original, only the water drain is incorporated directly into the bottom of the filter itself and not a separate attachment. Yes, you will lose the 'Water-In-Fuel' sensor ability, but if you drain your fuel filter for a few seconds twice a year you'll never need it. So by doing this conversion you can eliminate the requirement (and wiring) for two items that cannot be sourced anyway, and have simplified the overall operating nature of your Cummins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Since i have a new original style filter on hand, makes no sense to ship it back, but I will ponder that for next time.  Thanks.
 
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