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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been diagnosing why my blower motor in my 93 dakota just suddenly quit on me.Unless I am very much mistaken I have no power to the blower motor connector,I have power to the fuse.A wiring diagram I found seems to suggest that power comes from the ignition switch to the fuse panel and then to the blower motor,with the resister block being on the ground side.I have continuity from the big wire on the resister to ground so at the very least I should get high speed.

Back to my problem,seeing has the harness is all taped up is their a connector I can check for voltage between the fuse panel and the blower motor?
 

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Not disagreeing with you, but there has to be more. If the resistor block is on the ground side, there needs to be a switch to control which path the ground takes, to control the speed. You would need a separate switch to control the speed through the resistor block, and another switch to turn on the power. If you can post up the pertinent part of the wiring diagram, we could help with the diagnosing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So the blower motor I think uses a green and black/tan wire.I have no power at either one.But if I unplug the connector and try to hotwire the motor it doesnt spin.So I'm leaning towards dead motor, but I cant get the damned fan off to access the screws holding the motor in place.I took of the clamp on the end and the fan slides on its shaft but it wont come out, it gets to certain point and then it wont budge, even with me pulling on it with all of my strength.Even more fun is the screws that hold the motor in have a 5.5mm hex head which is perfect because I lost that socket many moons ago.

so to recap: I have power to both sides of the fuse.I dont have power at the blower motor connector but hotwiring the blower motor doesnt make it spin. The resistance on the ground wire changes depending on the position of the selecter so that works.So I need to figure out why I have no power to the connector then figure out how to get the blower motor out of the truck that doesnt involve a hammer,torch,sawsall, or any other tool of mass destruction.
 

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1) Buy a replacement motor that comes with a fan,some fans cannot be removed without breakage.

2) Find power resistor in heater case,likely find melted connector. Repair pigtails available,terminals likely overheated,blackened on resistor. Will need to be replaced. Damage usually caused by excess amp draw from worn bushings in blower motor.
 

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And if so replace the resistor, and the switch, use a hammer and a straight punch not tapered on the shaft to break fan free, just a little to shock it .don't go to deep or you will break the fan, dont rush take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How do I access the resistor in the heater case?

Currently I don't have 12V on the big green wire that goes from #1 fuse to the blower motor.I have power on both sides of the fuse but somewhere between the fuse and blower motor the wiring is bad.
 

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RedneckInTraining said:
How do I access the resistor in the heater case?

Currently I don't have 12V on the big green wire that goes from #1 fuse to the blower motor.I have power on both sides of the fuse but somewhere between the fuse and blower motor the wiring is bad.
then forget the resistor pack. Wiring should go from fuse - ignition switch - dash switch - then resistors/motor. If this is anything like the regular trucks, I'd look at the dash switch very carefully for melting/damage.
 

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IIRC dak's have the resistor under the hood ,,, 2 screws holding a black "plate" with wires on the firewall ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The wiring goes Ignition switch > Fuse> Blower Motor > Resister block >Switch > Ground.Is there anything to check between the fuse and the blower motor? a connection, a sharp bend in the wiring,etc?
 

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Lets start from the beginning. #1. Disconnect wiring connector from blower motor. #2 run positive and negative(12-10 gauge wire) directly to 12 volt source . #3 does the motor work?  Green is +
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I dont have power to the blower motor.Nothing from a test light, no voltage with a multimeter.

Applying power to the blower motor itself doesnt do anything.

So somehow the blower motor died and took the green wire with it, without blowing a fuse or melting the resister block.
 

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🤔
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm just trying to see what/why would cause that.Is there section of the green wire that is unsupported and prone to fatiguing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, I dont know what the hell is going on.I finally got the damn blower motor out.Some asshat at chrysler thought it would be a good idea to have 1.5 ft of wire off the end of the blower motor and wrap it around the heater box to a plug on the front.After fusing with the cord for about 5 minutes I got pissed off so I ripped the motor out,somehow without damaging anything.Jumper it out of the truck and it spins. Reconnect the wiring in the truck and it spins at different speeds depending on where the the switch is at.Even added some oil to quite it down alittle.Now to attack the heater box with a dremel to run the cord down and out rather than up and around the heater box...
 
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