Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is it me or is it all 88's just don't seam to blow alot of air out of the a/c duct I have it cranking out 46 degrees on a 95 degree day but it's not like all my other vehicles when you turn on the a/c it doesn't take long to get cold even my 89 mustang does better everything is converted to r134a so that eleminates that's it low or any of that it just the mustang moves more CFM across the evaporator so I have checked the evaporator in the ramcharger and it is clean I have even sprayed coil cleaner on both sides it's just not moving enough CFM across the evaporator i have change the blower motor, new selector switch and cleaned the blower fan didn't help a bit so i'm just wondering if this is all 88's and on if I could get more CFM across the evaporator I think the compressor would run constantly at highway speeds right now it kicks out because the compressor is working fast than the fan can make the transfer of heat  Any ideal would be appreciated. Thanx 
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,598 Posts
Add a relay and remember that the rc has A LOT more interior area/green house to cool, and has a LOT worse evaporator to transfer heat.

The kind of evap/condensers with a bunch of tube elbows at the ends are basically considered unacceptable as far as r134a cooling standards go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
KThaxton said:
Are you sure the evaporator is clean? You really need to cut a hole in the air box to see. Have you read this?:
http://ramchargercentral.com/index.php?action=articles;sa=view;article=57
Yap I can look through the recirc duct and see the evaporator coils and I have shot coil cleaner on it and pull the blower fan out and shot coil clean that way to.. The whole concept of the A/C unit sucks literally i don't know if this is dodge's way of doing it but most other blow through the evaporator this one sucks through rather than blows.. Ya i thought too that the evaporator was clogged with leaves and stuff because the truck sat outside under trees when it wasn't drive I still get some particles of leaves blowing out through the ducts but last time I looked up through the recirc duct it was clean.. but I'll look again just to make sure..

s ǝoɾ said:
Add a relay and remember that the rc has A LOT more interior area/green house to cool, and has a LOT worse evaporator to transfer heat.

The kind of evap/condensers with a bunch of tube elbows at the ends are basically considered unacceptable as far as r134a cooling standards go.
It has to be the coil more than anything and yes I agree that it is a greenhouse on wheels.. I guess the 89 Mustang just has a better coil setup than the ramcharger because it doesn't take long for it and your turning down the fan speed because it get cold alot faster than the ramcharger.. Much smaller real estate.. I just thought that maybe someone out there has done something a little different to make it better.. Thanx All
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29,359 Posts
you also gotta make sure your "hot-cold" door is do,in its job [ closing all the way to cold ] and that the HOT water valve in the engine bay is closing to shut of the hot water
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
227 Posts
My suburban has a dual ac system, it struggles to handle all of that cubic area but give it 10 minutes and the rear system is turned off.  Maybe you can install a burb rear ac in the rc?  Less real estate biggest bitch would be running ac lines to the rear.  I think a dude was selling a rear ac unit on cragslist here in Indianapolis
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
24,598 Posts
  • This is also why you are supposed to check the air conditioning suction and head pressures at ~2000rpm.
  • Higher the rpm, higher the suction on low side, which means less pressure, which means more cycling.
  • A Partially restricted txv can cause insufficient flow through evaporator as well.
  • Poor cooling through the condenser is very common in southern states. Again, just like the evap, it uses the coiled style condenser which was designed around r12. Take a look at any r134 equipped (oe) vehicle and note the immediate difference in appearance. Most autoparts stores now carry a r134 parallel flow condenser for the 80s/90s trucks. Nothing for pre 81 as far as I can see. (universal will work)
  • An electric condenser fan may also be required to help cool the refrigerant.
  • Look at the how to for info on an adjustable switch to allow longer cycling, lower suction pressure
  • Use a reflective solar shield. This makes a HUGE difference
  • consider roof insulation, again a contributor to heat load
  • Trying to refit junkyard rear ac is not necessary. Vintage air has a clean compact under dash unit that would be great for the rear



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
s ǝoɾ said:
  • This is also why you are supposed to check the air conditioning suction and head pressures at ~2000rpm.
  • Higher the rpm, higher the suction on low side, which means less pressure, which means more cycling.
  • A Partially restricted txv can cause insufficient flow through evaporator as well.
  • Poor cooling through the condenser is very common in southern states. Again, just like the evap, it uses the coiled style condenser which was designed around r12. Take a look at any r134 equipped (oe) vehicle and note the immediate difference in appearance. Most autoparts stores now carry a r134 parallel flow condenser for the 80s/90s trucks. Nothing for pre 81 as far as I can see. (universal will work)
  • An electric condenser fan may also be required to help cool the refrigerant.
  • Look at the how to for info on an adjustable switch to allow longer cycling, lower suction pressure
  • Use a reflective solar shield. This makes a HUGE difference
  • consider roof insulation, again a contributor to heat load
  • Trying to refit junkyard rear ac is not necessary. Vintage air has a clean compact under dash unit that would be great for the rear



WOW this is great little list to go through

Yes I noticed that the Compressor kicks out alot more at high speed than it does tottling around town but it still cools either way just around town does much better it will dip into the low 40s at low RPM rather than upper 40s at higher RPM if I had an adjustable expansion valve i would be able to regulate that but it's what came with it everything is brand new in the truck EXCEPT the condenser and evaporator coils everything else has been replaced.. I looked for an adjustable expansion valve but they don't make them for that model..

I have had the condenser coils completely out of the truck and cleaned them real good sprayed coil cleaner on them and power washed them biggest thing I have been dealing with is Aunt & Uncle kept taking into a A/C repair person because they said it was not cooling well these beetle heads filled the system with this green dye crap to find the leak where it never had one so for the past 2 years I have dealt with getting that crap out of the system so I have flushed the system 3 time and finally got all that crap out and the system is working..

If I could get a condenser that was made for R134a that would end alot of my problems I was looking at that a long time ago but after this last tear down and replaced the compressor ( Bad Bearing under warranty ) it's been doing great another words I just think if it had a little more CFM going across the coils it would fix the whole thing if I had a CFM meter I would guarantee that it is not blowing as hard as today's A/Cs when you can sit at a light and watch a long hair blonde hair fluttering due to the A/C blowing at high across her hair and yours is barely making to you what is the problem... I will look at the evaporator coil again just to make sure the thing is not clogged..

I thought about adding a electric fan but I'm having a hard time understanding WHY I have 2 vehicles 1 year apart both have been converted to R134a from R12 nothing has been changed other than the refrigerant and the 89 Mustang works like a champ and the 88 RamCharger works like a dog.. I guess it would make it easier to take the mustang out of the equation but it's hard to look at it and it will move that blondes hair ( My Wife ) while sitting at the light..

Yes I was also going to do that when I have the RamCharger torn down getting ready for paint which should be in the next month after I get the frontend fixed on the 97 F-150 then I'll start driving it and put the RamCharger down for paint and some other thing like the headliner that is sagging BADLY..

I will go down through this list and see if I can come up with anything I thought about adding a little fan to the recir vent and see if it gives it that little bit more movement of air..

DODGEBOYS said:
you also gotta make sure your "hot-cold" door is do,in its job [ closing all the way to cold ] and that the HOT water valve in the engine bay is closing to shut of the hot water
Yes I have checked that too I clamped off the hose going through the hot water valve and pulled the valve and looked at it and made sure it is closed it was Now with out being able to look into the duct work I couldn't tell you if the door is closing completely I can push it from one side to the other and I have manually checked and made sure it is all the way over and will not go any further to that side ( Cooling Side ) but without being able to look in there I have to take it as it is working now how good of a seal it has I don't know I would just hate to have to pull the dash to fix all of that.. Thanx for all the input very helpful and I can play with some of these ideals..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Gents I screwed with my A/C for 2 summers. Never satisfied. R134 with all stock components Finally read the article about "cleaning your suitcase" its in this website somewhere basically involves cutting a small access hole on the cabin side of the evaporator case and cleaning all the debris. i found a football sized mouse nest in there now blowing 41 degree air all stock components you cant ask for more than that
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top