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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
87’ Power Ram ½ ton long box 318

Well, my very good friend really f***ed :eek: up and put power steering fluid in his master cylinder. What is the best way to go about flushing this out?

Also, there is a lot of slack in his e-brake cables and is being taken up by a cheesy bungee strap. How do we properly adjust this? Anyone have a factory diagram and instructions? ???

Thanks all,

JayBear
 

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Can't really help on the flushing, but the E cable is pretty self explanatory. Grab the adjuster rod on the front with a nice strong pair of vice grips, spray liberally with penetrating oil, and begin tightening. Right to tighten, just like normal. My cable must be pretty stretched, I almost ran out of adjustment on the rod. I got it tightened up pretty decent though. Holds the RC til almost half throttle. Good luck on the flush!!!,,,,Cruisin
 

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Pull the master cylinder off the truck and flush it . Then u will have to do osme serious brake bleeding .
 

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My dad has an 87 and there is a lever or whatever you want to call it in front of the drivers side rear leaf spring that sticks. If the e brake is applied and released i have to get under the truck and kick it towards the rear of the truck to take up the slack.
 

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C300LE: Hit that bad boy and the cable inside of it with some penetrating oil or lithium grease and do the "kick" deal three or four times and you'll be good to go. I don't tend to use my e-brake that much on the four speed. If I'm on level ground, throwing it in gear works. If I'm pointed downhill, I'll put it in reverse, uphill I'll put it in first. I really should start using the e-brake though.

As far as the power steering/brake fluid foul up. Brake fluid is a liquid as where power steering fluid is more of an oil. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, which means it will eventually, over time, absorb moisture, as will power steering fluid will not. DOT 5 brake fluid is silicone-based, however, and will not absord moisture. On the other hand, both fluids are essentially hydraulic fluid, a liquid used as a compressionary measure. The ONLY thing I could see being a problem is the possibility of the power steering fluid eating up the rubber boots and seals in the master cylinder/proportioning valve/wheel cylinders, and/or calipers. My "professional" opinion would be to bench drain and flush the master cylinder, same goes for the prop. valve (which has a bleeder valve on it. Then vacuum drain the entire system and drive it around, making sure there are no leaks from anywhere! This includes the fact that you'll have to remove the rear/front drums and check the wheel cylinder for leaks. Good luck. Hope it works out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Last night we tightened up the cable for the e-brake and now you can't push the pedal down. What's up with that????
 

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Too tight :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well that goes without saying :)...if its any looser then there is slack. I thought there shouldn't be any slack. My TD doesn't have any and it works fine. Am I up in the night here, should the cable hang down a little on this model?
 

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Check the point right in front of the rear axle, where it goes from one cable to two. My plate that holds the two rear cables, was catching on the front spring hanger. It could be stuck on that. Once I adjusted past that point it was fine, no catching or binding. I do have the brake light on the dash trouble though. Is there an adjustment for that switch? I'm sick of pulling the release and bumping the pedal up with my foot, to make it turn off.,,,,Cruisin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My TD has the same problem with the light. :) I can kick mine up to but it won't stay to turn the light off so it just goes off when it feels like it. Now this damn Power Ram's light is stuck on now since we first applied the e-brake during the emergency stop proceedure when the line broke. I'm glad this isn't my rig, I hate brake & electrical problems.
 

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check to make sure the ebrake pedal assembly is not bent.... i have the same light problem with my PW and its annoying. but mine is due to broken welds on the support bracket welded to the kickpanel on the drivers side.... the previous owner kept using it even after the welds broke and bent the whole housing,,,,jsut a thought
 

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I had the same problem. the e brake cables must be sticking due to rust and would not return all the way. i repaced the two rear cables and everything works fine. sounds like maybe your front cable is sticking and not letting the rear ones loose to return.
 
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