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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am doing a swap on this truck I just got and I have to get rid of the lean burn system. I was wondering if someone could give me a little guidance on the wires that where plugged in on the lean burn computer? I know the pink the big pink one is hot. So I'm guessing the big black one is a ground and should be regrounded?

Can I trace and delete all the other wires?
 

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I left the computer plugged in.  I just wired my own ignition system in. I used a relay. On the coil side of the relay I used switched power. On the common side I drew straight from the battery. Then the switched side is your power source clean from the battery. I used gm hei parts. 80s era ignition  module from a corvette. A 96 heat sink and heat  sink compound. A dodge vacuum and mechanical advanced distributor. I used a high voltage coil. No ballast resistor. I got to run a bit more timing then factory stated. I also opened the plug gaps. I went with a little colder plug as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
DODGEBOYS said:
Thanks a lot that'll definitely help! Lol

I got a picture from the manual too. I guess I'm gonna pull the bulk head connector and narrow it down from there.

I not sure of missed anything about grounds when getting rid of wires...I don't wanna mess something up. But I'm gonna do it in the morning.

I got an one wire distributor so I can remove more wires I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Got a lot done today but still didn't mess with the wiring yet.
Got the linkages in, they're just some cheap lokar knock off.
Also got the alternator in without the a/c.
I'm not sure but I think I gotta make a few posts to put all the pics up
 

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Looking at your pics here,regarding that fuel line,specifically the Tee fitting for front carb bowl and 90 degree fitting for rear bowl,if they're not metal fittings,you'll want to use metal. They look like plastic which doesn't do well with underhood heat and can deform with clamp pressure on fuel line at fittings leading to fuel leaks. You can buy dual feed fuel inlets which is safest way to go with only 1 fuel inlet connection. You'll also want to run FI fuel hose if you're not currently,as Ethanol in fuel will have its way with the rubber in non FI hose causing premature failure.

Also consider running the factory type fuel filter canister which has 3 nipples. One inlet/one outlet/one 1/4" fuel return to gas tank. Reason for this setup originally is to eliminate vapor lock when hot out by constantly recirculating fuel to gas tank keeping it cooler.
 

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I would go a step farther and get rid of all the hose except what is needed for connections.  That is way too much rubber hose near an easy source of fire for my liking.  Pick up a metal line for the carb that will go to both bowls.  Run a metal line like stock up from the filter and pump to the carb and join it to the carb line.
 

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Elwenil said:
I would go a step farther and get rid of all the hose except what is needed for connections. That is way too much rubber hose near an easy source of fire for my liking. Pick up a metal line for the carb that will go to both bowls. Run a metal line like stock up from the filter and pump to the carb and join it to the carb line.
X2 agreed
 

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Elwenil said:
I would go a step farther and get rid of all the hose except what is needed for connections. That is way too much rubber hose near an easy source of fire for my liking. Pick up a metal line for the carb that will go to both bowls. Run a metal line like stock up from the filter and pump to the carb and join it to the carb line.
What i originally recommended,as in dual feed inlet. Possible not clear enough?
 

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clarity : I dis agree with amount of  rubber hose used , AND the plastic fittings .  I'd use steel line from pump , and metal tee lines which you can make with brass OR store buy the line for a dual bowl carb . I even disagree with plastic fuel filters , I use metal ones .    lots of gasoline and fire is a bad thing . 
 

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Same,same. Keeping with the minimum amount of connections/fittings,dual feed carb line best bet,not much more $ than handful of brass fittings. Agree with metal fuel line from pump and from correct metal filter with bypass nipple  to carb dual feed line.
These can be had with a threaded inlet that accepts 5/16" flared line fitting eliminating all rubber in fuel supply other than the flexible hose from frame to pump. Less complicated,less chance for fuel leaks,fire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks everyone. The carb came with the metal dual feed bit it wouldn't clear the manifold.

I just want to get it running first then clean it all up and get rid of all the excess materials and parts from all the deletes and modifications.
I think I'm gonna try to clean up the wiring this weekend before anything else.
I've already opted that  I'm gonna run the distributor on a switch in the cab so I can really clean things up and not worry about low voltage to the ignition



 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got a little more done with it. Still gotta put the distributor and wires on it.

I can see about the metal fuel lines for better risk reduction and peace of mind. I looked at the lines closer and I think they should be safe for at least a short time.

The routing is pretty safe and tucks in the same bracket the stock line did. I'll just zip tie it for now the hose is pretty darn thick too.

I could have used the spacer and feed line but I already cut it to get the lines hooked up for times sake. Oh and I've used those plastic filters for a few years now and personally I love them. I am gonna put a tee in for the return hose though that's a nice perk to this conversion.
The weather is to crappy today ☹ for working on it it's gonna set me back a week.
 

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your plastic fuel filter is laying on the radiator hose... the proper location is below/next to the fuel pump.. as far away from heat sources as possible... boiling fuel is a not going to run very well and plastic filters and fittings are a recipe for disaster  {2cents}
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks man.  ya I saw that I haven't got it all set in place yet. You can see the clamp is not tightened down yet either. Still got some work to do before I'm gonna be driving around everywhere.

I'm just working on getting it running right now I haven't heard the engine run yet. So once I get past that and all seems good with the motor, then I'll be getting it all ready for traveling around.
 
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