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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Saw those, but being specifically for an Atlas case I'm not sure about the boss fits. I could pick six holes and drill the threads out if the bore and register are the correct size.

Need to make some phone calls looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 · (Edited)
So....having one of numerous machinists I know around town build a spacer, free of charge. How cool is that? At some point after I've worked all the bugs out I'll make a comprehensive list of issues and the fixes, part numbers I used etc. One of the mods can add it to the appropriate spot.

In case you were wondering what the valve body/TCM assembly looks like here it is. The filter is made into the pan, I plan on installing a deep aluminum pan with a replaceable filter and a provision for a temp sensor.

I finally got around to pulling the pan off this boneyard trans a few days ago, figured I had better take a look before going any further. Has a factory reman tag on the case from 2019 and is really clean inside. Nothing stuck to the magnets in the pan, doesn't stink like burnt fluid or any of that. Only paid $550 plus freight for it, hopefully it works as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 ·
Eight new 4ft LED shop lights brightened things up considerably. Positioned them so there's no shadows anywhere. So much nicer to work in now.
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Discussion Starter · #164 · (Edited)
These transmissions have a heater/cooler assembly on them that serves two purposes. One is to quickly get the trans up to temp if you live where it's cold, and to regulate temp once it's warmed up.
The heat exchanger on the side has a thermostatlic bypass valve that's closed when the trans fluid is cold. Fluid is diverted to the exchanger which is tied into the heater hoses. That warms the fluid. If the fluid gets above the thermostat's set point fluid is diverted to a cooler.........since (A) I live 1500 miles below the Arctic circle and (B) a tape measure says it would hit the trans tunnel.... I threw all that crap in the trash.

Probably going to go with an electric fan type cooler set at about 180 degrees, which should keep the TCM happy. The factory set point is 190, they determined a slight increase in fuel economy with hot thin fluid. Doing everything possible to meet federal fuel mileage mandates. Since I don't care about what the feds want I'll run it a little cooler. Have to see how far I can drop the temp and keep the TCM in learn mode. Learn lets it self adjust for clutch wear etc.

To get rid of the cooler was fairly simple. A 3/4-16 bottom tap and a couple of 8AN swivel 90's. These are O ring type fittings, but since the bosses on the trans are flat I replaced the O rings with copper crush washers. I cut some pieces of stiff gasket material and placed them in the ports to keep the chips out while tapping. Easy peasy.

Can't access the pics on my phone of any of this. Irritating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Got the spacer from the machine shop today and drilled the bolt holes. Boss fits are .0015" which should be plenty close enough on alignment.
I'm going to wire mic the splines on the 727 and 8HP to double check the pitch provided the 37 year old 727 shaft isn't worn enough to screw up the accuracy.

The flat and the notch are to clear the tailhousing.


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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Question.

The 208/727 has a dowel pin, the 8HP does not, nor is there enough meat anywhere in the 8HP tailhousing to add one. The bolt holes in the 8HP are also slightly larger than the 727, being sized for 10mm studs vs 3/8". The longer studs required by the spacer will be inherently less stiff, although I am going to see if ARP offers some I can use.

Since the factory saw no need for a dowel in the 8HP, do you think a hefty support bracket off the trans mount will suffice in keeping it from possibly worming loose?
 

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on the Mack truck at work I've used 5/16 roll pins as dowel pins to keep the bellhousing bolts from loosening up, would there be enough room to drill a couple holes and drive some roll pins in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
on the Mack truck at work I've used 5/16 roll pins as dowel pins to keep the bellhousing bolts from loosening up, would there be enough room to drill a couple holes and drive some roll pins in?
There simply isn't anything there to put a dowel in without compromising the casting.
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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
None of the local parts houses keep gear marking compound which I find to be a bit odd. Regular grease was too tacky to leave a definitive depth so....

I cleaned the shaft with brake cleaner and used some candle wax. Easy to see the engagement depth......and it makes the garage smell good. 😆
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None of the local parts houses keep gear marking compound which I find to be a bit odd. Regular grease was too tacky to leave a definitive depth so....

I cleaned the shaft with brake cleaner and used some candle wax. Easy to see the engagement depth......and it makes the garage smell good. 😆 View attachment 635050
Just in time for the holiday season.
 

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Wax, Clever idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Wax, Clever idea.
Can't let it harden too much, probably work better in the summer months. Should have warmed the shaft slightly with my heat gun.....or set the candle under it 😆
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Would a shoulder bolt or Shoulder stud work. That way one thing can do both jobs. Your machine shop friends might help pick one out.
Jim
After more consideration I don't think I'll worry too much about it since they didn't deem a dowel necessary on the Borg Warner case. Think I'll build a stout brace between the trans mount bolts and the t-case, locktite the the studs, use locknuts and call it good. With close to 500lbft and a 4.71 1st gear the 208 will probably scatter before it has the chance to worm loose anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter · #177 ·
So in my typical Inzane style, after buying a trans, flexplate, controller, shifter and a bunch of other stuff, I checked to verify that the output splines are the same on the 8HP and 727.

Mic'd the OD, wire mic'd the splines and found no appreciable difference. I also did the solder trick to get a visual. The 8HP spline pattern overlays the 727 perfectly with no light shining through.

Got the engine ready to pull but that requires opening the shop
door and it's 12 degrees outside. Got all the stuff to build the center console and shifter mount so that's what's on the agenda until it warms up in a day or two.

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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Giving the Challenger shifter a new home. Base will be covered with black ABS, the top will be brushed aluminum with a junk pocket, USB and 12v ports.

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Got the engine out and torn down, ready to go to a machine shop......provided I can find one. Town of over 100k people and no machine shop here.

Did a mockup with my spare block to build a bell housing to block brace and to check for fitment issues with the headers. The 8HP has a narrower profile across the pan than the 727 and no irritations with the Hemi starter. Going to get it in the truck and start on the crossmember, trans cooler install and TCM wiring harness. Should be ready to drop the engine in when I get it built.

Also came up with a tentative solution to lubricate the splines on the trans/t-case.

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Discussion Starter · #180 ·
Think I found out why the ProFlo 4 kept the pipes black regardless of commanded AFR. Small dent in the collector that my light skim of high temp silicone didn't seal. The o2 sensor is just a few inches from it. Couldn't hear it or see it. I'll pressure test it with some soapy water when it goes back together, see if the PF4 responds better.
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