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Well......that didn't take long. Already burned up the 50A circuit breaker to the fans. I used the wire they supplied with the kit to feed the breaker, burned the terminal out of it. Mucho bigger wire with soldered heavy gauge copper ends will hopefully stop that, and like I said above fans always on when the A/C is on will stop the repetitive high startup amp load.

Drove it nine miles home at 2500 rpm with no fans, about 98 degrees today, ran 210. Getting out of town was a bit sketchy, turned the engine off at every red light 😆
How about each fan separately. When the AC is on, just have one on all the time, and the other cycles. You can also set the thermostats to engage at slightly different temps, so they are not kicking on at the same time.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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Yessir, set at 58psi. Return side off the fuel rails of the Eddy EFI. Figured I might as well put it someplace easy to get to.

It runs ok for a mild 360 if you twist its tail. Barks the 35's in 2nd.
I got scared for a second seeing 58psi but then I calmed down after you said it's EFI. Lol. Nice, I can't wait to bark my new 35's. I just got my new yoke today for my driveshaft. Soon I'll be rollin on my new Dana 60 and 70's! 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
How about each fan separately. When the AC is on, just have one on all the time, and the other cycles. You can also set the thermostats to engage at slightly different temps, so they are not kicking on at the same time.
The controller only has one hot and one ground for the fans, no left/right or primary/secondary control. The speed varies with coolant temp but not with the A/C signal, which kind of sucks since they cycle far more from that than temp, going from zero to wide open a couple times a minute.

I have a plan though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #144 · (Edited)
4 gauge main now feeding the fan controller. Not going the fry that. Added a circuit into the a/c, fans run continuously when the a/c is on. Required a couple diodes in the separate
signal circuits to make everything jive. No more repetitive 30 amp start/stop when the clutch cycles. Fans pull 18 amps running at 100%.

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
It's occurred to me that whoever gets this truck someday when my time with it is done is going to spend a fair amount of their time wondering
"Now why the hell would he do it like that".

Good luck future poor bastard, whoever you may be. 😆
 

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See if this helps my creepy temp problem. Flexalite Monster dual 15" fan setup. Specs say 6000cfm @ 28 amps. Has a variable speed controller. They currently cycle with the A/C clutch which means quite a bit of on/off. I may redo that where they're just on full time when the A/C is on. View attachment 631704
Lots of fan helps.
I had issues with my first fan controller. It definitely couldn't handle the load of my fans.
I found this guy who builds some nice units... WWW.AUTOCOOLGUY.COM
His controllers don't come on at 100%. They "step up" slowly before they go 100%.
No problems anymore.
 

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I have heard nothing but good stuff from autocoolguy. Definitely looks well designed and thought out.
 

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I have heard nothing but good stuff from autocoolguy. Definitely looks well designed and thought out.
Great guy too.
I like the way it uses the ground for the control.
Most controllers out there aren't able to handle even the smaller loads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Found the next weak link in the system. Fried the one wire 140A TuffStuff GM Jeep alternator. GM one wire 175A Powermaster on the way.

This could get old real quick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 ·
Lots of fan helps.
I had issues with my first fan controller. It definitely couldn't handle the load of my fans.
I found this guy who builds some nice units... WWW.AUTOCOOLGUY.COM
His controllers don't come on at 100%. They "step up" slowly before they go 100%.
No problems anymore.
Watched a video on his website. From what I gather his controller doesn't run the fans above 80% regardless of how high the temperature gets. Instead it requires an override circuit grounding the failsafe terminal to attain 100% fan speed. Is that correct?

If so, why would he not design it to automatically get maximum performance from the fans when high temp requires it? One would think a 100% setpoint would be built in. My EFI has a fan on/off setpoint which could be used to override his controller to 100%, just wondering why he deemed the additional circuit necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Got the 175A alternator put on. Was using the factory charge wire from the alternator straight to the battery since the wire was sized for the stock 120A alternator. The previous aftermarket alternator was 140A but the wire had never had to carry the load of two fans before. The factory wire was getting warm so I ran an additional 4ga welding lead with soldered copper terminals from the alternator across the core support straight to the battery as well. The 5/16" output lug on the new 175A alternator gets hot enough to be uncomfortable to hold onto which in turn heats both wires a few inches. No heat detected at the battery end of either charge wire now, or any wires at the positive bus bar or fan controller. The various gadgets are definitely sucking some juice out of the alternator though.
 
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Discussion Starter · #153 ·

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Got the flexplate drilled for the 8HP. Made transfer punches out of steel set screws. Installed two in the converter, bolted the trans on and marked the flexplate. Pulled the trans, drilled those two on the drillpress, installed transfer punches in the other four, and bolted it back on. Threaded bolts in those two holes to locate it, marked the other four, pulled the trans again and drilled those. Bit of a drawn out process but it worked like a charm.

Got a dust cover roughed in, and to my surprise one of the factory trans braces bolts up with very little tweaking. I won't be using it, but will build a stout brace setup once the headers and oil pan are in place. The factory put considerable effort into limiting flex with this transmission, I should do the same.

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Down the road I’m going to go this route. Once I’m retired we plan to drive the hell out of it but Sarah isn’t a stick fan. So the 8HP70 will likely be my choice.
 

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Watched a video on his website. From what I gather his controller doesn't run the fans above 80% regardless of how high the temperature gets. Instead it requires an override circuit grounding the failsafe terminal to attain 100% fan speed. Is that correct?

If so, why would he not design it to automatically get maximum performance from the fans when high temp requires it? One would think a 100% setpoint would be built in. My EFI has a fan on/off setpoint which could be used to override his controller to 100%, just wondering why he deemed the additional circuit necessary.
You know, I never noticed the difference when flipping on the override from leaving it on just the controller as far as the speed of the fans. Maybe I should listen more closely to that.
I rarely need to run the override. Now that it's cooling off, my fans hardly come on at all.
Living where I live should be the acid test for any radiator, fan set up, controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Anyone know where to get a 3/4" spacer for the common 6 bolt t-case? May have to have one made. Axis wants $650+ for a tailhousing when a $75 spacer would do the same job.

Input bottoms on the shoulder of the output.


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They do have 3/4" also


Probably as good a price as you will find. I would use longer studs, instead of studs and screws. Probably cost you close to that in material, plus a few hours of your time to make one.
 
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