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Discussion Starter · #201 ·
On the spline lubrication, the factory now just packs the splines with grease and bolts it together. Seems less than an optimal procedure to me given that the tailhousing has a weep hole and uses no gaskets. One would think that water and dirt would get in and cause long term problems. But what the hell, I'm 60 years old and will probably kick off before the splines do. They make a grease especially for use in rotating equipment such as Grid Line couplings on gearboxes etc. The oil in the grease doesn't easily sling out due to centrifugal force, I'll pack some of that in the splines and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #202 ·
Me. I have no answers, but your truck and your mechanical abilities keep me lurking. One of my favorite RC's on here cause it looks like it's been through hell n back.
It has. Bought it 15 years ago from some folks that had a ranch down in Old Mexico. Paid $400 for it and fairly certain I got screwed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #203 ·
Got my block back from the machine shop today, time to assemble 490 lbft of 8spd small block. :cool: Took four hours because of the usual BS'n about Mopars. Aside from the run of the mill cool Mopar project cars he has sitting around, there's a couple oddballs I want.

First want being a pair of '62 Valiant V200 wagons { just accept my poor taste in automotive styling and say nothing } My mind's eye says black paint and tinted windows, minimal chrome, gray Torque Thrust wheels, lowered just a tiny bit with a slight rake, comfy black interior, and a mildly warmed 360 Magnum with a 46RH trans.
He said he'd throw in the hot rod 280hp 225 Scant 6 on the stand, and if that didn't make enough suds to suit me he offered to throw in a Paxton blower for it as well. It's a really cool engine, but I just couldn't deal with a 6 banger's droning exhaust note.

The other want is a big block '67 Fury III convertible that's spent it's life here in the desert. Reason being I grew up riding in my parent's '67 Fury II. Kinda have a soft spot now for those old boats. It's definitely a sun fried builder but the only rust is in the lower quarters behind the rear tires. Body, floors and trunk pan are almost pristine and it's complete right down to the air cleaner. It's a bucket seat console car with power windows, A/C, power top, and all those hard to find components are in place. Not crazy about the RR1 Yellow paint, but dig the 383, black top and interior. Think DD1 Light Blue Poly would go better with the black and the body style. He said he had a 440 he'd throw in to sweeten the deal if I wanted more go. But nah, a car like that is a top down Sunday cruiser.

Sigh..... If only I had more time and 127 pockets filled with money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #204 ·
Honed to .040", decked, chamfered, and checked for straight. Fresh cam bearings, oil pump bushing, galley and freeze plugs. Should be a solid little engine.

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Off to a great start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #206 · (Edited)
410's coming together. Waiting on a high volume standard pressure oil pump and intake gaskets from Summit, should be here tomorrow. None of the local parts houses keep much in stock for 30+ year old Mopar dinosaur engines.

Was going to reuse the oil pump that was in it but I took it apart for inspection and the gears were damaged. Something pretty hard went through it, gears had a couple dents in them. Might have got a chunk of trash in it when I swapped heads last year or it may have happened when I first built it back in 2014, can't say.

Word to the wise if you're running Eddy LA heads and .039" head gaskets with a decked roller block, install the lifters before bolting the heads down. I had to bevel one top edge slightly where the dogbone rides and shave about .010" off the tops of the four outboard lifters, and it was still a bear fight to get them in. Won't cause any issues with the lifters, the machined surfaces that ride in the bores weren't touched and still plenty of meat for the retaining ring that holds the guts in the lifter.

Went that route because I'd already torqued the heads and would have had to throw $100 worth of head gaskets in the trash and wait another week for another set. Apparently I'm not only impatient but cheap too.

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Wow, not sure I would have thought of the lifters not fitting. Cannot even recall what order I did the last time.


Do you have pics of the oil pump gears? I cannot imagine what could be loose that could scar the gears. damm, that engine looks like it should be in a race museum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Wow, not sure I would have thought of the lifters not fitting. Cannot even recall what order I did the last time.


Do you have pics of the oil pump gears? I cannot imagine what could be loose that could scar the gears. damm, that engine looks like it should be in a race museum.
These heads are relieved slightly around the inner 12 pushrod tunnels but flat at the four corner ones. Never occurred to me that the slightly thinner head gaskets and .010" off the block would be an issue. I guess because I had no real trouble a couple years ago when I swapped the heads and cam.

I'll get a pic of the gears.
 

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...yah I ran into the 'WTM-FH!!! - the f--king heads have to come off to get the f--king lifters out??!!!' 🤬🤬🤬🤬 - problem too. Would have had to severely distort/rip the head gaskets to get them out...or in. Fortunately I only had one head bolted on before I remembered this little factoid from when I was pulling the heads off.

Looking good Joel 👍
 
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410's coming together. Waiting on a high volume standard pressure oil pump and intake gaskets from Summit, should be here tomorrow. None of the local parts houses keep much in stock for 30+ year old Mopar dinosaur engines.

Was going to reuse the HV oil pump that was in it but I took it apart for inspection and the gears were damaged. Something pretty hard went through it, gears had a couple dents in them. Might have got a chunk of trash in it when I swapped heads last year or it may have happened when I first built it back in 2014, can't say.

Word to the wise if you're running Eddy LA heads and .039" head gaskets with a decked roller block, install the lifters before bolting the heads down. I had to bevel one top edge slightly where the dogbone rides and shave about .010" off the tops of the four outboard lifters, and it was still a bear fight to get them in. Won't cause any issues with the lifters, the machined surfaces that ride in the bores weren't touched and still plenty of meat for the retaining ring that holds the guts in the lifter.

Went that route because I'd already torqued the heads and would have had to throw $100 worth of head gaskets in the trash and wait another week for another set. Apparently I'm not only impatient but cheap too.

View attachment 636807 View attachment 636808
Okay cool!
A semi nasty small block!
 

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...yah I ran into the 'WTM-FH!!! - the f--king heads have to come off to get the f--king lifters out??!!!' 🤬🤬🤬🤬 - problem too. Would have had to severely distort/rip the head gaskets to get them out...or in. Fortunately I only had one head bolted on before I remembered this little factoid from when I was pulling the heads off.

Looking good Joel 👍
Yeah. You'd think somebody would add that to the instructions as a warning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #212 ·
Yeah. You'd think somebody would add that to the instructions as a warning.
In this case I might have created the problem by using an unintended combination of parts. LA shaft rocker heads with what is basically a Magnum cam and lifter design. I had to put the heads on a mill and punch the pushrod tunnels out for clearance. I wanted to keep the factory roller cam and superior shaft rocker setup but nobody offers an off the shelf head for this engine.

I've never seen an Eddy Magnum version of the RPM head, those may not have the lifter issue. Given the fitment problems with every Holley Corporate owned aftermarket hotrod part on this motor, I wouldn't be surprised if those wouldn't go in either.

Took several hours work to get around problems with the intake and a few days to iron out the headers. All that was addressed last time so it's gone together reasonably well so far. Had to do a little tweaking on the windage tray to clear the rods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #213 · (Edited)
Got the bottom end buttoned up, so's the top. So if you've ever wondered as I have what the difference is between a HV and standard pump, the HV gear set measures roughly 1 1/16" tall, the standard pump measures 7/8". Your dose of useless information for the day.

Also pics of the dented gears as requested. Other than the multiple dents the pump looked pretty good for being almost 9 years old.

And yes I have to threaten to shoot my feet to make them get in bed with those hands at night. 😆

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Discussion Starter · #214 ·
I was able to spread the stock windage tray enough to clear the rods. Took some massaging with a kinetic inducer on the dipstick guide in the pan plus trimming the tray a bit to clear said guide. Also had to flatten the flange on the tray. It's close, maybe 3/16", but a miss is as good as mile.
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Wow, that is some pretty good sized dings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #216 · (Edited)
Given the hybrid nature of this assembly I decided that testing the starter under load now vs finding a problem once it's in the truck would be a good idea.

Not having a proper locating plate for the starter I made some split bushings that center the starter bolts in the holes of the trans. The theory being that when the blueprints were drawn up clearance and general dimensions were based on the the centers of the bolt holes.

I put some marking compound on the teeth, installed the spark plugs, spun the oil pump with a drill and cranked it over. Tooth engagement is good to go. The direct drive Hemi starter and Chevyish flexplate definitely have a unique sound.....kind of like an old tractor.

Next on the list is a mount for the t-case shifter, new seals in the trans and t-case, then putting it in the truck. I have an issue with the angle of the engine being too steep at 7* down in the back. Needs to be about 3*. This is a result of the t-case being clocked slightly higher now. It's 3/8" from the floorboard, can't go any higher. That means sectioning the motor mount brackets on the block and a redo of the trans mount to lower the engine/trans a bit and correct the angle.
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Given the hybrid nature of this assembly I decided that testing the starter under load now vs finding a problem once it's in the truck would be a good idea.

Not having a proper locating plate for the starter I made some split bushings that center the starter bolts in the holes of the trans. The theory being that when the blueprints were drawn up clearance and general dimensions were based on the the centers of the bolt holes.

I put some marking compound on the teeth, installed the spark plugs, spun the oil pump with a drill and cranked it over. Tooth engagement is good to go. The direct drive Hemi starter and Chevyish flexplate definitely have a unique sound.....kind of like an old tractor 😆

Next on the list is a mount for the t-case shifter, new seals in the trans and t-case, then putting it in the truck. I have an issue with the angle of the engine being too steep at 7* down in the back. Needs to be about 3*. This is a result of the t-case being clocked slightly higher now. It's 3/8" from the floorboard, can't go any higher. That means sectioning the motor mount brackets on the block and a redo of the trans mount to lower the engine/trans a bit and correct the angle.
View attachment 637010 View attachment 637012
I just love it when things go together smoothly...
 

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Discussion Starter · #218 ·

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Discussion Starter · #219 ·
I have an oddity with this '90 block. Years ago the 727 flexplate cracked and I replaced it, not giving it much thought at the time. Upon tearing it down this go around I found the flexplate had again developed a couple of cracks.
I assumed the problem was the bore in the factory crank wasn't deep enough and the converter hub was bottoming out. There was a witness mark in the bore and on the hub.

I used a '78 block and the Scat crank to mock up the 8HP and saw no issues. The converter easily faced up to the flexplate. Tearing things down after the starter test with the '90 engine I noticed there was once again a tiny bit of stand off between the converter and flexplate. This makes zero sense to me. None.

I'll take a bit off the face of the converter hub and see if it will face up to the flexplate, but the question remains.
 

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not sure I'm following Joel. You're saying the converter is simply not 'seating' completely to the flexplate?, and if removing some from the converter snout will allow the converter to fully seat? Or when all bolted up tight the converter is not seated far enough into the flexplate/crank pilot hole? That may simply be an '8HP' thing...but why would it have manifest with the 727...with a totally different converter?

You have a 'new' stroker crankshaft right...so the 727 'problem' should not have transferred to the stroker...?

...I'm sorry could you please repeat the question? o_O :ROFLMAO:
 
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