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...in the event you don't find a good one we have a great machine shop here in the 'Springs ;) 🤪
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
...in the event you don't find a good one we have a great machine shop here in the 'Springs ;) 🤪
Talked to the guy at Automotive Machine here in town a couple months back, he said he was two or three months behind, busy as a three toed hillbilly in a pair of flip flops. Went by two weeks ago and he'd went out of business.

There's another guy that's been around here for ages, balances cranks and all that but he's semi retired. See if I can talk him into it. May have to go to Lubbock or Abilene. Never thought getting a block bored would be such a hassle but that's life in today's throw away society.
 

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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
Trans brace done. Not sure how much rigidity it adds with only the two 3/8 bolts on the block, but there's nothing else to bolt to and something is better than nothing.

That's the last of the details to get it mounted to the engine.
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That looks much better then the stock ones for the 727.
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 · (Edited)
I'm not overly fussy but I've been having a hard time finding a trustworthy machinist to do my block, but I finally got in touch with a local guy. He's in his mid 60's and a total Mopar nut to boot.

Now.....I figure a guy that has a stroked 412ci '57 Imperial Hemi on a stand next to a hotrod Slant 6 with a fully ported head, tall cam with a full roller valve train.....a man that sticks 360 cranks in 318 blocks to make homebrewed 350ci strokers and does it just for fun, a guy that builds 8000+ rpm 304 ci SBM's for class racing, has Hillborn mechanical injection setups for BBM's sitting around, a few flatheads with two pot intakes and aluminum heads because he thinks they're kinda cool......a man that digs 53-54 Studebakers and likes the '55 Plymouth better than the '56 because the '55 doesn't have fins same as me......well hell.....I guess he'll just have to do.

We got started talking, spent about three hours shooting the breeze and discussing a bunch of tech stuff. Cool guy in an off the beaten path old shop with cool stuff everywhere. As it turns out this man used to build race winning engines for Jim Hall Racing back in the day.

He's decking and squaring the block, chamfering the head bolt holes to compensate for deck distortion that apparently is a possible issue only on 360 blocks, checking the mains and cam tunnel for straight, and doing the bores with a special hone finish he developed from his years of racing research. He says it promotes sealing and reduces ring wear and friction. Should be good enough for an 'ol truck motor.
 

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I'm not overly fussy but I've been having a hard time finding a trustworthy machinist to do my block, but I finally got in touch with a local guy. He's in his mid 60's and a total Mopar nut to boot.

Now.....I figure a guy that has a stroked 412ci '57 Imperial Hemi on a stand next to a hotrod Slant 6 with a fully ported head, tall cam with a full roller valve train.....a man that sticks 360 cranks in 318 blocks to make homebrewed 350ci strokers with ported 1.92" valved 302 casting heads and does it just for fun, a guy that builds 8000+ rpm 304 ci SBM's for class racing, has Hillborn mechanical injection setups for BBM's sitting around, a few flatheads with two pot intakes and aluminum heads because he thinks they're kinda cool......a man that digs 53-54 Studebakers and likes the '55 Plymouth better than the '56 because the '55 doesn't have fins same as me......well hell.....I guess he'll just have to do.

We got started talking, spent about three hours shooting the breeze and discussing a bunch of tech stuff. Cool guy in an off the beaten path old shop with cool stuff everywhere. As it turns out this man used to build race winning engines for Jim Hall Racing back in the day.

He's decking and squaring the block, chamfering the head bolt holes to compensate for deck distortion that apparently is a possible issue only on 360 blocks, checking the mains and cam tunnel for straight, and doing the bores with a special hone finish he developed from his years of racing research that promotes sealing and reduces ring wear and friction. Should be good enough for an 'ol truck motor.
And hopefully he won't die on you. ☺
 

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Discussion Starter · #189 ·
And hopefully he won't die on you. ☺
Long as he finishes my block first, this will be the last hotrod engine I'll ever build. If it blows up I'll stick a reman engine in it and call it a day.
 
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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Sad day when you realize you've gotten too old and crippled up to bench press a 208. My right shoulder said nope, ain't doin' it.

Built a bracket to bolt it to a trans jack, got it mated. Gotta figure out a trans mount, crossmember, exhaust routing etc etc.
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Discussion Starter · #191 · (Edited)
Got the trans mount 98% done. Now before you start mumbling what's that crap to yourself, I had a few reasons for going this route vs building a new crossmember.

First, I ain't real sure this trans is going to work, hence there are no modifications done that would be a pain in the arse to undo. Even so the mods done should be 100% reliable long term.

Second are the sliders and skid plate. You can see in the pic the cage/slider mounts are welded to the frame and positioned to get added strength from the stock crossmember.
The bomb proof skid plate bolts to the outside of the frame fore and aft of the slider mount as well as to the crossmember. Some 18 bolts in all, 10 of which are in the crossmember. The skid plate is designed to reinforce the cage, sliders, frame and crossmember.

So...the twisting force you were wondering about caused by the new trans mount cantilevered off the rear of the crossmember becomes a non issue once the belly pan is in place.


I should add that while the 8HP appears considerably longer than the 727 in these pics, it is only approximately 1.5" longer overall from bellhousing face to adapter face. With the 13/16" spacer required to mate the 208 it is some 2 3/16" longer overall. The difference in trans mount position on the tailhousing is what required some of this overhang. The plate on the crossmember is made from a piece of 1/4" x 8" strap and as you can see I reused the stock 727 rubber biscuits and added a 2 1/2" riser and plate to the stock mount.

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After more consideration I don't think I'll worry too much about it since they didn't deem a dowel necessary on the Borg Warner case. Think I'll build a stout brace between the trans mount bolts and the t-case, locktite the the studs, use locknuts and call it good. With close to 500lbft and a 4.71 1st gear the 208 will probably scatter before it has the chance to worm loose anyway.
I wonder if the studs from a 241 might work? That’s what I used for my Dana 300 since the originals were too short for the NV4500 flange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
I wonder if the studs from a 241 might work? That’s what I used for my Dana 300 since the originals were too short for the NV4500 flange.
Gonna see if ARP offers some that will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Your thoughts on spline oiling?

Both the 208 and 8HP use seals on the input/output. Thinking I'll leave the seal out of the 208 and have an oil slinger made. Tape measure says that the adapter cavity will get some oil in it but the shaft will be well above it.

It's possible the exposed bearing would provide enough oil mist to do the job but I'd rather not trash the shafts by being wrong.

Whatttya think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Anyone following this thread?
 

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yes, I have been.
 

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Since I do not have the money or space, I am living some of my dreams through this thread, and a few others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 · (Edited)
Been getting the wiring harness etc for the trans installed. The controller, reverse light relay and harness will all be hidden in / under the console. Installed a wiring grommet in the floor to route the harness to the trans. The ALDL and laptop connectors will be accessed at the rear of the console.

Since the Proflow 4 doesn't support this controller via canbus, I'm using the optional analog sensor inputs of which there are only three required. TPS, RPM and a brake switch signal. The other wiring to the dash is for switched 12v, constant 12v and a ground.

I added wiring to the harness on the trans side to mate with the stock neutral safety switch harness. The controller now provides a ground path for the starter relay in park and neutral, and a ground path to operate the reverse light relay. That relay gets it's switched 12v from the stock reverse light circuit. The wiring is pretty straightforward but soldering wires together is a task I don't think I'll ever develop a liking for.

I could have unpinned and removed the canbus wiring and shortened up the remaining harness but there may come a day when this controller could be needed for a different vehicle or engine combo. Decided that coiling up the excess and hiding it away would be a wiser choice.

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