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Nice!
Thanks for posting this ongoing build. Keep it up!
Like you exhaust. I did the same thing with the resonators because I like the stealthier sound. I put my resonators after the mufflers. I have quite a few miles on them now. I think they've lost their effectiveness. Probably need to update them soon.
Here's a shot when they were new.
617299


I sure wish somebody would build a semi- quiet performance muffler.
 

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Can't say on the Vintage Air on performance yet, It blows cold but not much of it as far as cfm. It's the GenIV Magnum, touted as 'powerful enough to cool the largest sedan or wagon'. Apparently those guys didn't grow up riding in a big 'ol Chrysler with six vents in the dash and would freeze you out on low.
Yep. I've heard their CFM was low. That's why they use tiny vents.
I need mucho CFM here in the desert.
Love your wiring job... very professional. I try. Get close. Better than I was 10 years ago. ;D
 

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Problem I was having is that it kept inserting the picture of Kurt's exhaust no matter where I clicked on his following post. I'm on my desktop, don't see a trash tab anywhere,
You can blame it on me.
I'm used to it now. :giggle:
 

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Tuff wheel from OER showed up today, still waiting on the A/B body 3.75" adapter can. Decided to add the E body S83 rim blow trim ring to spruce it up a bit. Have to glue it in place.

Should be entertaining making it fit an '88 tilt column.
That Tuff Wheel looks real nice!
My Grant wheel is starting to look a little rough. Looking for a replacement soon. A Tuff Wheel would be cool to get.
What is the diameter of that pill? I really don't want to go big in that dimension.
 

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Haven't been on here for a while, sorry for the late reply. The factory system was shot, time had taken it's toll. Decided to replace it instead of trying to find obsolete 30+ year old vacuum parts. Plus it wasn't designed for 134A, never cooled all that well 15 years ago.

Having said that, the VintageAir doesn't cool very well either. To be clear, this is not a rant, just my experience with their system. Perhaps others considering a VintageAir system will benefit. Given the cost, the time and labor involved and the exuberant advertising, I've been pretty disappointed with it, and I wouldn't recommend their products. Being all too familiar with exuberant advertising I installed the Gen IV Magnum, the largest one they sell. It's touted as powerful enough to cool the largest sedan or wagon. Taking the usual exaggeration of performance into account, I figured it would at least cool a well insulated pickup sized area.

It doesn't. Problems aside, and I'll get to those in a minute, it simply doesn't move enough air volume to do the job. Keep in mind that with the soft top my RC is a bit smaller inside than a clubcab pickup, I never turn the fan switch below about 85%. It struggles to keep up. The cab is well insulated front to back, top to bottom, so is the soft top. Radiant heat or air leaks aren't the problem, I went to great lengths to make sure of that.

Now, the aforementioned problems. The biggest problem is that if you have a problem, VintageAir truly sucks at returning calls or answering emails. Left four messages, never got a return call, so I emailed them. Finally got a response two weeks later, and it was of no help at all. A couple months went by, emailed them again, different guy, same thing. I did notice however, the sales line answers their phone post haste. That speaks volumes to me about their priorities.

The operational issue with mine is that the ECU cycles the clutch on at 52 degrees vent temp, off at 48. Couple that with the weak air volume and it's useless if it's 90+ degrees outside, and in West Texas it's 90+ nine months of the year.

I tested and calibrated the switches, checked the resistance of the evap temp probe, tried different charge volumes, messed with it off and on for months to no avail. I then added a small microprocessor controlled programmable temp switch. It has a temp probe which I installed in one the vent hoses at the plenum. It has a relay which I use to provide a ground path for the clutch relay. In effect it bypasses ECU control of the clutch. I set the on/off parameters at 42 and 38 respectively. It now blows cold enough to do some good but has a tendency to freeze up after extended operation. The low side line from the evaporator gets covered in ice. I replaced the expansion valve thinking it might have been stuck or screwed up, same issue.

All I can come up with now is that perhaps my vacuum pump isn't strong enough to properly evacuate the system and it still has some moisture in it, or 50ish degrees is simply the best it can do with the weak air volume. Not enough volume across the evaporator to keep it thawed out at lower temps. I'm going to take it to the local A/C shop and have them evacuate and charge it, see if it helps. If not I guess I'll add an on/off switch to the auxiliary controller, turn that off and let it thaw out every so often.

Don't buy the hose kit with the crimping tool from VintageAir either. The aluminum hose ends are cheap and have a tendency to crack. Had the local A/C shop make two new hoses with steel ends in the last six months.
That's some good info on a product I was looking at for my Daytona clone.
Pretty much what I've heard from a friend of mine who installed a Classic Air unit in a resto mod Road Runner. No air volume. The Vintage Air and Classic Air are the same company from what I've been told.
You'd think that would be an easy fix... a bigger motor and fan.
You seemed to try everything you could to fix the issue. Way beyond which you should have done after paying for a product like that.
Why can't THEY fix a problem that's needs to be fixed?

Me thinks with my Daytona, I might run the stock air box with a Sanden compressor and upgraded internals to run 134a. And see about upgrading the blower motor somehow to throw more volume. Volume is what makes the new cars so nice.
 

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See if this helps my creepy temp problem. Flexalite Monster dual 15" fan setup. Specs say 6000cfm @ 28 amps. Has a variable speed controller. They currently cycle with the A/C clutch which means quite a bit of on/off. I may redo that where they're just on full time when the A/C is on. View attachment 631704
Lots of fan helps.
I had issues with my first fan controller. It definitely couldn't handle the load of my fans.
I found this guy who builds some nice units... WWW.AUTOCOOLGUY.COM
His controllers don't come on at 100%. They "step up" slowly before they go 100%.
No problems anymore.
 

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I have heard nothing but good stuff from autocoolguy. Definitely looks well designed and thought out.
Great guy too.
I like the way it uses the ground for the control.
Most controllers out there aren't able to handle even the smaller loads.
 

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Watched a video on his website. From what I gather his controller doesn't run the fans above 80% regardless of how high the temperature gets. Instead it requires an override circuit grounding the failsafe terminal to attain 100% fan speed. Is that correct?

If so, why would he not design it to automatically get maximum performance from the fans when high temp requires it? One would think a 100% setpoint would be built in. My EFI has a fan on/off setpoint which could be used to override his controller to 100%, just wondering why he deemed the additional circuit necessary.
You know, I never noticed the difference when flipping on the override from leaving it on just the controller as far as the speed of the fans. Maybe I should listen more closely to that.
I rarely need to run the override. Now that it's cooling off, my fans hardly come on at all.
Living where I live should be the acid test for any radiator, fan set up, controller.
 

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None of the local parts houses keep gear marking compound which I find to be a bit odd. Regular grease was too tacky to leave a definitive depth so....

I cleaned the shaft with brake cleaner and used some candle wax. Easy to see the engagement depth......and it makes the garage smell good. 😆 View attachment 635050
Just in time for the holiday season.
 

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I'm not overly fussy but I've been having a hard time finding a trustworthy machinist to do my block, but I finally got in touch with a local guy. He's in his mid 60's and a total Mopar nut to boot.

Now.....I figure a guy that has a stroked 412ci '57 Imperial Hemi on a stand next to a hotrod Slant 6 with a fully ported head, tall cam with a full roller valve train.....a man that sticks 360 cranks in 318 blocks to make homebrewed 350ci strokers with ported 1.92" valved 302 casting heads and does it just for fun, a guy that builds 8000+ rpm 304 ci SBM's for class racing, has Hillborn mechanical injection setups for BBM's sitting around, a few flatheads with two pot intakes and aluminum heads because he thinks they're kinda cool......a man that digs 53-54 Studebakers and likes the '55 Plymouth better than the '56 because the '55 doesn't have fins same as me......well hell.....I guess he'll just have to do.

We got started talking, spent about three hours shooting the breeze and discussing a bunch of tech stuff. Cool guy in an off the beaten path old shop with cool stuff everywhere. As it turns out this man used to build race winning engines for Jim Hall Racing back in the day.

He's decking and squaring the block, chamfering the head bolt holes to compensate for deck distortion that apparently is a possible issue only on 360 blocks, checking the mains and cam tunnel for straight, and doing the bores with a special hone finish he developed from his years of racing research that promotes sealing and reduces ring wear and friction. Should be good enough for an 'ol truck motor.
And hopefully he won't die on you. ☺
 

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410's coming together. Waiting on a high volume standard pressure oil pump and intake gaskets from Summit, should be here tomorrow. None of the local parts houses keep much in stock for 30+ year old Mopar dinosaur engines.

Was going to reuse the HV oil pump that was in it but I took it apart for inspection and the gears were damaged. Something pretty hard went through it, gears had a couple dents in them. Might have got a chunk of trash in it when I swapped heads last year or it may have happened when I first built it back in 2014, can't say.

Word to the wise if you're running Eddy LA heads and .039" head gaskets with a decked roller block, install the lifters before bolting the heads down. I had to bevel one top edge slightly where the dogbone rides and shave about .010" off the tops of the four outboard lifters, and it was still a bear fight to get them in. Won't cause any issues with the lifters, the machined surfaces that ride in the bores weren't touched and still plenty of meat for the retaining ring that holds the guts in the lifter.

Went that route because I'd already torqued the heads and would have had to throw $100 worth of head gaskets in the trash and wait another week for another set. Apparently I'm not only impatient but cheap too.

View attachment 636807 View attachment 636808
Okay cool!
A semi nasty small block!
 

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...yah I ran into the 'WTM-FH!!! - the f--king heads have to come off to get the f--king lifters out??!!!' 🤬🤬🤬🤬 - problem too. Would have had to severely distort/rip the head gaskets to get them out...or in. Fortunately I only had one head bolted on before I remembered this little factoid from when I was pulling the heads off.

Looking good Joel 👍
Yeah. You'd think somebody would add that to the instructions as a warning.
 

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Given the hybrid nature of this assembly I decided that testing the starter under load now vs finding a problem once it's in the truck would be a good idea.

Not having a proper locating plate for the starter I made some split bushings that center the starter bolts in the holes of the trans. The theory being that when the blueprints were drawn up clearance and general dimensions were based on the the centers of the bolt holes.

I put some marking compound on the teeth, installed the spark plugs, spun the oil pump with a drill and cranked it over. Tooth engagement is good to go. The direct drive Hemi starter and Chevyish flexplate definitely have a unique sound.....kind of like an old tractor 😆

Next on the list is a mount for the t-case shifter, new seals in the trans and t-case, then putting it in the truck. I have an issue with the angle of the engine being too steep at 7* down in the back. Needs to be about 3*. This is a result of the t-case being clocked slightly higher now. It's 3/8" from the floorboard, can't go any higher. That means sectioning the motor mount brackets on the block and a redo of the trans mount to lower the engine/trans a bit and correct the angle.
View attachment 637010 View attachment 637012
I just love it when things go together smoothly...
 

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Just to bust up the monotony of build pics, here's one from last year. It hadn't rained here in Odessa for months but the Davis Mountains to the southwest had been getting some pretty consistently. Being tired of blowing dust and seeing the clouds far off in the distance I decided to just jump in 'ol Bumpy and take a drive to see some rain. Only 150 miles one way lol.
I thought I was the only one who would pull that stunt. ☺
Love the rain!
 

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Boring video, quit any time you like, but I wanted to show you guys how quiet the Ramcharger is inside now even with the soft top, side exit exhaust and noisy tires. Most of the noise you hear is the A/C, the VintageAir isn't exactly quiet. Has a bit of a squeak somewhere in the cage too, not surprising since it's welded to the frame. But it's a really nice driver for a 37 year truck that was a beaten down old turd just a couple years ago. The 2500 rpm at 60 gets a bit monotonous on the highway but the 8HP will cure that.

See that screw hole in the top of the dash? That's where an 8" tall plastic gold eagle resided when I bought the truck 15 years ago. Si' habla espanol. :rolleyes: Throwing it in the trash was the first mod I did.

Anyhow, this is the south or upper end of Wild Rose Pass, just a nice relaxing drive. Road gets too twisty a bit farther on to video with a cell phone.

Pretty country!
 
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