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Cool. Good to see you still moving along.
 

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Yes, the reply button is the simplest. Using the quote button, adds the quote to a temp area, you can add more then one quote, and it gets confusing quick. There isa trash can picture next to the quote you can use to empty it from the multi quote temp area.
 

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If you get too many quotes in the multi quote, you can delete them by clicking on the trash can. After you click on the insert quote button.

I will try to remember to delet this in a week or so, so it will not mess up your build thread.



617302
 

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true , I forgot about those , why I said MAY . Don't really know ,I do know those are a different construction belts IF that matters , I also don't know ....
Thats what I was thinking, a different internal build. They are listed separate from automotive belts. I was waiting to see what you would come back with. ;)

I was thinking of doing a similar thing with the dual alt mount I am working on, but now you have me thinking a different route.
 

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He has been busy here.

 

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That is slick. You do not need fancy tools, awesome job. Cannot wait to see the soft top.
 

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The first thing you want to look for is that nothing touches each other. Knuckle at the axle C, tie rod, drag link, tires, frame, ect. Then you want to make sure the axle U-joint is not turned too far.

Worrying that both sides turn the same, is way down the list. IIRC, the factory specs were different turning diameter for turning left, then for turning right.
 

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One would think the sides would be coser. I never took a great look, always thought the difference was because of the drag link. My 85 W350 has different then stock tires, so it rubs the left wheel on the drag link with a sharp right turn.
 

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Are those shoulder, bolts? are they snug on the flexplate? it looks like the plate is not centered, but I suspect it is the angle of the camera in relation to the center of the bore. A small ring would be easy to make, even if just used to center the plate when tightening. But I would wait until you know if you will need any sort of spacer, it would be better to combine them if needed.

No get the trans in place to see how the rest fits.
 

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Speaking of starters, is there any difference between the 5.7 hemi pickup starter and the LA as far as bolt pattern and depth?
It looks like there is a big difference. First is the mini starter that fits the LA engines. Second is the 5.7 starter.

Engineering Machine Auto part Tool Fashion accessory


Sports gear Bicycle part Personal protective equipment Auto part Metal
 

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Talked to ATI today, flexplate adapter is 1/2" thick, so here's my tentative plan.

Currently have about .060" gap, flexplate to converter. I'll machine the adapter down to .060'' thick which will bring the gap to zero. The block to trans spacer will give me back .125", which I'd think would be plenty.
.060" is a bit thinfor such a big piece, unless they have a magnetic chuck. Take the flex plate along, they will likely say it would be better to cut whats needed off the back of it. Or put the flex plate on, then the adapter pointing inwards, to fit in the hub area. and live with the .185" clearance.


Ordered both pieces, take about two weeks to get them. In the meantime I'll take a look at the starter/flexplate alignment and see what needs doing there. When the hub shows up I'll get it machined and the 8HP converter bolt pattern drilled in the flexplate. Have the pilot bushing ordered too, can't get any accurate gap dimensions until I get that installed.

Making progress.
Looking good, anxiously awaiting to see this.
 

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You can get a rough ideas if two gears have the same modulus, by measuring from one side of a tooth, to the same side of the next tooth, along the center line of the tooth. But these may be so close it is hard to gauge. There is charts with gear profiles you can print out, then hold up to the teeth to check.

Or since you have everything so close to set up, take a permanent marker (sharpie), and coat a bunch of teeth on the starter, then run it a bit, and see how the contact path looks.
 
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Even with the wrinkles, I like it.
 

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That compartment looks great. I agree with the shiny. Maybe just a light bead blast, to give them more of a brushed nickle look.

I take it it is the second row seats? the front ones do not fold. Do they have all the holes in the leather? if so, it looks like it would not be hard to add a fan to ventilate them, makes a world of difference in the summer.
 

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If you have not ordered them, a set that is not stow and go is almost the same bucket seat as the front, much more comfortable. I would not like sitting in a stow and go for a trip. Look for pics of the second row in a pacifica hybrid, they are the better ones. A gas hybrid can also have them, just and extra cost option.
 

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I like the stripes, just not sure if I like two of them. I am not artistic enough to visualize the end result until I see it done.
 

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Well......that didn't take long. Already burned up the 50A circuit breaker to the fans. I used the wire they supplied with the kit to feed the breaker, burned the terminal out of it. Mucho bigger wire with soldered heavy gauge copper ends will hopefully stop that, and like I said above fans always on when the A/C is on will stop the repetitive high startup amp load.

Drove it nine miles home at 2500 rpm with no fans, about 98 degrees today, ran 210. Getting out of town was a bit sketchy, turned the engine off at every red light 😆
How about each fan separately. When the AC is on, just have one on all the time, and the other cycles. You can also set the thermostats to engage at slightly different temps, so they are not kicking on at the same time.
 

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I have heard nothing but good stuff from autocoolguy. Definitely looks well designed and thought out.
 
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