...in the event you don't find a good one we have a great machine shop here in the 'Springs 🤪
Talked to the guy at Automotive Machine here in town a couple months back, he said he was two or three months behind, busy as a three toed hillbilly in a pair of flip flops. Went by two weeks ago and he'd went out of business....in the event you don't find a good one we have a great machine shop here in the 'Springs 🤪
Couldn't agree more.Congratulations! That's exactly who you want working on it!
And hopefully he won't die on you. ☺I'm not overly fussy but I've been having a hard time finding a trustworthy machinist to do my block, but I finally got in touch with a local guy. He's in his mid 60's and a total Mopar nut to boot.
Now.....I figure a guy that has a stroked 412ci '57 Imperial Hemi on a stand next to a hotrod Slant 6 with a fully ported head, tall cam with a full roller valve train.....a man that sticks 360 cranks in 318 blocks to make homebrewed 350ci strokers with ported 1.92" valved 302 casting heads and does it just for fun, a guy that builds 8000+ rpm 304 ci SBM's for class racing, has Hillborn mechanical injection setups for BBM's sitting around, a few flatheads with two pot intakes and aluminum heads because he thinks they're kinda cool......a man that digs 53-54 Studebakers and likes the '55 Plymouth better than the '56 because the '55 doesn't have fins same as me......well hell.....I guess he'll just have to do.
We got started talking, spent about three hours shooting the breeze and discussing a bunch of tech stuff. Cool guy in an off the beaten path old shop with cool stuff everywhere. As it turns out this man used to build race winning engines for Jim Hall Racing back in the day.
He's decking and squaring the block, chamfering the head bolt holes to compensate for deck distortion that apparently is a possible issue only on 360 blocks, checking the mains and cam tunnel for straight, and doing the bores with a special hone finish he developed from his years of racing research that promotes sealing and reduces ring wear and friction. Should be good enough for an 'ol truck motor.
Long as he finishes my block first, this will be the last hotrod engine I'll ever build. If it blows up I'll stick a reman engine in it and call it a day.And hopefully he won't die on you. ☺
I wonder if the studs from a 241 might work? That’s what I used for my Dana 300 since the originals were too short for the NV4500 flange.After more consideration I don't think I'll worry too much about it since they didn't deem a dowel necessary on the Borg Warner case. Think I'll build a stout brace between the trans mount bolts and the t-case, locktite the the studs, use locknuts and call it good. With close to 500lbft and a 4.71 1st gear the 208 will probably scatter before it has the chance to worm loose anyway.
Gonna see if ARP offers some that will work.I wonder if the studs from a 241 might work? That’s what I used for my Dana 300 since the originals were too short for the NV4500 flange.
Since I do not have the money or space, I am living some of my dreams through this thread, and a few others.