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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I`ve got an `86 RC with power door locks, they locks haven`t worked since i`ve gotten it. The solenoids/actuators were froze. I replaced them, and they still don`t work. I replaced the door lock relay yesterday, still not working. Seems that the relay is not getting enough juice. It used to click hard, but now just a small click.Is there another relay that feeds this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
TheBigSgt said:
Trace out the wiring.
Is there another relay? I have the actuators linkage unhooked, it just clicks under the dash. It used to have a strong click, now it doesn`t. The drivers door switch was borken as well, It`s back together now, but not sure if it`s working either. both sides make a click sound and I get 10-12 volts out of both leads, seems something is amiss.
 

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hey my 90 w150 has the same problem sometimes they work sometimes they dont, along with my windows the drivers is ok but the passengers takes forever and sometimes stops 1/2 way.
 

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How's your battery and cables? Up to snuff and nice and clean? You need solid power to the relay. first check your battery voltage with a meter and write it down. you should have near the same at the relay. The relay must have a good ground..it appears to be grounded through its case. The door switches themselves must be in good shape internally and the wiring connectors on them must be clean. the door lock motors/solenoids get their ground from the door. Make sure there mounting surface is clean.

 

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look in the how to section at the alarm install

the door locks use a reverse polarity system which is a little difficult to understand but that how to expains it pretty well.

good luck

Pat
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
prospector1 said:
Disconnect the whole mess, the will always give you problems
Actually I am, I bought a kit on ebay, and will just unhook everything else.The prior actuators were 2 wire and then the grounded themselves too, the replacement ones do not. Actually, they stopped working when i disconnected the 2d one. The new "kit" was only 24.95.
 

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I had the same problem on my 81. There was another ground wire that hooked on to the bracket the relay hooks to (??) Put that back on and they worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I gave up, i bought an aftermarket kit, however i need the linkage from the "plunger" the runs down to the release, mine runs into a switch, that doesN`T control the whole mess. Anyone wanna part with some of those linkages?
 

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Ok, I don't understand... You want the linkages without the switches? I think it would be easier (as long as both switches work, of course) to wire your aftermarket switches to them, and even use the stock solenoid wiring. You just have to put in a different relay pack under the dash. You can make it yourself with 2 standard 30/87a 5 wire relays. Wire them up like so... (colors are correct)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
My original soleniods were froze. I bought some 2 wire actuators, that work, just not with this system. I bought a new relay, thinking that was the culprit. wrong again. I could replace the actuators with the original solenoids for about $140 each. forget that, i bought a kit off ebay, a complete kit. The switch is IN the actuator. My problem is the linkage from the plunger ONLY triggers the Dodge switch, it does not physically connect to the lock linkage. I need the linkage from a Dodge WITHOUT the power door locks, as the actuators attach to that. When you lift the plunger on these, it unlocks both doors. It has all the wiring and switches, it just won`t work on my plungers since they ONLY attach to the Dodge switch.
 

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Now if you're going to be putting in an alarm, find where the LIGHT GREEN wire from the switches gets 12v, cut it off, and ground it. (switch side, unless you like fireworks ;D) and wire it like this:
 

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crashman said:
My original soleniods were froze. I bought some 2 wire actuators, that work, just not with this system. I bought a new relay, thinking that was the culprit. wrong again. I could replace the actuators with the original solenoids for about $140 each. forget that, i bought a kit off ebay, a complete kit. The switch is IN the actuator. My problem is the linkage from the plunger ONLY triggers the Dodge switch, it does not physically connect to the lock linkage. I need the linkage from a Dodge WITHOUT the power door locks, as the actuators attach to that. When you lift the plunger on these, it unlocks both doors. It has all the wiring and switches, it just won`t work on my plungers since they ONLY attach to the Dodge switch.
You should have the same system I had on my '85.. The locks will work manually, there's just play in the plunger because of the switch, but it is physically linked (unless someone monkeyed with it). Now you're saying these new actuators have switches built in? They'd have to be 4-wire then.. 2 wire actuators need an external switch. I'm not real familiar with the 4 wire jobs, but if they have an external switch, it can be wired to the stock switches too. Let me research..

Matt {peace}
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
TaZMaNiaK said:
crashman said:
My original soleniods were froze. I bought some 2 wire actuators, that work, just not with this system. I bought a new relay, thinking that was the culprit. wrong again. I could replace the actuators with the original solenoids for about $140 each. forget that, i bought a kit off ebay, a complete kit. The switch is IN the actuator. My problem is the linkage from the plunger ONLY triggers the Dodge switch, it does not physically connect to the lock linkage. I need the linkage from a Dodge WITHOUT the power door locks, as the actuators attach to that. When you lift the plunger on these, it unlocks both doors. It has all the wiring and switches, it just won`t work on my plungers since they ONLY attach to the Dodge switch.
You should have the same system I had on my '85.. The locks will work manually, there's just play in the plunger because of the switch, but it is physically linked (unless someone monkeyed with it). Now you're saying these new actuators have switches built in? They'd have to be 4-wire then.. 2 wire actuators need an external switch. I'm not real familiar with the 4 wire jobs, but if they have an external switch, it can be wired to the stock switches too. Let me research..

Matt {peace}
The plunger only triggers the switch, there is NO linkage to the lock from there. The lock(key) does have linkage.
 

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Hi all,
I'm new here and have searched the site for help and thought I would reply to this thread as its basically the same issue as I am having.
Truck is a 1986 D150 and having issues with the power locks not working. I have removed and cleaned/tested the switches at the plungers, have removed lock mechanism on the doors and cleaned and lubed so all moves freely.  The power lock actuators are siezed so I replaced the actuators with generic 2 wire actuators. After installing new actuators (tested before install) nothing happened.  I then searched and found this thread and read that the oem actuators are grounded through the door so I reinstalled old actuators (left linkage disconnected) and spliced in the new actuators and this did help as the new actuators would work on the door the plunger was being moved and the relay under dash would click but other door wouldn't fully work. (Ground at relay is good). Now to my question,
I have bought a new relay but I'm concerned that the siezed oem actuators might cause damage having them spliced in ( but not connected to linkage) ?? Or will the new generic 2 wire actuators work without the grounding to the door through the old actuators?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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Alberta71rt said:
Hi all,
I'm new here and have searched the site for help and thought I would reply to this thread as its basically the same issue as I am having.
Truck is a 1986 D150 and having issues with the power locks not working. I have removed and cleaned/tested the switches at the plungers, have removed lock mechanism on the doors and cleaned and lubed so all moves freely. The power lock actuators are siezed so I replaced the actuators with generic 2 wire actuators. After installing new actuators (tested before install) nothing happened. I then searched and found this thread and read that the oem actuators are grounded through the door so I reinstalled old actuators (left linkage disconnected) and spliced in the new actuators and this did help as the new actuators would work on the door the plunger was being moved and the relay under dash would click but other door wouldn't fully work. (Ground at relay is good). Now to my question,
I have bought a new relay but I'm concerned that the siezed oem actuators might cause damage having them spliced in ( but not connected to linkage) ?? Or will the new generic 2 wire actuators work without the grounding to the door through the old actuators?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
howdy and welcome / because this is an old post l have reported it and they will start a new for you , also read the link below

https://ramchargercentral.com/vehicle-help/rh-door-lock-actuator-help!/msg3572746/#msg3572746
 

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Nothing wrong with posting in an old thread as long as they are asking general questions and not asking for specific info from a poster who hasn't been on the forum in years.
 

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Thanks,
I have read over that thread and looked at the wiring diagram Dodgeboys posted
and shows the doorlock solenoid grounded to the door but I'm not sure with the solenoids being siezed and the new solenoids spliced into old will that cause damage to my new relay if I install it?
 
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