Your linkage could be siezed as well, check that out.
Is there another relay? I have the actuators linkage unhooked, it just clicks under the dash. It used to have a strong click, now it doesn`t. The drivers door switch was borken as well, It`s back together now, but not sure if it`s working either. both sides make a click sound and I get 10-12 volts out of both leads, seems something is amiss.TheBigSgt said:Trace out the wiring.
Actually I am, I bought a kit on ebay, and will just unhook everything else.The prior actuators were 2 wire and then the grounded themselves too, the replacement ones do not. Actually, they stopped working when i disconnected the 2d one. The new "kit" was only 24.95.prospector1 said:Disconnect the whole mess, the will always give you problems
You should have the same system I had on my '85.. The locks will work manually, there's just play in the plunger because of the switch, but it is physically linked (unless someone monkeyed with it). Now you're saying these new actuators have switches built in? They'd have to be 4-wire then.. 2 wire actuators need an external switch. I'm not real familiar with the 4 wire jobs, but if they have an external switch, it can be wired to the stock switches too. Let me research..crashman said:My original soleniods were froze. I bought some 2 wire actuators, that work, just not with this system. I bought a new relay, thinking that was the culprit. wrong again. I could replace the actuators with the original solenoids for about $140 each. forget that, i bought a kit off ebay, a complete kit. The switch is IN the actuator. My problem is the linkage from the plunger ONLY triggers the Dodge switch, it does not physically connect to the lock linkage. I need the linkage from a Dodge WITHOUT the power door locks, as the actuators attach to that. When you lift the plunger on these, it unlocks both doors. It has all the wiring and switches, it just won`t work on my plungers since they ONLY attach to the Dodge switch.
The plunger only triggers the switch, there is NO linkage to the lock from there. The lock(key) does have linkage.TaZMaNiaK said:You should have the same system I had on my '85.. The locks will work manually, there's just play in the plunger because of the switch, but it is physically linked (unless someone monkeyed with it). Now you're saying these new actuators have switches built in? They'd have to be 4-wire then.. 2 wire actuators need an external switch. I'm not real familiar with the 4 wire jobs, but if they have an external switch, it can be wired to the stock switches too. Let me research..crashman said:My original soleniods were froze. I bought some 2 wire actuators, that work, just not with this system. I bought a new relay, thinking that was the culprit. wrong again. I could replace the actuators with the original solenoids for about $140 each. forget that, i bought a kit off ebay, a complete kit. The switch is IN the actuator. My problem is the linkage from the plunger ONLY triggers the Dodge switch, it does not physically connect to the lock linkage. I need the linkage from a Dodge WITHOUT the power door locks, as the actuators attach to that. When you lift the plunger on these, it unlocks both doors. It has all the wiring and switches, it just won`t work on my plungers since they ONLY attach to the Dodge switch.
Matt {peace}
howdy and welcome / because this is an old post l have reported it and they will start a new for you , also read the link belowAlberta71rt said:Hi all,
I'm new here and have searched the site for help and thought I would reply to this thread as its basically the same issue as I am having.
Truck is a 1986 D150 and having issues with the power locks not working. I have removed and cleaned/tested the switches at the plungers, have removed lock mechanism on the doors and cleaned and lubed so all moves freely. The power lock actuators are siezed so I replaced the actuators with generic 2 wire actuators. After installing new actuators (tested before install) nothing happened. I then searched and found this thread and read that the oem actuators are grounded through the door so I reinstalled old actuators (left linkage disconnected) and spliced in the new actuators and this did help as the new actuators would work on the door the plunger was being moved and the relay under dash would click but other door wouldn't fully work. (Ground at relay is good). Now to my question,
I have bought a new relay but I'm concerned that the siezed oem actuators might cause damage having them spliced in ( but not connected to linkage) ?? Or will the new generic 2 wire actuators work without the grounding to the door through the old actuators?Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks