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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Black fuseable wire  of the 4 wires that goes to the triangle overmolded connect that then connects to the single black wire that goes to the battery burned out.  There is not enough wire left by connector to replace fuseable link

I cut our connector and solder all 4 wires to one- tape and shrink tube

or come up with some other connection-  Any thoughts????

I think the of the problem that caused fuseable link to go was a really bad ground wire from battery terminal to engine
 

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If you're not in a rush, a PDC from a 94-97 Dodge Ram works perfect and looks like it was made to fit these trucks... It isn't that hard to adapt and it totally eliminates the fusible links and odd style relays (with Bosch style ones).

Just something to consider...

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok-  fuseble link replaced on black wire  baterry still not charging

new alternator that was bench tested
new voltage regualtor
battery was trickle chargered

continuity from alternator to battery-  I checked all wires from alternator to battery

battery still test around 12 and continues to drop while engine is running

What am I missing?
 

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Rsails said:
Ok- fuseble link replaced on black wire baterry still not charging

new alternator that was bench tested
new voltage regualtor
battery was trickle chargered

continuity from alternator to battery- I checked all wires from alternator to battery

battery still test around 12 and continues to drop while engine is running

What am I missing?
Have you probed the wiring at the regulator? Should be getting battery voltage at the top/I post and field voltage coming out.

https://alternatorparts.com/img/chrysler_external_voltage_regulator_wiring.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
All fixed- I hope

The 4 wire connector by the alternator black wire was fried.

Replaced connector and now getting 14.8 at the battery

Thanks for the advise
 

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make sure the new terminals are snug/tight. That may have been from arcing
 

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pc1p said:
If you're not in a rush, a PDC from a 94-97 Dodge Ram works perfect and looks like it was made to fit these trucks... It isn't that hard to adapt and it totally eliminates the fusible links and odd style relays (with Bosch style ones).

Just something to consider...

I'm confused here, where does the starter cable go?
 

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moparmike72 said:
I'm confused here, where does the starter cable go?
It's not pictured here (this was an in-process shot) but the starter cable goes directly to battery terminal...
 

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I personally prefer a stud top battery.  Automotive battery terminals, no matter what the design, are a shit-show of piss-poor design and decades of uselessness.
 

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moparmike72 said:
No, definitely not...

I use these on everything: Fastronix Top Post Military Spec... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LLWKXV6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

When properly crimped (I'll tin and solder for good conductivity too), quality terminals withstand hundreds of pounds of static strain. We use these on high voltage, high amperage compressors without issue and I've never had any issues in any appplications I've used them for.
 
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