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That's why I have AAA. $100/yr is worth it! LOL
I too have AAA for the sole reason being my ramcharger lol. Feels like I’ve used it for every vehicle BUT my RC. RC has been my most reliable vehicle as well as my oldest.
 

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I too have AAA for the sole reason being my ramcharger lol. Feels like I’ve used it for every vehicle BUT my RC. RC has been my most reliable vehicle as well as my oldest.
I miss the gadgets, but overall there is less that can go wrong. I agree.

It seems like a lot of the work I do on the family's cars are electronic, things like door lock actuators, power window motors, power door lock switches, stuff like that (aside from regular maintenance, of course).

I've done tons of work on mine, and there just isn't a lot to go wrong unless the engine throws a rod or the tranny starts slipping. If something does go wrong, typically it's a pretty cheap fix.
 
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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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I too have AAA for the sole reason being my ramcharger lol. Feels like I’ve used it for every vehicle BUT my RC. RC has been my most reliable vehicle as well as my oldest.
Like I said to RCCADMAN - if you want reliable, buy an old Dodge! 👍
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The ignition coil tested ok, so not the problem. The starter turns the engine, carb is getting gas, but no spark. Someone suggested the electronic ignition module. Would the starter turn if that was the issue? When it does fire, runs perfect for a few minutes, then just suddenly cuts off. No warning, no sputtering. Old gas? Seems like it would struggle with old/bad gas. Gas in tank is about 6 months old. I am perplexed.
 

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Old gas will have NOTHING to do with not having spark. Fix spark first. Also, check the resistance across the distributor pick up. That's the trigger for the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I replaced the electronic ignition module (see pics of old and new one). Still not getting spark. I am uploading a video of engine trying to start in case anyone spots something I am missing. So it isn't the ballast, the ignition coil, or the electronic ignition module since those are all new. Plugs and wires are less than a year old. It is definitely getting gas in the carb.
Window Wood Water Motor vehicle Rectangle
Window Wood Water Motor vehicle Rectangle
heres a link to video of it trying to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I have not tested the resistance on the distributor yet. Pretty clueless of how to do it, even with the instructions above. Going to have to figure it out. Gotta find my ohmeter after our last move.
 

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Make sure that ICM is getting good ground contact to the body. The chassis of the ICM is the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Still no spark. I sprayed a little starter fluid in the air cleaner and still got nothing. When I went to check the distributor resistance, discovered that one of the clips that hold down the distributor cap had broken off, so cap wasn't tightly held down. Thinking that could be the issue. I see no aftermarket clip to replace it, so unless there is a good rig to try as a temporary fix, it looks like I have to replace the distributor no matter what. Any particular one better than another? And for finding top dead center before replacing it, I see no marks on the harmonic balancer. Do I need to remove any pulleys/parts to be able to see the marks? Some posts referenced a label, and others referenced notches, but none had removing any parts to be able to see them.

If I need to use a timing light or other device to locate TDC, what is the simplist yet still accurate one to use?

Sorry I am clueless on this. First experience with this type of an issue. FSM is somewhat vague at times because it assumes you work in an auto place so leaves off tips and advice. And youtube doesn't have much specific to 70s Dodges, so the Chevy, Ford and later model dodge videos aren't very helpful.
 

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WHOOOH Chryslers use a "screw driver tip on the Dist" so you DO NOT hafta deal with finding TDC or realigning any gears , all you need to do is mark or remember where the rotor pointed and install the new Dist in the same spot

Automotive lighting Auto part Tool Machine Engineering
 

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If you lose track or pulled it out, pull the number one spark plug, put your finger in the hole and have someone bump over the engine with the key until it pushes your finger out. That will get you close, and you can point the rotor at the number one spark plug wire on the distributor cap and from there you will probably be able to get it started and then time it.

The distributor in my RC was probably original and pretty nasty when I bought it, so I replaced it with a Napa distributor at a decent price and it's been working great so far. If I do more engine work then it's worth an upgrade, but the Napa distributor is working great.
 

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Looks like you have new metal at the fire wall behind the ignition module, is that sealant possibly preventing a good ground to chassis?
 

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I replaced the electronic ignition module (see pics of old and new one). Still not getting spark. I am uploading a video of engine trying to start in case anyone spots something I am missing. So it isn't the ballast, the ignition coil, or the electronic ignition module since those are all new. Plugs and wires are less than a year old. It is definitely getting gas in the carb. View attachment 632569 View attachment 632569 heres a link to video of it trying to start.

on the last key shut off l swear the engine fired for a second / if thats the case then your missing the START signal to the coil from the starter relay
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
A little confused on that. So where would that failure occur? Wouldn't I get no action at all if the starter relay is bad? Or are you saying that the coil isn't getting the signal from the starter relay, so failure is in the wiring between them? Or is just the part of the relay bad that sends the signal? Or could it be because the distributor cap is missing one hold down clip, so causing it to not have the correct gap and spark isn't working?

No matter what I have to replace the distributor because of the broken hold down clip. I think I may have screwed up. I ordered this Cardone distributor, but just saw that is an HEI distributor, so I am guessing it isn't actually the right part unless I do an HEI conversion? Cardone 84-3890 New HEI Electronic Distributor and Module https://a.co/d/grpRfob. Any suggestions for the correct distributor that is reasonably priced? Or how difficult is the HEI conversion?
 

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the starter relay bypasses the ballast resister to give the coil full power for starting , follow the pink wire

as a test run a jumper from the battery positive to coil positive and see if it starts

 
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