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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So attempting to bleed brakes on the D. When cracking a fitting loose on the front, the pedal will go to the floor. Crack one loose on the rear and it will go down some but not to the floor...what am i missing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wife is my pedal operator...she is doing her best but i can wrap my hand around her ankle and overlap a finger tip. She tiny.
I cracked the fittings loose at the t on the axle. Didnt get any air and opened them 3 times each. She said the pedal moved farther down this time.
Say, that t on the axle has a big ole bleeder that more or less holds the t to the axle. If it doesnt bleed the t, why is it there?
 

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Say, that t on the axle has a big ole bleeder that more or less holds the t to the axle. If it doesnt bleed the t, why is it there?
That is not a bleeder. It is a special hollow bolt that is an air vent for the axle housing. Yes it holds the T fitting to the axle but otherwise it is not involved with the brakes.

Bucky
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So ive bleed the crap out of this thing and cant for the life of me get the pedal to bottom out doing the rears. Ive cracked from the proportioning valve to the t to the cylinders. It did occur to me that it has a hydraulic brake controller that is plumbed into the rear of the master cylinder. Could this somehow be an issue?
Also decided to replace the master for good measure.
 

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It did occur to me that it has a hydraulic brake controller that is plumbed into the rear of the master cylinder. Could this somehow be an issue?
Yes - this section of line may have air in it.
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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1. Disk or drum on the rear?
2. When she pushes on the pedal are you getting a strong steady stream with good pressure coming out of the bleeders on each side?
3. Is it power brakes?
4. Have you tried with the engine running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Drum, steady stream both sides, power breaks and no not with the engine running.
To recap when i got to the front they bleed well and the pedal went to the floor. This weekend im going to pull the wheels off and pull the drums. Everything looks dry on the backing plates and no sign of leakage otherwise.
 

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Has it been sitting long, and did you have major leaks in the system before you started working on the brake system? Maybe the proportioning valve is stuck, and not allowing much pressure to the rear.
 

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when bleeding the rear brakes the pedal NEVER go's to the floor as the front brakes "catch" and stop the pedal movement [ the front should do the same thing if the rear brakes are adjusted correctly ]
 

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I agree with DODGEBOYS 100% and forgot to mention that also.
 

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And you're supposed to bleed the rears before the fronts anyway. I use a home made brake bleeding bottle. No assistant required. No air getting sucked back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It hasnt been registered since 2012..so im sure it hasnt seen much movement. Didnt even think about fronts catching before rear...just thought if the system was opened at any point, the pedal would sink to the floor.
Gues i didnt mention my sequence, i did start at the passenger rear. I just meant the front bled fine in comparison to rear not that i started there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So i understand the front and rear are separated at the master. If the front system is totally closed how could the front "catch" when doing rears and vice-versa? At any rate today or tomorrow im taking the drums off to inspect anyway.
 

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Love these if you haven't tried one. Makes it an easy, one-person job. I suck out what is in the master cylinder, refill with clean and then pump it through with pressure. You can just open the nipple and stop when it gets clear.


You can get different adapters for different types of master cylinders and use it for all of your cars.
 

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I made a bleeder out of a mason jar and surgical tubing. Then I go in and pump the brakes until I don't see any more air in the surgical tube.
 
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So i understand the front and rear are separated at the master. If the front system is totally closed how could the front "catch" when doing rears and vice-versa? At any rate today or tomorrow im taking the drums off to inspect anyway.
In simple terms, (Not using real numbers). If the total stroke is two inches (1 inch for front, an 1 for rear). If one side is bled (no air), the most stroke you will get is the 1 inch when you open the rear line. Under ideal conditions, the brake pedal will hit the floor just after the total stroke. That way if one end leaks, you still have the full stroke of the other end. So ideally, you should out stroke the master before you hit the floor (ideally, not real world). Also, ideally you are not using the full stroke to bleed the brakes, that way you are not hitting the end of the stroke inside the master.

Again, those are not real numbers. The front end has a longer stroke then the rear. IIRC, the total stroke is around 3 inches. That is the stroke of the master, not the distance the pedal end travels.
 
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I made a bleeder out of a mason jar and surgical tubing. Then I go in and pump the brakes until I don't see any more air in the surgical tube.
When I do a full brake job, I will use a piece of tubing, and hook it up after I finish a corner, then just leave it open to gravity bleed while I do the next corner, while watching the master level. I go through more brake fluid that way, but it generally needs flushed anyway. By the time I ma done, it generally does not take much bleeding.
 
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