[shanker]

I'm hoping this will possibly help someone (I suspect this may be a good workaround for the later model Ramcharger to put a modern fuel sending unit in them easier)

I had a vapor lock problem with my Ramcharger, so I got a Wix 33041 (Wix Filters 33041 WIX Filters Fuel Filters | Summit Racing) and used the factory Fuel Tank Vent (which goes to the charcoal canister) as a return line coming off the vapor port which cured my vapor lock related issues (hard starts when hot, stumbling when idling in traffic on 100* days, etc)

What I didn't intentionally mean to happen, was to end up pressurizing the fuel tank when parking the truck, so I started researching way's to add a dedicated return port, so I could run the vent line as intended again.

I ended up getting one of these ( Fuel Tank Return Port Kit ) which is essentially made with all Holley parts, but sold as a kit on this website.

I dropped the tank and no matter how I tried, I realized I was not going to be able to install it up by the factory vent line because I wasn't going to be able to get tools in the tank to tighten the nuts down.

I started doing some research and found this product which would allow me to create a 6" removable port on the tank ( Stainless Steel 8 ) I did a bunch of reading on these, and this particular method is very popular on boats and some diesel tanks, to allow tank access to clean them. I suspect that one of these could also be used to mount a late model / aftermarket fuel sending unit like this one ( Holley Sniper 19-350 Sniper Diecast 340 LPH In-Tank RetroFit Fuel Module w/Return ) and also have room for a fuel level sending unit ( Holley Sniper EFI 19-162 Fuel Gauge Sending Units ).

In the future, when/if I go EFI, all I'll have to do is get another 8" plate made up and drill it out for the sending unit & float for the EFI system.


as of 5/2/22, I'm currently at a hold up waiting on my second fuel return bulkhead I ordered to be delivered as I'm going to use it for the vent as the original vent line grommet is extremely dry rotted and I think this is a better method that's future proof to make it all come together.

The hardest part so far was drilling out all the holes for the cover because they have to be PERFECT in order to align with the inner ring. The part is cut/machined for incredibly tight tolerances.

Once I'm done, I'll come back , update this post, and arrange the pictures a bit better perhaps.

 

[shanker]

As a side note, I ran the tank down to where it started stumbling before dropping the tank, I still had 4.5 gallons of fuel in it.

I'm tempted to put a HydraMat in it as it would allow me to use all of the space in the tank.

Holley 16-101 15" x 8" HydraMat®, Cross

The amazing HydraMat® is Holley's patent pending design that solves the problems associated with traditional fuel pick-ups in stock fuel tanks as well as racing fuel cells. During hard cornering, acceleration, stopping, inclines, and low fuel conditions fuel runs away from the fuel pick up which...

www.holley.com

 

[shanker]

I also have to give a two thumbs up to 521 Restorations. I purchased my sending unit from them in 2019, have only driven the truck for 450 miles in the last year since getting it running, and after the first tank of fuel, the float failed. I emailed them, received a pretty prompt text message reply, and he shipped out a new float, gasket, and pickup filter sock and no cost to me as part of their warranty.

I purchased my sending unit from 521 Restoration rather than Vans auto because they advertised a lifetime warranty, and they honored it.

 

[shanker]

Got the additional bulkhead in today. I stuck it right into the OEM vent hole in the tank, but on the bottom I used a stainless cable tie to have the vent be 3/8"ths an inch below the top of the tank to prevent fuel to getting pushed into it.

 

[shanker]

The tank is buttoned up, I tweaked the sending unit just a tad so that the pickup is 1/4" off the bottom of the tank rather than buy a Holley Hydramat this go round.

I really thing that a solution with a port like this, would be perfect for those of ya'll with the 89-93 trucks that have irreplaceable sending units. You'd be able to drop a Holley Retro-fit assembly and Tanks Inc Float sending unit right into them.

Next up is to run the Ni-Copp line down the frame rail and secure it for the return.

 

[shanker]

thanks @jungle that mean's a lot coming from the guy who builds the absolute best tank solution for Ramchargers. I'd have ordered one if I had the funds for it. (side note, if you want any measurements to see if your tank would fit in a 74 Model, now's the time to ask me to take whatever measurements you may need since my tank is out)

But onto today's struggle session is making a tad more clearance for the tank by modifying the cross members above the tank.

Neither the center crossmember nor the rear most interfered with the new plate, but it did make contact with the bolt heads. I didn't want to risk vibration and rubbing creating problems, so I trimmed the rear crossmember a tad and plan on removing the rivets and then bolting the center crossmember on top of the frame rail which will give me some clearance. If I can manage to get those last two rivets out I'll be close to getting it done, I just don't have a good hammer & punch swinging angle on them doing it upside down. I used my U-Joint Press to remove the rear two.

 

[shanker]

Made a bit more progress today, frame rivets are the DEVIL!! (I'm sure @ProjectM880 would agree )

But I busted the rivets off the crossmember above the tank (not sure why the engineers put it there), stripped, poorly painted) and bolted it back on above the frame rails. This should give me the clearance I want. If not I may put a few thick washers between it and the frame rail to space it further up)

 

[shanker]

Finally got the tank back in the truck, lines hooked up, and got the truck running off the tank again (but with 4 gallons in it). Everything seems to be working, but I'm currently debating on wether or not I want to go fill the tank up at 4.12/gallon (today's price).