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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 85 rc 4bbl 318 727 auto,  the issue is that it is shifting into second and third gears at too quickly and subsequently is doggish, it doesn't kick down unless i really get on it, and even then wants to jump into 3rd, on the flip side, when i am slowing down, the tranny doesn't shift down quickly enough and the motor will start wanting to sputter because it's still in 3rd gear or second, whatever it happens to be.. it doesn't die all the way, and if i come to a complete stop, it will go into 1st gear.. all gears work perfectly when shifted manually, and i can feel where the transmission should be shifting,,, i would sure like to have some of that torque back that i am loosing at the low rpms... any ideas out there??? is it possible it's just a linkage adjustment or something like that? :-\
 

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I'm pretty sure your kickdown rod is either missing or way out of adjustment.  First make sure you have one.  The next thing is since you have a 4bbl that I'm going to assume was not original to the 318 I would check to see how they modified the kickdown for the 4bbl carb.  With the carb at WOT the kickdown linkage should be all the way back.  The problem with sticking a 4 bbl carb on a original 2bbl engine is that the throttle shaft is several inches further forward then on a 2bbl.  The stock 2bbl kickdown will not reach correctly without modification.  The easiest setup is the Lokar kickdown cable.
 

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I would also recommend the bouchillon performance kicked down set up.  I also believe its the kickdown missing or out of alignment.  You can actually damage your transmission if you continue to run it like this.  I would try and resolve this as soon as you can.
 

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no kick down or misadjusted kick down = blown tranny / get it fixed fast
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
when you say the kickdown rod, are you referring to the metal arm that connects at the throttle and goes to the lever on the trans, if so, i indeed have one of those and it is attached, there is a little play left in that lever(on the tranny), meaning i can push it about 1/2 inch or so towards the rear of the truck.. shoud there be no play?.. also in addition to the throttle cable, what is the cable that is attached to that same throttle arm and goes to canister on the wheel well? could that need to be adjusted, i notice it only engages for about an inch or so at wot...  i have also never had a 3 speed auto tranny before, and am not sure at what speeds it should be shifting on acceleration, and cruising, i mean if i am going 30 miles in hour through town, should the tranny be shifted all the way into 3rd?
 

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nojos said:
when you say the kickdown rod, are you referring to the metal arm that connects at the throttle and goes to the lever on the trans, if so, i indeed have one of those and it is attached, there is a little play left in that lever(on the tranny), meaning i can push it about 1/2 inch or so towards the rear of the truck.. shoud there be no play?.. also in addition to the throttle cable, what is the cable that is attached to that same throttle arm and goes to canister on the wheel well? could that need to be adjusted, i notice it only engages for about an inch or so at wot... i have also never had a 3 speed auto tranny before, and am not sure at what speeds it should be shifting on acceleration, and cruising, i mean if i am going 30 miles in hour through town, should the tranny be shifted all the way into 3rd?
That canister on the wheelwell is the cruise control servo, it doesnt affect the transmission throttle linkage. The transmission rod needs to be adjusted so that the rear edge of the slot just reaches the carb linkage pin when the rod is lightly held forward(hot idle position, with the choke open). 30 miles an hour in 3rd gear is normal with the throttle barely open, it should shift down at that speed when you push on the gas.
 

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Moparmikes way to adjust the linkages is probably the right way for the factory but If this is a 4 bbl conversion the right way in my opinion is to hold the carb at WOT.  Just as the carb reaches WOT the trans lever should also be at its most rearward position.  With this adjustment there shouldn't be any gap at the rear of the slot on the linkage that reaches the carb.  If there is then the linkage needs to be modified(lengthened).
 

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chrysler300le said:
Moparmikes way to adjust the linkages is probably the right way for the factory but If this is a 4 bbl conversion the right way in my opinion is to hold the carb at WOT. Just as the carb reaches WOT the trans lever should also be at its most rearward position. With this adjustment there shouldn't be any gap at the rear of the slot on the linkage that reaches the carb. If there is then the linkage needs to be modified(lengthened).
Adjusting the linkage at WOT is a good way to make sure nothing gets bent by bottoming out the linkage. After a test drive the linkage can always be fine tuned a bit if the trans shifts too late or downshifts too early.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i used the wot version and it seems to be alot better!!!  hallelujah, power!!!!!  thanks for everything guys... the adjustment was about 1/2  inch or so, but it is shifting just about right,, i'm going to drive it for a day or two and see if it needs to be adjusted anymore or less....but for now,, success!!!
 

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glad it worked, i was going to suggest the lokar kickdown cable-throttle cable setup.
 

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Glad adjusting the kickdown got you some power.  Like DB mentioned, though, it could be masking another issue.  Do a service on your tranny (fluid & filter) as soon as you get the chance.  Having a kick-down out of adjustment is hard on the tranny to begin with, and the condition of the old fluid & filter will let you know if there is anything else going on in there.  8)
 

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I'm going to add to this that adjusting the linkage is not the way to control shift points.  Shift points are controlled by the governor in the rear of the tranny.  Using the kickdown as a way to change shift points will shorten life of tranny or put linkage in a bind. 

Did adjust the linkage down by the transmission?  That is the proper spot to adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i did do the adjustment at the tranny, loosened the nut on the rod, moved it forward a little bit,  i'm going to take it to a tranny guy and just have him look to see if it needs some other attention, thanks for the advise, i really appreciate it!!
 

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chrysler300le said:
I'm going to add to this that adjusting the linkage is not the way to control shift points. Shift points are controlled by the governor in the rear of the tranny. Using the kickdown as a way to change shift points will shorten life of tranny or put linkage in a bind.
X2.
You don't fiddle with it, you set it as it should be and that's it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
so it upshifts fine, either at easy throttle, or heavy throttle, seems smooth, feels really good, but it seems like when i am braking to a stop, that it doesn't shift down into second or first until i am almost stopped, if i accelerate, it kicks down like it should , maybe this is normal? ???  if i am coming down a switchback pass, and i am braking to a switchback, should the truck shift down to increase rpms or do you have to manually shift down? it's probably a dumb question, but i hear there is a section for that here too..... 
 

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Sounds normal.  I don't ever really recall any torqueflites I've ever had downshifting while slowing down.  The 518 in my 93 Ram does downshift when slowing down.  It has a shift kit though.  It feels un-normal that it does downshift when I'm slowing down but I don't mind since the brakes on this truck suck.
 

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just wanted to post up on this one. I have read all over the net how to adjust your kickdown linkage.

they say hold WOT, move the linkage back against the stop and snug it down...leaving a *small* amount of freeplay at the end so you dont bend anything.

Then there is the way the FSM tells you to do it. At idle, all wheels off the ground. loosen the set screw, make sure everything is clean and bur free so it can slide. the spring will put it where it wants to go, lock down the screw.

I find adjusting it the second way, you are left with a tiny amount of slack at the end, just like they say you should.

However, the AMOUNT of slack at the end seems to be basically the critical adjustment....

having adjusted mine both ways, i can say hands down it drives MUCH better if you follow the procedure outlined in the FSM.



 

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this might be of some help.....

 
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