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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought I had fixed my main trans leak, but I was mistaken. The seal on the shift linkage is leaking bad, real bad. How hard is this to replace. The dealer supposedly ordered me one, and I'm picking it up today. Is it a PITA, or easy. Please say I don't have to drop the pan again?,,,,Cruisin
 

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It is easy but you will have to drop the valve body to do it. Once you get the valve body out shoudl only take a couple of minutes to do. I would recommend when you drop the valve body you take the E clip out of the parking lock lever and let it hang and then just put the clip in when you are done.
 

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if yer lucky and have 90* picks and stuff you can get it out / l,ve done it / other than that you gotta do like dodge 85 rc said
 

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It is not a big deal to drop the pan (this would be a good time to install a drain plug, so you don't have to taste that nasty ATF next time) and then the valve body. I use a large C-clamp to draw the new seal into it's bore. When these seals leak, they REALLY leak.

Also, DODGEBOYS, the degree symbol ° is alt 248. (hold down the alt key and type 248)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A large C-clamp? The seal they gave me looks like a 1/4" hole rubber washer with a channel in one side? Sounds like they gave me the wrong one, or did they? The reason I didn't want to drop the pan, is because I did that last week with the new filter and all. Although it is missing about a quart of fluid since then. If anything, it leaks even MORE now than last week.....,,,,Cruisin.
 

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Cruisin_RC said:
A large C-clamp? The seal they gave me looks like a 1/4" hole rubber washer with a channel in one side? Sounds like they gave me the wrong one, or did they? The reason I didn't want to drop the pan, is because I did that last week with the new filter and all. Although it is missing about a quart of fluid since then. If anything, it leaks even MORE now than last week.....,,,,Cruisin.
This is a perfect reason to add a drain plug, if you did, you could just drain all of the fluid into a clean container and re-use it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, is it the right seal though? I do not want to get knee deep in the valve body removal and all that junk, if it is not the right part?,,,,Cruisin
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Also installing a B&M Z-gate shifter, probably do all of this in the same day if possible.,,,,Cruisin someday
 

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Yes you have the right seal. When I changed mine I just found a socket that was about the right size and hammered it in, but my trans was also on my garage floor when I did it, not in the truck. But because of where it is in relation to the frame of the truck and stuff you might need to use a c clamp to press it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ahhh, okay. I kind of blew it off for this weekend. My brother is bringing his 68 Firebird over, for urethane bushings. Thanks for the help. Just to be sure though?? Does the channel face up, or down on the washer??,,,,Cruisin
 

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The channel will face down/inside, the more flat side faces up/out. When you drive the old one out with a hammer and a long screwdriver from below (the whole reason the valve body needs to come out), you will see how it's installed. Just drive the new one in from the top. BTW, how much did the stealership charge you? I seem to remember I got one from a tranny shop for next to nothing.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It was not that bad in my book. Under four bucks. I tend to think along the lines that the dealer has the best quality, and I do NOT want to do this again anytime soon. Maybe I can clean the trans up now, it awash in fluid about halfway up. Looks kinda sad, lol.,,,,Cruisin

And THANKS!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Heck, why not a shift kit while I'm at it. This is gonna add up, I can already tell, hehe.,,,,Cruisin
 

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Good decision.
 
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