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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So im looking for tranny parts and I found alot of goodies, but they all seem to wanna know if i have a lock up or non lock up transmission, Well I dunno so i cant order parts just yet, I did however get the "how to rebuild or modify the 727 torqueflite" book, got it from walmart.com for about $14 bucks,shipped 3$ cheaper than ebay for the same book shipped, so how do i figure out if i have a lock up or non lock up tranny, also I found a guy thru ebay who will sell a transgo manual shift kit for 59$ and a super master rebuild kit with Red Eagle friction discs and Kolene steels, and a kevlar band (dunno if these are good or not) for about 115$ shipped Also i have founds a site or 2 with other brands of clutches and bands, does anyone know which is best? tell me all you know about the 727 so i can rebuild mine better and stronger than it ever was before, :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
well right after i posted this i found the same question asked just a few posts down, I still dont know fer sure, so im still taking answers, I dont have the numbers handy so i dunno by them all i know now is its from a 76 RC and its between a 360 and a 203
 

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78 was first year for lock-up so you should have non lockup. I say should because you never know what some PO has done to something.
 

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If it's the original tranny in the `76 it's non lockup. When you take the converter off look at the input(inner shaft) if it is a lock up the inner shaft has to be hollow to alow fluid thru to lock the conv. There are other ways to tell but can't remember them at the moment. I have a Transgo kit, not the full manual, but it still gives great shifts.
 

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i believe you can tell by looking at the input shaft, if its not splined all the way to the end its a lockup, if it is...its not. (or i might be backwards, can anyone confirm?)
 

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AZ-Trailduster said:
i believe you can tell by looking at the input shaft, if its not splined all the way to the end its a lockup, if it is...its not. (or i might be backwards, can anyone confirm?)
Bingo, you are correct 8)
 

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snowflake, you have it backwards, in non lock-up mode the fluid is flowing through the hole in the input into the converter, in lock-up mode the pressure is released, allowing the clutch to engage.
 

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txs said:
snowflake, you have it backwards, in non lock-up mode the fluid is flowing through the hole in the input into the converter, in lock-up mode the pressure is released, allowing the clutch to engage.
Good to know, Thanks.
 

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Bill, early lock-ups were all hydraulic, sometime around 85 or so they went to electric activation on the lockup, called it part throttle unlock, later still before the 727s got the electric control. There is a hole in the case rearward from the shift lever hole in the case for the electrical units, I can't remeber how many wires, one or two, then the od units had 2 or three, depending on whether the od was lockup or not. Even later units are completely electric (no governor) with large hole and 12 pin connector.
 

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I pulled a tranny from a 87 R/C that had 1 extra wire on the rear of the tranny just behind the neutral safety switch... Thats a lockup version right... The R/C also had the computer in the fender...
 

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txs said:
Bill, early lock-ups were all hydraulic, sometime around 85 or so they went to electric activation on the lockup, called it part throttle unlock, later still before the 727s got the electric control. There is a hole in the case rearward from the shift lever hole in the case for the electrical units, I can't remeber how many wires, one or two, then the od units had 2 or three, depending on whether the od was lockup or not. Even later units are completely electric (no governor) with large hole and 12 pin connector.
Yep the OD units have 2 wires + & - the lock up is a 1 wire deal so the plugs will have the coresponding terminals
1 = lock op only
2 = OD only
3= all of the above
taz_man440 said:
I pulled a tranny from a 87 R/C that had 1 extra wire on the rear of the tranny just behind the neutral safety switch... Thats a lockup version right... The R/C also had the computer in the fender...
Correct
 

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so what's the answer to the parts queston? What's the best stuff to run? What would be the best mods to make? And what was the stall on a non-lock up?
 

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All I have ever used is factory stuff on the clutches and bands so I can't answer that one, get a 3.8 or 4.2 kd lever, get the 5 pinion steel front carrier and you might consider a bolt in over- running clutch (some call it a sprague). The new 5 plate front clutch is good also, there are a lot of parts for the 48re program that are good upgrades. The six pinion front and rear carriers are probably overkill. factory stalls are all over the place, depends on what you want to do with the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well txs, Im thinking my avatar pic at left pretty much sums up what i wanna do with my truck. and I still wanna hear more about what parts to use, and more about the selection of kickdown levers and what they do too
 

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Mighty few rocks around here so I don't know much about that except what I read, I'm assuming you probably would not want a lot of stall as it cuts down engine braking, no? factory stall range from about 1200 up to the old street hemi converters which run about 2200. Most of my trucks get the high stall 4x4 converters, they run about 1600 or so rpm. The same converter will not nescesarrily have the same stall in 2 different vehicles, depends on weight and torque. a heavier vehicle will stall higher than a light one. kick down levers apply the second gear band, the higher the # the greater the apply ratio and the tighter it squeezes the band. trade off is the higher the ratio the slower it applies. 5.0 levers are available but can have timing issues with front clutch apply. that's why I like 4.2 levers, alas they are no longer available.Go with the 3.8 lever.I also like the old welded KD bands but they are hard to find.
 

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No, there is one tooth difference in the spline, you can run non lockup converter in a lockup trans by changing the input or haveing the converter rebuild company make you a non lockup converter with the lock-up hub in the middle of it, I'm running one of these in my old tow truck, cost 75$. I been hauling junk bodies for a guy, the other day I went across the scales at 18000#s gross. Thats why I didn't want lockup. you can buy good lockup converters but they are pricey. the standard lockup converters just have one disc. http://www.pbase.com/txs/inbox&page=2 Damn, thought I was posting one pic, just sends you to my pic site. go to page 2 and it's pic 003 of my truck.
 
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