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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I decided to start a little project thread on my truck as a good idea to record, look back on things I've done, need to do, and just to keep notes.  There is much to do. My goal is to get it in good operating order. It's not a truck for any winter use, or work. It's a hobby, and to use for myself and family. Once the truck is mechanically sound, I will look into the 4by system, and eventually a paint job. But, the paint job may wait even longer if I need to rebuild the transmission and transfer case. I'm not putting a time limit on getting all this stuff done. Time, money, and research along with my wife and our house will make my project a little slow in progress. But that's fine by me.

So, with out anymore of a back ground, I'll dive right in. I welcome any friendly advice, and constructive criticism. I'm going to ask many novice questions, please be patient with me. I hope you may find the thread entertaining, as I don't see many ( if any ) project threads on this particular truck model here at RCC. If anything, you'll know what not to do, lol! Thank you for having me!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
One of the first major projects for this truck will be to replace the floor pans, and fix the cab sag in the rear of the cab. Here, I got my new floor pans. I picked up a cheep HF flux core welder to weld them in with. I went through some of the old topics of welding, here at RCC, and it's advised to start with some better flux core wire. To Butt-weld the pans in, and just tack weld about every 1.5" or so, cooling the weld with compressed air. I got a good welding helmet and gloves too. I'm new to welding, so may I ask questions in my up to date thread about it. First, I'm going to practice, and practice a lot!
 

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Sounds like a good project, post some pictures.
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here, looking at the driver's side, the back of cab is sagging pretty low, the same was noticed at the passenger's side too! Also, the front of the cab ( between the front fender and cab ) is only sagging a little low.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The rear cab mounts themselves look fine, maybe the top is a little compressed. But not bad at all for original equipment. I have the bottle jack with block to keep the cab raised up. Note the bolt cleaned up well! I thought if I had to use something for new mounts, I might have looked into hockey pucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Let's have a look at the inside of the cab. I had been spraying the top of the cab bolt with penetrating oil for a month. You note the cab bolt is secured by a square nut, and held in place from spinning is a bracket. The bracket is made to allow room for side-to-side cab adjustments. There also is another wide, flat piece of cab structure steel under the nut and bracket, and traveling up the back of the cab wall for some length. Seeing what you see, how bad the color of rust looks, I would have to try to remove the bolt and hope it unscrews, and that nothing twists off and breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With the driver's side upper and lower mount removed, I can examine how bad the rust damage truly is. You might be able to catch a glimpse of the flat, structure steel I was referring to. Being this side of the truck, the damage was greater, going to say because of the time the driver spent operating the truck as the problem got worse. But for actual frame mounts, there is still factory black paint on it ( in places ).  The passenger side I don't have a picture for. But it looked like that side was sagging down because of rust dammage, and that the driver's side could have been pulling it down some, and going to add in the top mount being slightly compressed over the life of the truck. The cab on this side was rubbing on top of the frame a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I spent some time under the truck, until wee-hours of the morning. I watched me-tube videos of some great workmanship replacing cab sections similar to mine. I did not ( yet ) find any videos of such a cab piece being removed, and welding in a new one specific to my model year. Where and when would I find another piece to weld in? I'm trying to do my truck justice, but I don't have the funds, time, or know-how to do it as I'd like it to be done. I'd have to have a custom piece made, and have an expert weld it all together for me. And most likely, 91% of my cab section in question was solid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I thought a good foundation will be needed to get the body lines to line up again. I happen to have some plate steel being slightly thicker than the frame thickness. I had to notch the new plate to pass the top of the frame. I then used 1/2" bolts to secure the new plate to the bottom of the cab through more plate inside the cab. I cant imagine the cab sliding left or right off the top cab mount's steel spacer. The mount bolt would go on to tighten up strongly into the cab's square side-to-side adjustment nut, and not twist out the retaining bracket. I'm not planning on installing an original fuel tank inside the cab, behind the seat anyway. I'll end up with more seat room with out it. Here are a few pictures of what I did. You'll note the thin, extra plate I have before the blue plate as I mentioned the driver's side being the worst area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Now here are some honest results of the cab no longer sagging in the rear, and some body line alinement. I did get a box of body shims, and may have to do further adjustments after I can stand far enough away from the truck for a bigger picture.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got some great shop time in on the 71! The driver's side floor pan is cut out, and almost 100% ready for measurements to be taken for the new floor pan I got from Kenny. I think I'm going to install 60 amp service in my garage, and get the gas welder from work and the engineer to go with it, to weld these pans in when it warms up some. I got a HF 125 flux welder, and I love it. But, I'm not going to learn on my new pans right now. I'm excited to learn to weld, regardless!

So, the cab mounts don't seem too bad. There won't be much repair to do to these. My W100 is respectably solid. I started the passenger side, and just rough cut the pan out. I was getting tired after two days putting in about 28 hours making me sloppy with that wicked cut off wheel on the angle grinder. I'm happy with my work! The pans are going to be butt welded in, the correct way.


Once I'm done with the passenger side, I'm going to make new cab mounts ( spacers/pads ) for the front. When I'm satisfied there, I'll take the new pan measurements. I also think I need to come down about .080" on the rear driver's side cab mount. Any way, a few pictures, or it did not happen, lol!
 

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.080" ?  working in awfully close tolerances for old sheetmetal aren't you ?
 

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Don't forget to put some weld thru primer on the edges of the cab floor and your new floorpan.
Personally I would stay away from flux core wire as far as I could, and go with a decent mig welder. A lot easier to learn welding, and the results are much much better.
Good luck {cool}
 

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I really got mad at my son when he threw away his '71.
It was totally rust free and straight.
Somebody wanted the bed off of it, but they offered him less than he wanted for it. He blew them off and just ended up hauling it the metal recycler.
He never listens to me until after the fact.  ;D

Kids...
 

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there was a time when "we" fixed things , like a starter ,or a water pump, but the "kids" grew up with fsm's that no longer even have that info , they just say "replace" AKA "throw away" the OLD junk , so they DO , its what "we" taught "them" ....
 

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dodge82273 said:
there was a time when "we" fixed things , like a starter ,or a water pump, but the "kids" grew up with fsm's that no longer even have that info , they just say "replace" AKA "throw away" the OLD junk , so they DO , its what "we" taught "them" ....
Well my son likes the old stuff. And fixes things most people his age or way older wouldn't or couln't do... https://ramchargercentral.com/mopar-trucks/my-son's-'41-power-wagon/

He's just an extreme minimalist.
If it's in the way and no longer needed... chuck it.
It made me sick that he just chucked that '71.
Somebody out there could have used those straight, rust free parts.
 

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ah, I see . a tad different then .
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dodge82273 said:
.080" ? working in awfully close tolerances for old sheetmetal aren't you ?
LOL! Yea, I think I'm still high on the rear driver's side corner. I'm a custom profile extrusion supervisor, so my eyes are like a set of calipers, lol! Now, that don't mean a hill of beans whether or not I can do something about the body lines on my Sweptline!
 
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