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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pulled the dash apart on my '73 crew yesterday. Going to clean the dust and dirt out. Missing a few bulb sockets, so I found Rick E's store on eBay, and picked up some items from him, including bulb sockets. I've been wanting to go to LED's here, so I've ordered some from the RCC-favorite, Super Bright LED's. My Amp gauge, and its wires, look very good, and do not appear to have been too hot. I had a bit of black dust inside the gauge cluster itself, and it looks like it came from the Brake Light. I attached a picture; is that a rubber ring around the "post" where the brake light sits?? If not, any idea of the material?? Do I need to replace it, while I have it all apart? Can I take it out?
Thanks,

Joe
 

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'79 Macho 360 Magnum, Comp 480 cam, Hughes springs, 650 Thunder AVS, Pertronix Flamethrower ignition
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The black stuff is just the factory adhesive to hold the brake light lens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I believe I will, actually.聽 I've seen this referenced on here and Moparts board, so I'm going to run a search to see what model paint has been successfully used. I need to rig up the little tester apparatus for the oil, temp, and fuel gauges, and check them while it's all apart. I've purchased one of those solid state voltage limiters for the dash for these 3 gauges, also.

If I can find the correct lube, I'll probably re-lube the speedo cable while it's all apart. The needle does bounce a bit, in colder weather.

I also have a good top dash and glove box lid that I've dyed to match this one's color; PO has drilled the dash to put a clasp on it to keep the glove box lid fastened down, and the lid itself has a crack at the button indention. I tried SEM's filler to fix this, but it did NOT turn out good, so I found replacements.

While it's apart, were these 70's dashes set up with a ground wire anywhere that I need to be checking on??
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do the fuel (and oil, temp) gauges interchange between 75-77??? I broke the fuel gauge needle trying to work the wiring harness pins loose from the back of the dash. I have it from a 75 and a 77.

The Amp gauge leads are in good shape, and I can't tell that the gauge or the back of the assembly has ever been too hot. Will clean the leads and posts up before I reassemble. Would a set of brass nuts be preferable to the stock ones?

You really have to be a contortionist to get to all the little retainer nuts for the plastic dash top, lol. When I put the replacement back on, I'd like to get a set of those carpet pad covers for the dash top and glove box.
 

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I read your post above about painting the Needle and I was going to say be extra careful as the slightest bump will break those needles. I have a few dash assemblies and I think out of those two broken speedo indicators and a couple others on the minor gauges to go along with those. gauges should interchange so long as it fits in the hole.
 

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I suppose it is a foam. Mine has gone hard and crunchy. I'm pretty sure that the needles on the gauges are metal but the Speedo needle is definitely plastic.
 

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Yes, gauges are metal. Speedo I have seen metal, and plastic.

For the cable lube, I use either a graphite based grease, or white lithium based, what ever I have handy.聽 Just put some grease on a rag. then pull the inner cable out, and pass it through the grease as you put it back in. It will take you more time to find the rag, and grease.

If you do not have the gauge cluster out, they make an adapter the screws onto the bottom of the speedo cable, and you can use a grease gun, and give a few squirts.
 

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I just use electrical tape to hold the brake light cover on.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SuperBurban said:
I just use electrical tape to hold the brake light cover on.
Speaking of tape; while I have the dash apart and cleaning up, I'm going to go after some spots on the wire harnesses under the dash. I'm going to unwrap the old tape and make some good fixes where either the PO hacked into a portion for powering something or where rodents hacked in for no good at all. When putting a loom back together, I don't really want to wrap with electrical tape. Is friction tape better for this, or use the split loom stuff?
 

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jcruse64 said:
Speaking of tape; while I have the dash apart and cleaning up, I'm going to go after some spots on the wire harnesses under the dash. I'm going to unwrap the old tape and make some good fixes where either the PO hacked into a portion for powering something or where rodents hacked in for no good at all. When putting a loom back together, I don't really want to wrap with electrical tape. Is friction tape better for this, or use the split loom stuff?
Depends on whether you think you will need access to individual wires in the future. In general, I use the cheapest electrical tape I can find, if the adhesive fails, then you have the plastic wrap like from the factory. But for harnesses that are in place, I usually use a bunch of zip ties, and cut the tails. Split loom is also a good choice, esp if you are after good looks, and rodent protection (I have not heard of any specifically designed to resist rodents, just feel that the split loom will slow their chewing). It really comes down to how much access you have.
 

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jcruse64 said:
Speaking of tape; while I have the dash apart and cleaning up, I'm going to go after some spots on the wire harnesses under the dash. I'm going to unwrap the old tape and make some good fixes where either the PO hacked into a portion for powering something or where rodents hacked in for no good at all. When putting a loom back together, I don't really want to wrap with electrical tape. Is friction tape better for this, or use the split loom stuff?
I love this stuff. It's a fiber tape that is very sticky.

https://www.amazon.com/Insulation-Temperature-Automotive-Electrical-32mm%C3%9711-5m/dp/B075CY4BCZ
 

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In theory, you do not want a strong adhesive tape for a wire loom. If you ever have to open one, you will be glad for cheap adhesive. The old factory ones were plain vinyl, with no adhesive at all, with a cloth tape at the ends.
 

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I usually use tiny zip ties to clean things up or I use tape in single strips wrapped around a few times every 4-6 inches apart..
 

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One thing I think you should watch out for is be very careful when reconnecting the 11 pin connector harness on the back of the cluster! I snapped 3 of the pins right off with no effort. Had to solder lead wires, and use male/female crimp on connectors for every wire. If you do snap one off you may get lucky and re-solder it to the board, but it will still be weak. Pretty sure I'm not the only one who has broke them off.
 

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subwoofer88 said:
One thing I think you should watch out for is be very careful when reconnecting the 11 pin connector harness on the back of the cluster! I snapped 3 of the pins right off with no effort. Had to solder lead wires, and use male/female crimp on connectors for every wire. If you do snap one off you may get lucky and re-solder it to the board, but it will still be weak. Pretty sure I'm not the only one who has broke them off.
One of mine broke off but I was very successful soldering it back on. It's pretty strong. Just be meticulous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for the heads-up on that. It took some effort to get it loose in the first place. Plan on using a little sandpaper on all those pins, to lightly work on them, and then spray clean with electrical contact cleaner. Was also thinking of lightly applying some dielectric grease to the pins before plugging it back together.

Also working on taking the alternator feed through the bulkhead to the welded splice and then to amp gauge, back out to starter relay OUT of the bulkhead connector, while this is all apart. Will take out original feed wire from alternator, and put a new 8 or 10 gauge wire in. Plan to make place a terminal block on firewall to send that wire to. From there, one wire through a firewall grommet straight to black post on amp gauge, and another wirethrough the same grommet off to be spliced into the feed to the welded splice under the dash, with a fusible link on the engine bay side. Off the amp gauge on the red post with new wire, back through grommet, to a fusible link to the starter relay post. Will pull original red wire out of harness, and cap the end of the original black wire to amp gauge. Got most of the cab side unwrapped yesterday.
 
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