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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 78 D100 with a 225 slant six engine and three speed on the column. I talked to a guy at a local transmission shop today about converting to the three speed w/overdrive (A-833). I want to drive on the highway and get better gas mileage. He suggested trying to find a five speed, instead. Huh? Is there such thing as a five speed transmission with housing that will match up with my slant six engine?

 

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no there isn,t any thing that will bolt straight up / but the 5 speed he,s talking about from a DAK will convert to the / 6 with a little work / personnally l,d go with what your were gonna do first with the 883 / its just easier
 

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Many 5-speeed tranny's have been sucessfully mated to a slant, T5's, Dakota 5 speeds, and more. Do a search at http://www.slantsix.org for a wealth of info.

Otherwise, as said, there are no direct swap 'bolt-up' 5 speeds that will mate to a slant.

One of the members at moparts can now make an adapter plate to mate any trans for an LA small block (reproduction of the Mopar factory adpater plate made in the early 70's, but is lighter, and not as thick). I have one of these adapters (I funded the prototype), and plan to install an A500 auto 4 speed in my slanted '87 D150 this winter. :)

-SM
 

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there is a company in Florida, i cant think of there name right now that makes bell housing to mate any trans to any engine. ....... i will remember sooner or later or maby someone knows what im talking about. ......... if it were me id go with the 4 speed. it's cheap and readilt avaliable and is the same trand Mopar has been using since the mid '60's so parts are easy to come by. ........ the only difference is they changed the 3rd gear ratio to an overdrive and fliped the shift linkage so when you put the shifter into the 3rd gear slot you are actuly selecting the 4th (1:1 ratio) and when you put it in the 4th gear slot you get what was the 3rd gear set that is now an ovewrdrive ( I hope i didnt confuse anyone). ...... so keeping this in mind you have a bit of a sharp rpm drop from 2nd gear to 3rd gear ( the equilivent to shifting from 2nd to 4th in a normal 4 speed) and then less of one going into 4th. From my experenced most /6 engines fall flat on there faces when pulling a hill with this trans, there just isnt enough power there to keep working in that gear range so be ready to downshift regularly. ............. or talk Slanted Mind into hooking you up with a leaning tower of power. lol David
 

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Slants, even bone stock, are torquey engines. Their stroke (4.125") is almost as long as a big block!

It IS only a 6 cylinder engine, and will therefore never be able to make the amount of power it's V8 bretheren are capable of making....BUT: In my experience slants take a bad rap for being 'gutless' when it is not the engine's fault. Many are given highway gears (3.23, 3.21, 2.94, 2.76, 2.46 ! )to push around....which kills any kind of hill-pulling ability. I have driven 318's and 360's with 2.76 gearing that were just as gutless asany slant when you hit a hill.

Final thoughts: Slants are VERY responsive to minor induction and exhaust modifications. '76 & up slants are choked down with low compression, the worst camshaft, and emissions devices, along with a pitiful induction and exhaust system. A simple upgrade to a 2 bbl carb (aka "Supersix") & intake, and an upgrade to 2.25-2.5" single exhaust will make a world of difference on later slants. And one step further...replace lean-burn ignitions with even standard electronic ignition makes a big spark quality difference. The low compression is a relatively easy fix as well, as slants can have up to .100" taken of the head AND block safely, in some cases more. (I don't recommend taking .100" off both surfaces, that would net you about 13:1 compression ;) )

-SM
 

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I saw some pretty mean /6's running on the dirt track we used to race at up north. They were running in the same division as the small block chevys.. Seemed odd to see a monster 4Bbl hanging off the side of them.
There's a lot of info now about converting them over to MPI and adding turbos as well..
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Slanted_Mind said:
Final thoughts: Slants are VERY responsive to minor induction and exhaust modifications. '76 & up slants are choked down with low compression, the worst camshaft, and emissions devices, along with a pitiful induction and exhaust system. A simple upgrade to a 2 bbl carb (aka "Supersix") & intake, and an upgrade to 2.25-2.5" single exhaust will make a world of difference on later slants.
-SM
yeah, my truck has the 2bbl. Regarding the transmission question, I've located an 833 overdrive in a salvage yard about an hour away. I plan to drive down on Saturday. It's currently mounted behind a /6 in a van.

What else besides the transmission should I get while I'm there? This is going to replace my A390 3 speed. Do I need the bellhousing or will my current one work? What about the clutch assembly? Yoke?

 

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I would grab it all, anything attached to the tranny...especially because it is a van. Vans tend to have "oddball" linkages, mounts, etc specific to vans due to the way the engine & trans sits within the chassis & body. I would not be surprised if you end up fabbing a few brackets for your truck because the van linkages don't work. Still well worth the effort for OD IMHO.

You may have to replace the shifter with one from a truck. I do not know if they were different bewteen vans and trucks, but to me it would seem they have to be different, simply due to the driver's position in relation to the trans in a van vs a truck

Good luck with the trans swap. Let me know how it goes. :)

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Even better. I found an 833 OD w/clutch plate and shifter from a truck in a yard just 20 minutes away. $150 (that's $100 cheaper than the other guy). So, he's pulling it and should be ready tomorrow. It's currently behind a /6 and he thought I could use my existing bellhousing. I'm sort of excited about it!

I asked if he could recommend a shop to do the switch. He gave me a shop name and said to ask for "Big Mike".

Big Mike?

 

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pantseatflyer said:
Even better. I found an 833 OD w/clutch plate and shifter from a truck in a yard just 20 minutes away. $150 (that's $100 cheaper than the other guy). So, he's pulling it and should be ready tomorrow. It's currently behind a /6 and he thought I could use my existing bellhousing. I'm sort of excited about it!

I asked if he could recommend a shop to do the switch. He gave me a shop name and said to ask for "Big Mike".

Big Mike?

Big Mike? {bigeyes}

You may be able to use your existing bellhousing, but I have more experience with automatics than manuals so I am unsure. If possible, I would grab it all.

Nice score. {cool}

-SM
 

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how do you overcome the fuel distrabution problems associated with running a 4bbl on a /6 ie... center two cylinders being rich the next two out being stoch and the outer two being lean? i want knocking /'s just trying to give him a little insite what to expect with the OD trans. David
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thesasquach said:
how do you overcome the fuel distrabution problems associated with running a 4bbl on a /6 ie... center two cylinders being rich the next two out being stoch and the outer two being lean? i want knocking /'s just trying to give him a little insite what to expect with the OD trans. David
Huh? My /6 doesn't have a 4bbl.

 

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pantseatflyer said:
Huh? My /6 doesn't have a 4bbl.
I think that Q was directed at me....my slant has a 4 bbl ;D

Thus far, by turning the carb 90* to orient the primary's on the driver side of the engine, the fuel distribution issues have all but dissapeared. Based on the way my plugs look after about 1000 miles on this engine, 2 thru 5 all run the same. 1 & 6 are slightly leaner, but not much. I don't really consider fuel distribution a problem anymore with the 4 bbl.

I did have fuel distribution issues with the 2 bbl, especially after the throttle shaft developed a vacuum leak. 1 & 6 got WAY lean at cruise, and I melted a hole in #1 piston :eek: (which was the reason for the rebuild).

-SM
 

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I haven't look in a while, but there used to be an Offenhauser<sp> 4bbl manifold in the Mopar catalog for the /6as well as a header that fit it; and several higher oputput cams.
Wasn't the HyperPack a 4bbl; My old Valiant was a Super Six and was only a 2 bbl. Owning a slant is probably one of the things that made me become diehard Mopar. No motor should be asked or expected to take the abuse I gave it.
 

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awyseguy said:
No motor should be asked or expected to take the abuse I gave it.
Ever watched the 'Duralube' infomercial? The one where they pour sand all over the rockers/valves while it is running? That engine is a slant. ;D Kept right on humming away....

Offenhauser makes a 4 bbl intake (this is what I am using)
Clifford Performance used to make several 4 bbl intakes for the slant. One was similar to the offy, one was water heated, now they reproduce hyperpac's
Hyperpacs are 'long runner' 4 bbl manifolds that have a 'tuned' port/runner design that seems to come on right around 4500 rpm. Doctor Dodge (Doug Dutra - slant guru extrordinaire) has said his vacuum/boost gauge actually begins to read boost with his hyperpac when he gets over 4500 rpm... (I need to double check that rpm....it may be slightly higher)

Prolinefuel also makes 2x 2bbl offy intakes for the slant....he has them set up for Weber Carbs. This is the manifold i want to use for a twin-TBI slant ;D

-SM
 
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You know- Slanted- we should get together and do an EFI project on your ******- it would be super easy and cheap in your case- a four barrel intake, drilled for the injectors, a home made throttle body from an old carb- and you would get that wonderful cold start that Fairbanks loves so much- plus awesome mileage and fuel distribution- I bet it would be less than five hun for the whole set up for your truck!
 

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Have any ideas on a fuel rail? This seems to be one of the major costs of doing an EFI conversion using batch fire...which is why I am currently leaning toward TBI. Fewer injectors to deal with and overall less of a headache. Re-drilling & tapping the mounting surface of an intake or even making an adapter out of aluminum billet is easier than constructing a fuel rail. After reading GP's post on the MegaSquirt I may be building one myself. If I get the free project '84...it will be my EFI experimentation mule. For now I am pretty happy with the Holley 4 bbl on the '87. After it gets body paint/work (a couple weeks away) I will be saving every last cent I can for a house. I am sick of throwing my money away on rent :(

If I ever get the efi project off the ground I'll let ya know. i can use all the help I can get ::)

Sorry for hijacking the thread....

-SM
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Picked up the 833 today, clutch assembly, etc. I then walked around the salvage yard. Lots of dead vehicles in there. I sort of felt sorry for them. Crippled and abandoned, awaiting stripping and crushing. When I have more time I want to go back and see what I can find.

Anyway, coming home tonight I drove up a dirt road hill to a shop where they do transmission work. It was closing time, but I caught a guy who works there and showed him what I wanted. He offered to swap it out himself over at his place, rather than going through the shop, to save me money. I asked how much. Does $200 sound like a square deal? He said he could do it over a weekend.

 
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