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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The auto locking hubs on my 83 are junk.  While trying to install lockouts in their place I found the depth is different and the lockouts don't fit.

I know the manual lockouts fit my 88 W150.  What years use the hubs that manual lockouts don't fit and are the spindles different too or just the hub? 
 

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If the locking hubs fit the '88, they should fit the '83.  The only real difference in the hubs is in '85 they enlarged the seal diameter.
 

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depth different ? explain please ?  axle and snap ring ? push from axle out from behind the u joint , or pry out from snap ring groove ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The axle shaft seems fine.  It's been over a week and I'm going from memory not notes but  here goes.

The axle shaft has 3 groves, the automatic hub used the furthest inboard, the manual uses the furthest outboard.

The hub is where the issue lies.  The o.d. snap ring grove is about 0.100" to far recessed to allow snap ring installation.  On top of that the cover/selector has a gap of roughly the same distance between its seal area and the hub.  I also measured depth thinking maybe the o.d. splines or hub could be modified but there is not enough depth to allow the hub to be installed deeper without hitting the spindle. 

These hubs did last live in an 80s 3/4 ton chevy but those take the same part number as dodge 44s.  My parts/gambler 83 has lockouts fully installed so if I have to I can take a hub out and measure it but I was hoping this would be a common well known issue.
 

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Some of the early hubs, you need to remove the four tab wheel bearing lock ring, with a standard style.
 

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dunknow , the "super winch" brand manual 44 hubs have distructions with them , showing in pictures to use the inner snap ring with the thrust washer if your axles have em ... see pic 1 and 2  last set I installed that's what I did , and they even turn by hand in the worst weather  part number 400518 Superwinch 

fwiw my '82 uses the same hubs as all the newer ones up to '93 .. so ? , and yep listed for ford/chevy/dodge D44

some have a split tin sheet metal spacer ring in there , remove that .... of coarse  ... 
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I need to pull one from the other ramcharger and do some measuring.  Somethings not right, I assumed it was the hub as the lockouts were being stored in a spare set of 8 lug chevy hubs and they fit those.  I looked up part numbers on Mile Markers website and it looked like they should work but they don't. 

Maybe I will have time to do that tomorrow.
 

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sounds like you know , and have a good plan , good luck with it  ;D really .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Figured it out. Kind of.

Superwinch Left, Mile Marker right. Though the overall height is different the notice the thickness of the the space between the splines and retaining ring seat. It is roughly 0.100" thicker on the Mile Marker which creates the fitment issue in the one set of hubs.


Manual hub 83 0.680" from end to spine, 0.250" to outer edge of lock grove. Also the ramcharger it's in to help description. This brown one had the superwinch lock outs installed and will also fit the Mile Marker. Both lock outs fit this one.



Auto Hub 83 0.585" from end to spline, 0.250" to outer edge of lock grove. This is the one that started this thread. The Mile Marker lockouts do not fit this hub. The Super Winch lockouts do fit and work in this hub.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So it's a combination of issues.  The hubs are different 0.095" difference in spine length.  The lockouts are also different by the same 0.095". 

The superwinch and likely others will fit either style of hub without issue though they will have less spline engagement on the more one style of hub.  The Mile Markers are a better fit and fully engage the splines on the hub with deeper splines which I'm assuming is more common as they also fit the chevy hub.
 

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superwinch 400518 = d 44 "1/2 ton"  odd , most all the different brands I've had have "pulled" the hub out to the cover with the screws , I.E. had room in there .....2 kinds of  warn , mile marker , superwinch seemed to last hand operated longest so far .. lol ( salt )  they do ask you to use their outer axle snap ring ....

so the distance from the spline to the groove is the same , and is all that matters , as far as installing the wire snap ring .  maybe its because the 2 lockers are different and dirt has stopped the deeper  mm from going in far enough ?
 

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I think the critical distance would be the measurement from  the end of the spindle, to the retaining ring grove.
 

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If this is the axle you want to use, the snapring is still on the axle stub.

 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The od splines not the i.d. and no the clean one is the one I'm assembling.  That snap ring and bushing should be on the axle before the lockout goes in.  This is the first axle I've ever seen it on though. 

The mile marker will fit that hub as it sits.  It will not fit the automatic axle as there is not room were the caliper is shown.
 

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username408 said:
That snap ring and bushing should be on the axle before the lockout goes in
Negative.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It takes the load of retaining the inner shaft off the lock out.  Not all have it but yes it can be there.  I wouldn't go out of my way to get one if it wasn't there but it's definitely not a bad thing and it's not causing any issues.
 

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But that is not where it belongs.  It belongs on the end of the shaft, outside of the locking hub.  If you are having problems with the hub seating but have a snap ring under it that shouldn't be there, I think that would be causing an issue.  Most people just leave that snap ring out as the joint with self center on it's own anyway, but it can cause wear on the spindle bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes there also needs to be a snap ring outside the hub.  I can fully install the mile marker into that hub as it sits.  The clean one is the one it won't fit and it's because the o.d. splines are longer on it for some reason.
 
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