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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
FINAL UPDATE**
THANKS EVERYONE FOR ALL THE HELP. turns out my exhaust pop was bad timing, my timing light is off. Got a new timing light, runs like a dream.
For those browsing and investigating these heads, read on.

82 w150
Engine: 82 5.9 360la carbed.

Recap:
Found heads to be cracked, bought Edelbrock 60779 heads to replace.
Had machine shop check em out, cleaned and replace lube with "better" lube. Said they were good.

Installed, found headers mount a bit different as these heads are bigger and longer. Also caused issues with accessory mounting. Ordered water pump-mount alternator brackets, maybe I can make power steering work with a different custom hose. Don't know yet.

What we know now:

1. Alternator bracket needs modification or replacement, I used SME-2006 from summit for $69.99. Looks pretty, but also had to add spacers as I have the big square back alternator to clear the head, and correct the piss-poor sheave alignment.
2. Passenger header was a tighter fit than before, but it still worked. My motor mounts set my engine right to the drivers side for some reason, so the drivers side frame had to be notched to make them fit.

3. 4. Aftermarket valve covers only:Aftermarket Mopar valve covers take a lot of work, as for the love of god 1in OD Pcv/breather grommets no longer exist. Had to drill out valve covers to 1 1/4, and silicone grommets in. (As the actual OD of Chevy grommets is 1.22. And your average hole saw is 1.27+. Expect a PITA. IMO, paint your old ones something' fancy. Or use a dremel/die grinder to open it up slightly after a 1in. Hole saw.
Drivers side Mopar Performance cover interferes with brake booster, used a tiger paw to shave some off the cover to make it clear. All this can be avoided by using the stock(ugly) valve covers.

5. Power steering: I had the bracket that mounts to a bracket on the head. high pressure hose interferes with head. Factory heads have an indent that assist with clearance.
A friend of mine brought me the spare bracket he had, that Elenwil shared a picture of on page 2. Alignment issues made me install the triangle water pump bracket(#13) on top of the larger square on that mounts to the pump.
6. New belt runs from crank, to water pump, to steering pump. This is what I was after as if I ever throw a belt, I have one backup on my water pump. B0013454 is the belt part number. I went with the longer gates belt, the shorter one should work as well. (OReillies found 3 matches that vary by about an inch. All will work.)

I used the factory valve train and push rods. But from my understanding adjustable rockers and precision setting your pushrod length opens some more doors for some nice horsepower.
Truck feels a lot snappier, pulls harder, overall after all is said and done, you should be able to bolt these on easily as most have at least on of the correct brackets for your acessories.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I found the problem. Burnt valve. Prolly from all the attempts to get the carb straightened out. But I’m learning the hard way one step at a time so what the hell ever.
Pistons look nicer than I expected, but is there a reason these valves have a dome? Wouldn’t flat ones add a rush to compression?
Tryna learn what I’m doin. I’ve done head gaskets and what not, but my dad felt with all the important stuff.
I just took em off and put them on and torqued em. x)

Wanted to upload pics but it won’t let me due to file size?

Head gaskets look fine, looks like it was the valve giving me the bad reading.
Either way the heads had to come off I guess.
 

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what year/vehicle? LA or magnum?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ToxicDoc said:
what year/vehicle? LA or magnum?
82 w150 ram. The engine I believe is an 85 360 LA.
Upon getting the heads off, I learned I have aluminum aftermarket pistons, POSSIBLY a mild cam, hooker long tube headers.
I have a badly burnt exhaust valve, and by the sounds of it having them cleaned up and gone through can cost as much as new aluminum ones.

I guess I am wondering how to figure out my compression ratio and what cool things can be done at this point, while I'm this far in. I don't want to bury too much into it but next year maybe hoping for a cam that has a mean idle and strong bottom end torque. But in all honesty I know nothing about the compression ratio nodding side of things.
 

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If the head is off, you can measure the piston height in the cylinder and the chamber volume with a syringe. You'll use those in the CR formula
 

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Whatever heads you get get them (bare). Really expensive heads can still have a shity valve job and garbage parts installed. Have your machine shop do the valve job and the Machining work.               
                      Measure how far the Piston is in the hole . Head gasket thickness and head Milling to get compression ratio.                                                              Ferra stainless steel valves , indy LA/X.  Depending on what cam you have now and valve springs now might be the time to do the cam cuz you're going to need valve Springs too. Hughe's engines get their LA/X heads bare and do their work check them out.             
                      . If U get a set of assembled heads you just going to have to take them to the machine shop to check them out anyway
 

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With this already in the technical discussion, would anybody like to address the interesting parts of head design?  Runner volume, WTF is it and what are we looking for on heavy trucks that don't rev to the moon?  Compression ratio is all well and good, but how far can you go with our trucks running traditional distributors and 10% ethanol gas?
 

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I believe you can have a higher compression ratio while, not retarding the timing,( more advanced). By not having sharp edges in the combustion chamber causing hot spots. (Detonation )ping. Slightly radiused Edge rounded shall you say.  And also not have to use such a high octane.                                                      Keeping velocity up and fuel in suspension is good.  Big ports big valves ehhh                                             
                      And also believe  a bored and stroked small Port small valve 318 in a big heavy brick would be an extreme low end torque animal. Why? I would like to know also
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I bit the bullet and picked up the eddy aluminum 60779 heads, gaskets, bolts, & some Mopar Performance valve covers because I’m an idiot, and what’s another $140 for “pretty”?

Eventually maybe a cam but I’m still trying to figure out why my wife won’t talk to me.
 

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I'd check the valve job at least before installing them. Stand up on end spray some carb cleaner in the ports watch for it running out where the valves seat
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Jeffy45 said:
I'd check the valve job at least before installing them. Stand up on end spray some carb cleaner in the ports watch for it running out where the valves seat
I figured based on the reviews at summit, I'll take them to the machine shop and have them give them a look over, just in case there's something i would miss.

So with these new heads, where can I go about bumping up the compression?
Did these trucks come factory with aluminum pistons?
 

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yup
 

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The smaller the combustion chamber equals more compression. Piston to deck height .size of combustion chamber new head to old head. And head gasket thickness
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Jeffy45 said:
The smaller the combustion chamber equals more compression. Piston to deck height .size of combustion chamber new head to old head. And head gasket thickness
So I was told if I use a thin gasket, and have 5 thou shaved from the new heads, "that should up my cr to really wake that motor up."

But what are the risks of doing so?
 

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Rabbit929 said:
So I was told if I use a thin gasket, and have 5 thou shaved from the new heads, "that should up my cr to really wake that motor up."

But what are the risks of doing so?
that isn't enough to raise the compression by any significant degree, but it'll be a tiny step in the right direction. 5 thousandths shouldn't be trouble, but if you do more, sometimes the pushrods need to be shorter. Really to raise the compression ratio you need different heads from stock or different pistons. Once that happens, you need to be careful with ignition timing, pinging, and using high octane fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ToxicDoc said:
that isn't enough to raise the compression by any significant degree, but it'll be a tiny step in the right direction. 5 thousandths shouldn't be trouble, but if you do more, sometimes the pushrods need to be shorter. Really to raise the compression ratio you need different heads from stock or different pistons. Once that happens, you need to be careful with ignition timing, pinging, and using high octane fuel.
Well the new Edelbrock heads appear to have a much smaller chamber than my old smogger heads. So I presume I should have a bump in compression already, but how far can I go before pump fuel becomes an issue?
From what I've read I should keep the stock 4 barrel intake manifold, as the Edelbrock intake will help it breathe at a higher rpm, but sap the bottom end torque, and if like to add power while I'm replacing heads but without making it a race truck with bad road manners.
 

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That is hard to say. The traditional school of thought is that aluminum heads can help resist knock by about 1 point in compression ratio, e.g. 10:1 on aluminum is like 9:1 on iron heads. A lot depends on what the compression actually ends up being. and yes, with those heads, you should get a significant bump in compression. Dynamic compression can alter the effects, so a lot depends on your cam profile too.

I'm running close to 10:1 on stock iron heads. I didn't measure piston height, but based on the specs I think it came out to 9.7:1. I can run on premium fuel but did have to back off on my timing a little. I think my total timing is at 30 degrees, about 6-8 degrees at idle. I had been at 14-15 (35 total) with my 318 with stock low-compression heads.

The factory 4-barrel intake is reported to be very good. I wouldn't change it unless you had money to burn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So with that I’ll have to hear from the machine shop what they recommend.
I’m all for touching here and there to grab some power, but premium here is about $.50 higher than 10% ethanol, so I’d really want to make sure I can still run 87-89 without problems. Last time I asked them most of them only seem to know Chevy engines.  ??? ???
I know theres an old guy named Jim in the back that seems to know his shit. I’ll see if I can get ahold of him instead of the apprentices. 
 

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I've always run 93 in any Chrysler V8 product. Except for my 2001 360, it's set up to run 87.                                (big wheelbarrow). All fuel has a percentage of ethanol probably over 10% unless it's states that it does not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Regular 2.54
Plus (89) 2.63
Premium (91) 2.95

They don’t sell 93 octane in ND that I know of.
 
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