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I do know this thread is making me wish I had a 70s motor instead of an early 90s, I think it would've made this a little bit simpler.
Don't be so hard on your engine, you have a roller cam in that engine which is superior to a flat tappet cam plus it has decent heads on it. If you want power then save up and buy some pistons for it.
 
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I'll tell you a crying shame. The folks who owned the RC I bought, had pulled the transmission on there own. How I was able to tell, they didn't know about the two bottom bolts that start from the engine side into the bellhousing. The one by the starter was really tight it appears. They gave the trans a good twist and snapped the side corner of the block off. And then lost, misplaced, throw away the broke off piece of engine block. If I had the piece a possible repair could have been done. But nooooo the piece is gone. So I search for a replacement, nothing found. So I found and settled on a low mileage 318 long block. Paid good all hard cash for it, tore it down and it needed everything. Man what a good deal that was, I'm hurting in the pocket book a little bit over this ordeal. But I want to get this project going, I sold my 84 CJ7 to pay for all this and make room.

One thing even if the bottom end would have checked out OK. I would have still rebuilt it, just for the fact of knowing its tight and strong. And will last for a while.

K
 

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Yeah I watched this one, which is why I was a little confused when guys were saying you have to tear into the bottom end to break 300.
Just to clarify, I said 350 was optimistic out if your bottom end. Not 300.

I also never said it was impossible either
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Don't be so hard on your engine, you have a roller cam in that engine which is superior to a flat tappet cam plus it has decent heads on it. If you want power then save up and buy some pistons for it.
So just to clarify, if I decide to upgrade the cam I should get a roller over a flat tappet? What makes roller superior?
 

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I'll tell you a crying shame. The folks who owned the RC I bought, had pulled the transmission on there own. How I was able to tell, they didn't know about the two bottom bolts that start from the engine side into the bellhousing. The one by the starter was really tight it appears. They gave the trans a good twist and snapped the side corner of the block off. And then lost, misplaced, throw away the broke off piece of engine block. If I had the piece a possible repair could have been done. But nooooo the piece is gone. So I search for a replacement, nothing found. So I found and settled on a low mileage 318 long block. Paid good all hard cash for it, tore it down and it needed everything. Man what a good deal that was, I'm hurting in the pocket book a little bit over this ordeal. But I want to get this project going, I sold my 84 CJ7 to pay for all this and make room.

One thing even if the bottom end would have checked out OK. I would have still rebuilt it, just for the fact of knowing its tight and strong. And will last for a while.

K
I've had a couple of friends long time ago do the same thing and busted off the corner of the block but they were able to drive their cars fine afterwards still.
 

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That would have great for me, but these folks snapped a chuck off(big) which holds the starter in position. There isn't anything left to hold the starter in place. And I wasn't going to gamble on it. So the block is a paper weight at the scrape yard, after a proper tear down and all the good bits and pieces saved.
 

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So just to clarify, if I decide to upgrade the cam I should get a roller over a flat tappet? What makes roller superior?
Rollers are better but more expensive. In your case you already have a roller and therefore you can re-use your roller lifters if in good condition. Rollers reduce friction which results in better fuel mileage and better throttle response. Rollers can wear but it's not a common issue and they don't require what is now considered "special oil" with zinc in it. You can use what is now called regular conventional oil. I say it like that because regular conventional oil USED to have zinc in it (which is CRITICAL for flat tappet cams) but today has very little and roller engines don't require zinc (although I still think that zinc is beneficial if you don't have a cat converter. Plus a roller can have more aggressive ramp angles if wanted.
 

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That would have great for me, but these folks snapped a chuck off(big) which holds the starter in position. There isn't anything left to hold the starter in place. And I wasn't going to gamble on it. So the block is a paper weight at the scrape yard, after a proper tear down and all the good bits and pieces saved.
Nice
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Rollers are better but more expensive. In your case you already have a roller and therefore you can re-use your roller lifters if in good condition. Rollers reduce friction which results in better fuel mileage and better throttle response. Rollers can wear but it's not a common issue and they don't require what is now considered "special oil" with zinc in it. You can use what is now called regular conventional oil. I say it like that because regular conventional oil USED to have zinc in it (which is CRITICAL for flat tappet cams) but today has very little and roller engines don't require zinc (although I still think that zinc is beneficial if you don't have a cat converter. Plus a roller can have more aggressive ramp angles if wanted.
Interesting, I'll keep that in mind when/if I decide to go with a cam.
 

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I would for sure, how I happened on the set I have. I search Craigslist once a week, using " Search Tempest" a very easy search engine to use. And I search the entire USA, for any and all things Mopar. I have several different titles I use. The rockers I found and bought came from the west coast. A very easy deal, I used PayPay to have the insurance if anything went wrong during the sale & delivery.
The set was brand new in a open box, missing a very small parts. But I have that taken care of. So $200.00 was a good deal.

K
 

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There's a couple of ways to get the compression up. Pistons or heads... or the combo of the two.
And you have to be careful doing it. A right combination of parts is very important... or else you'll end up with an unhappy engine. And you won't be happy either.
Reading from examples of what others have done is a good thing to avoid the disasters.

I would suggest reading stuff like this... https://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/index.php
Read and re -read those articles. These guys have some really good info for you on not falling off the rails when you decide to spend money.
And another thing which I harp on a lot around here... don't cut corners. By the right stuff the first time. Save your money to get the best you can buy... once.
 

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There's a couple of ways to get the compression up. Pistons or heads... or the combo of the two.
And you have to be careful doing it. A right combination of parts is very important... or else you'll end up with an unhappy engine. And you won't be happy either.
Reading from examples of what others have done is a good thing to avoid the disasters.

I would suggest reading stuff like this... https://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/index.php
Read and re -read those articles. These guys have some really good info for you on not falling off the rails when you decide to spend money.
And another thing which I harp on a lot around here... don't cut corners. By the right stuff the first time. Save your money to get the best you can buy... once.
I watched an episode of FantomWorks last night. They could not figure out why a 64 Vette was not running right. Compression was excellent, timing was good, etc. Then they took the valve covers off and found loose rockers. They dug deeper to find the push rods were all bent and some were in pieces. The final verdict was they had put a cam in that did not play well with anything else. It also lowered the vacuum enough that the brakes would not work. So I also can't stress enough...

"don't cut corners. By the right stuff the first time. Save your money to get the best you can buy... once."
And I will add; Talk to experts to make sure all the parts are compatible. (Just like building your own computer)
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I watched an episode of FantomWorks last night. They could not figure out why a 64 Vette was not running right. Compression was excellent, timing was good, etc. Then they took the valve covers off and found loose rockers. They dug deeper to find the push rods were all bent and some were in pieces. The final verdict was they had put a cam in that did not play well with anything else. It also lowered the vacuum enough that the brakes would not work. So I also can't stress enough...

"don't cut corners. By the right stuff the first time. Save your money to get the best you can buy... once."
And I will add; Talk to experts to make sure all the parts are compatible. (Just like building your own computer)
Funny you say that, I actually did build my own computer a few years ago. I just used a website that let you enter the parts you want and it tells you whether or not they're compatible. Idk if there's anything like that for engines though.
 

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Funny you say that, I actually did build my own computer a few years ago. I just used a website that let you enter the parts you want and it tells you whether or not they're compatible. Idk if there's anything like that for engines though.
Look to Hughes Engines at that link I posted above. Read their information.
Knowledge is a good thing.
Even if you don't buy parts from them, they have the knowledge. What they recommend is from experience. And I feel they are right about what they say.
And if you think it might be a waste of time... at least read this section... https://www.hughesengines.com/TechArticles/basicreadingforenginebuildingphp.php
 

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Thinner head gaskets will also bump compression up a bit and yes, push rods need to be changed, if not then certainly measured and checked. Non-dished valves will also help.
 
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