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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have an 86 ramcharger that wants to run 210+ at an idel with the radiator cap off
there is no boiling over or bubbles in the water to think its a bad head,this is what i have
done in the past say 2 years
changed the water pump,tried stock and a high flow
changed the thermostat tried all from 160-195
changed the radiator went from stock 2core to a new 3 core
changed fan clutch even tried a solid fan and a electric 15'' fan
changed head gaskets and are on right and diddnt see any clogged ports
timeing is set right vacume advance is working
replaced ignition modual
i have flushed the system out more tha once and never got anything out of it
for one week i started it got it to operating temp and let it set overnight without the rad cap on to burp the system
right now it has a 180 stat running the new fan clutch with the factory 5 blade fan the new stock water pump and the 3 core radiator
i have not touched this 210 temp once what the heck is causeing it?
the 360 motor i was told when i bought it 4 years ago had a stock rebuild with around 25000 miles on it it has an rv cam and 4bbl carb air mixture is set right not lean and has true dual egsust
does any body have any sugjestions you can call or text me at 620-230-9502
and my email is [email protected]
thanks jay!!
 

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How are you measuring the temps?  Hopefully not with the stock gauge.  If you are measuring with a hand held device then a lot depends on where you shoot for the temp.  210 might perfect depending on where the temp came from. 

Why are  running without a cap?  Put it back on and see what happens.

What is in front of your radiator?  If there are other radiators like a/c or trans in front of the engine radiator, make sure they are all free of bugs and mud.  Also make sure all the fins are straight to the incoming air flow.

One thing to check for is a collapsed lower radiator hose.  Put the cap back on and rev the engine and watch the hoses for signs of collapsing.



Cheers

Chris

 

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Does it maintain 210? or climb under load? Nothing wrong with 210 if it holds that temp.
 

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You never mentioned if you had a fan shroud or not.  They make a huge difference if you don't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
guess i for got to metion a few things sorry lol!!
was testing with the cap off to see how cool it would run,with the cap on it runs around 220 at an idel driveing it it will go to 230 sometimes more.
i am running 2 temp gauges the factory and an aftermarket,the edelbrock intake i have has the factory position for the factory gauge witch is front passenger the aftermarket one is lokated just to the right side of the thermostat houseing,i also bougt a new senser for the factory gauge,the factory gauge goes to hot and the aftermarket reads the numbers.
yes i do have the factory fan shroud and its in good shape.
the bottom rad hose is new and its not colapsing.
was told the newer models run 200-210 thats what my 99 durango runs but my 86 should run around 190-195 if it would stay around 200 at idel or driveing then i would be happy but this is just way to hot i dont want to damage anything if i havent already,as soon as the thermostat opens it stays open,i also was told and read that it should open and close to be able to cool the water befor reserculation and i can see how that is but my 97 dodge has a very week thermostat in it and on the factory gauge it only goes up to the first mark even in this 100 plus degree weather we have been haveing so that throughs a confuseing wrench in it for me.
the 3 core radiator is new and clean nothing clogging the vents,it does have a/c and the codenser vents are clean as well there it a small trans cooler just to the bottom passenger left i dont know if its stock cause i dont know if it came out with one but its clean as well.
did notice that it got hotter faster when i put the stock pump back on but was told to take the high flow off cause it was flowing to much to fast.
anyways guys dig deep and if ya can help get this thing figured out cause and i will say it again it just dosent make any sence after all i have done i have not touched it one bit you would think it would have cooled alittle bit,it may be later tonight or tomorrow befor i get back on here so thanks for the replys and keep them comeing ;)also remember i'm just a shade tree machanic cant do any fancy stuff and i'm limited on tools and cash!!
 

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Yea it sounds like we're gonna have to dig deep on this one!

other bits to consider

Broken thermostat,  check by removing and bringing up to temp in pot of water with thermometer (ask wife/girlfriend for their cooking one)

thermostat installed backwards?  I've done dumber things myself

Time to pull the sparkplugs and see how they look

How about base timing?  It might be time to completely recheck and retime your engine.  making sure #1 is at TDC, dist rotor pointing the correct way.  Timing marks make sense (no slipped harmonic balancer etc.

Last but not leas, air bubbles.  Possible air pocket causing problems.


If you can try and get your hands on a thermal IR gun so you can take actual temps around various parts of the cooling system.


Cheers

Chris
 

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If the engine was worked on before, maybe overboring...  That would be bad.  Not saying it is high on the list, but if everything else proves inconclusive, it's on the list of possibilities.  I believe a similar case was posted here a few years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ya my brother suggested that it may be bored to far,i'm going to pull it again and knock the soft plugs out and if it is all clear i have a 78 model 360 setting on a stand it runs but not rebuilt,do you think after all i have done that the heads are ok? and if so can i put them on the 78 sence they are rebuilt or should i leave the 78 heads on there,i dont have enough to rebuild the 78 was just going to put all the good parts on there,or if you think the heads are bad on my 86 can i put the heads on off the 78 and put the newer vaulvs and spings in the 78 heads,hope i'm not cofuseing ya just need a good opinion right now,my rc has been setting for around 4 years now trying to get things working right and wanting to start driveing it again
thanks jay!
 

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Before swapping the engine, you could pull a head and measure the bore.  230 F is a bit high, but unless you ran it a long time under a load like that your heads should take it.  Check for straightness when you have a head off.  Warping is what happens from overheating (as well as cracking if it's bad).
 

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ii am having a simular problem with my sons 85 Rc .I am gonna look for intake leaks tonite or possible a vacum leak
 

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Interesting...this thread reads just like mine does, still no resolution on it either, been thru the gamut for ideas, nothing really covered it, but I'm seeing similar temps as well.
 

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This thread is over 4 years old.  Start a new one.
 
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