Dodge RamCharger Central banner
1 - 20 of 46 Posts

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the a 77 Dodge M880 (W200) the specs are on my signature. Any ways im running 36 inch hummer tires with 4.10 gears. The problem is i just have no power. ill get in to a mud hole and the only way i can throw and power through it is to build up momentum. If not, i can have the petal to the floor and still just barely move.And mabe be at 1800rpms. Ijust want the truck to go when i step on it. Should I-
A- Build up the 318, (cam,timing chain, headers,etc)
B-Just save the money and get a big block and transmission
Ive been looking for a old polara or other 70's car with a 440 so i can just take the engine and transmission. Can you swop out tail housing on a bigblock trans with a small block trans.
Has any one got descent power out of a 318 in a big truck running big tire? I know for a fact alot of yall have 318 so any help would be appreciated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,219 Posts
ProjectM880 said:
I have the a 77 Dodge M880 (W200) the specs are on my signature. Any ways im running 36 inch hummer tires with 4.10 gears. The problem is i just have no power. ill get in to a mud hole and the only way i can throw and power through it is to build up momentum. If not, i can have the petal to the floor and still just barely move.And mabe be at 1800rpms. Ijust want the truck to go when i step on it. Should I-
A- Build up the 318, (cam,timing chain, headers,etc)
B-Just save the money and get a big block and transmission
Ive been looking for a old polara or other 70's car with a 440 so i can just take the engine and transmission. Can you swop out tail housing on a bigblock trans with a small block trans.
Has any one got descent power out of a 318 in a big truck running big tire? I know for a fact alot of yall have 318 so any help would be appreciated.
while the bigblock would be nice, it isnt always a feasible option for several of us. if you have access to one then i say go for it, if not then there are several ways to build the small block to get the power you want out of it.

yes the tailsahft is interchangeable between the small and big block trannies

what kind of budget are you working with. you could always stroke the 318 and get alot more power out of it, but you are looking at a few thousand dollars.

other than that i would say get some 302 heads, maybe bump your compression to 9 or 9.5 to 1 put in a decent cam, headers never hurt, get a good 4 barrel carb, i would stick with the stock cast iron manifold unless you are really interested in saving the 20 pounds an aluminum manny would save you.

i would also consider a shift kit in the tranny along with a good rebuild and make sure you have a good torque converter in it.

these are a few things off the top of my head, i am sure others will add their ideas as you go.

eric
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26,070 Posts
Are you running heavy hp absorbing hummer rims also?

You can stroke the 18 or get a 60 and stroke that while you continue to use your truck.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have the stock rims. My budget is tight. I was hoping that a cam in the 318 would make the differents. I already have higher compressions 318 heads on there. its not quite 9to1 compression but upper 8's. I have a 4 barrel intake from a 360 and a holley 650 which i think is a direct replacement for a thermoquad. I don't have the cash to take the engine in and get it bored and stroked. Would a stock 360 do any justice to my truck or would i still be in the same situation. My trans could really use a rebuild and a shift kit i put that lucas trans treatment in it just so it would stay in gear. My friend built up a 318 in his 79 pw and he put 360 police intersepter heads on it and a mid range cam. its a great street engine but i don't now how well that setup would work on my truck in the mud.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,998 Posts
Well, I ran a 318 fro a good while with 38-39" tires, and steel rims. PRobably don't weigh as much as your tires, but still....

I had a 4bbl, headers and not much else. I did have 4.56 gears tho, and a locker inthe rear and a trac loc up front. I never had a problem spinning the tire or with power inthe mud. I could power brake the truck and it would smoke the 39's.

It sounds to me like you may have a very tired 318 (worn out cam, low compression, etc), and/or some trans problems that are sucking your power up. With those tires/gears, you should have a bit more acceleration than me with the same power engine since your effectoive gear ratio is a bit better. Something ain't right...either it's the engine or the trans.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
its got all most 110,000 miles (i thinks who nows how many time its rolled)on the engine and trans. plus it was a ex-military truck. when i got the truck the engien had a blown head gasket and the trans neutral safety switch was fried. ive tried my best and done the best i can with the money i have. but ive got alot of my parts used too. The 360 intake manifold, 650 holley, 318 heads (30,000 on rebuild), were all used. im thinking of putting my old head on to see if there better because i swapped the heads when i changed the head gasket.bother heads don't have any emission ports on them.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,794 Posts
I'm in the same predicament... I've got a '77 Power Wagon, bone stock 318 2v, Np435, 4" lift, 35's, 3.55 gears. Although mine sounds like it has more power than yours, it still sucks.
First of all, are you running it though the mud in LOW LOC? If not that's the prob right there.
Now, here's what I'm doing w/ my engine...
Edelbrock 600cfm carb, performer non EGR intake, RV cam, double roller timing chain, headers, dual 2.5" single chamber flowmasters, milled 360 heads, MP orange box, and accel coil.
I'm hoping to pulled 250-300 horses, but I might but another engine, bore it, and drop in some higher compression pistons.
Hope you'r project turns out well
-Steve C.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
886 Posts
That high rise intake isnt doing you any good, either. High rise intakes are made for high rpm torque and hp. Think of Nascar cars - their intakes are really tall. Keeps that carb up high for high rpm, high speed power. Check e-bay for deals on intakes. You can usually pick one up pretty reasonably. What you need is a factory 4-bbl, or maybe an edelbrock performer. You don't need the Performer RPM; it's made for a higher rpm range.
 
G

·
whlnwgn: Port match that intake to take best advantage of the 360 heads. Sounds like a good torquey package. You should easily manage 300hp, with the torque to match.
Project M880: Get some 360 heads on that thing. The port mis-match doesn't help things. And don't get caught up in the Names game. I'm referring to the "Police Interceptor" term applied to the 360 heads you referenced. While they may have come from a cop car, they're just 360 heads. Don't get ripped off if the situation arises. You really need more cam to do anything. Stock pre-Magnum 318 cams are embarrassingly small. Slap a Comp Cams XE250H or XE256H or something along those lines in that engine when you rebuild. A stock 318 will pick up 100hp and great torque with just a few solid bolt-ons. Sounds like you have most of them already.
A stock smogger 360 shows about 260 gross hp on the dyno. You have 42 more cubes and the inherent torque that comes with displacement. Still pretty mild. It'd need more cam too. A '77 reman 360, started at 266hp/371 ft/lbs. That's a stock cam, 8:1 compression engine. With 4bbl, 4v intake, headers, and the CompCams XE262, it belted out 335hp/400ft-lbs, with the cam adding 54hp, and more torque. The 318 would have similar results, if just a bit lower.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The 4 barrel manifold i have if from a stock 360. i was told that it is a stock high rise intake. it look to be taller than most stock four barrels but this one came from the factory. I don't know though its just what i was told.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
If the 318 you're running at 110K miles still has good compression, than I would first start looking at the simple "components" on the engine, being you indicated you're on a tight budget and all. Take the distributor, mechanical advance, vacum advance and the timing. When you set the timing, does it change drastically after you rev the motor? If so it may mean your t-gear and chain set are worn.

If the heat crossover in the intake manifold is blocked, you may be experiencing carb icing or the choke could be staying on partially on, robbing power because the mixture is too rich.

What do you know about your torque convertor? What is the rated stall speed? You can get an aftermarket 1000 rpm higher than stock, (Summit or Jegs), for a reasonable price, that would allow the motor to rev into the power band faster and easier to give you the wheel speed to keep the largeer tires moving and cleaning themselves out.

Personally I'd try to optimize the stuff you've got first, (Make sure it's all working like it is supposed to, before I'd start replacing performance items. Sometimes some of the best improvements you can make are fixing what's wrong with what you've got.

I've got a 318 in a RC, ('90 TBI), running 37's with 4.56's and the stock convertor and it's got good wheel speed in the goo with the stock convertor. The 318 can be a very good motor if you're willing to work with it.
Dave
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
886 Posts
Another thing I have just learned the hard way is your distributor. You can buy a reman at Oreilly's for $40 exchange. I couldn't believe the difference it made. That's something that's pretty easy to do, with minimal cost. Even if you don't see a significant gain, at least you have the satisfaction of knowing you changed out something that was prolly worn out anyway and has been neglected.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When i got the truck i didn't run so i had to change each part of the ingnition until it ran, distributor cap, spark plugs and wires, voltage regulater, the ignition box its not the orange one. all of these parts are orielly special, i beleive the brand is "select".
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I just found a 440 with transmission for sale for $400. How much do yall estimate it would cost to get every thing to install it and run. can i use my ignition of the 318. or do i have to get a hole new ignition. Im just trying to determine the cost will come to the same for each or if the 440 will be a lot more.
440-$400
parts needed to install and make work-$?
318- already have
cam, carb work, timing chain, gaskets,headers-$??
That even if it gives me the power i want. I don't know what condition the engine is in, so iwilll call the guy later to night.

thanks for the help

(Update- I called the guy and the engine and transmission are taking apart, so that one is no go)
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
5,704 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok Summit racing makes a cam that is really cheap compared to the others,$86.95. The duration @ .05 is 218/228or theres one for 204/214. I was think sense it a cheap cam to do a new cam and timing chain because its cheap and if i get a big change then ill just keep the 318. what do yall think would be a better cam for mudding, trail driving, and driving around my ranch. The truck is a ranch truck it never sees pavement. theres also a comp high energy cam for $93.95 duration @ .05 212/212. what the better duration of the cams for my truck.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
26,070 Posts
Use the 204 214 since that's all your doing, and that might just be the border line for those valve springs so if it doens't feel so good change the valve springs to match the cam
 
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top