same casting number, different part number. The tie rod stud on Dakotas is smaller.
2wd spindle ?s...oh chump.
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I bolted the Dakota spindles on but did not drive the truck. The spindles should swap no problem for any truck after '83. Prior to that, the spindle spud was smaller and they used a different inner bearing and seal. Recent research has led me to believe that Dodge simply changed the rotors/hubs/bolt pattern on 2 wheel drives to the 5.5" starting in 1985. Inner/outer bearings and seal #'s did not change from 84-93 unless you get into the heavier axle ratings (3800#?) Bill(?) said he had to ream the Dakota steering arm to accept his tie rod end (stud). My tie rod ends fit just fine. I didn't research that any since mine was okay. SB88, have you got my Ram Lowering chart yet? It should answer a lot of your questions but I'm no all-knowing guru. 
No, it is several inches shorter on the dropped Dakota spindles. This is the biggest drawback to using the Dakota spindles but those using them claim there is no effect on steering response. Too bad everybody that makes spindles for the Dakotas casts them with the steering arm attached.Evildriver-3 said:
![:-\](https://www.ramchargercentral.com/s3/ramchargercentral.com/data/static/Smileys/default/undecided.gif "Undecided :-\")
ok, here is something i noticed. the spindle it seff is mounted as low on the knuckle as it can possibly be.
*WHAT IF*
somebody took off there spindles, switched the drivers and passenger, and mounted them up side down? of coiurse you d need to mount the tie rod up side down also.
unless the ball joints are different top and bottom, i dont see why it cant be done. of course i dont have a dodge near by to test on
*WHAT IF*
somebody took off there spindles, switched the drivers and passenger, and mounted them up side down? of coiurse you d need to mount the tie rod up side down also.
unless the ball joints are different top and bottom, i dont see why it cant be done. of course i dont have a dodge near by to test on
I believe that would put your tie rods at an unfavorable angle. Causing all types of bumpsteer. Also, your calipers would now be mounted at the bottom of the rotor, with the bleeder screw and hose likely to be hanging below the lower a-arms. Pucker factor when running over a rock in the road would rate very high. 
G
Wherever you buy your spindles, do NOT buy 'em from AIM Industries in Arizona. Poor service, poor product. I have a pair of 'em laying on the work bench I bought last year [year before last?] for my '84. The spindle is cast, then drilled and the shaft is pressed in. Took a month to get 'em, and they were junk.
The first set they sent, the shafts were loose. They finally sent me another set after another six weeks and I paid 1/2 the freight. They came with a disclaimer about using stock offset wheels only to prevent breakage. Not sure I want to trust my life to their spindles, so after thinking it over, I never installed 'em. Money spent, lesson learned.
Heard other guys gripe about their service and products too, only after I bought the spindles of course.
Can't remember who, but someone offers forged 2" drop spindles for B/E bodies now. [Not Fatman Fab's welded jury rigged $500 junk]. I went bone yarding with a tape measure hunting spindles. The lower ball joint bolts have the same spacing on 1/2 ton pickups/B/C/F/M body cars, but the bolt to spindle CL is the same, so no drop. B/E parts interchange, so ? Maybe with a little upper ball joint skullduggery/parts swapping you could use the B/E-body drop spindles/11" brakes/rotors?
The cars are rear steer,the truck's front steer, but since the lower ball joints bolt on? Would open up a lot of aftermarket brake options too for '84 and earlier 4 1/2" bolt circle trucks.
Something I've wondered about for some time, just never had the time/money to research. Freind of mine has a couple Challenger and Coronet parts cars, might look into it one day.
Edit: Found 'em. Magnum Force has the E-body spindles.
The first set they sent, the shafts were loose.
They finally sent me another set after another six weeks and I paid 1/2 the freight. They came with a disclaimer about using stock offset wheels only to prevent breakage. Not sure I want to trust my life to their spindles, so after thinking it over, I never installed 'em. Money spent, lesson learned.Heard other guys gripe about their service and products too, only after I bought the spindles of course.
Can't remember who, but someone offers forged 2" drop spindles for B/E bodies now. [Not Fatman Fab's welded jury rigged $500 junk]. I went bone yarding with a tape measure hunting spindles. The lower ball joint bolts have the same spacing on 1/2 ton pickups/B/C/F/M body cars, but the bolt to spindle CL is the same, so no drop. B/E parts interchange, so ? Maybe with a little upper ball joint skullduggery/parts swapping you could use the B/E-body drop spindles/11" brakes/rotors?
The cars are rear steer,the truck's front steer, but since the lower ball joints bolt on? Would open up a lot of aftermarket brake options too for '84 and earlier 4 1/2" bolt circle trucks.
Something I've wondered about for some time, just never had the time/money to research. Freind of mine has a couple Challenger and Coronet parts cars, might look into it one day.
Edit: Found 'em. Magnum Force has the E-body spindles.
G
Hey lug, you ever try belltechs spindles? I read your thread on dodgetalk a while back and thank you for informing us about AIM, airbagit, chassis techs poor service/shoddy product. Definatly save us some hassle.
Heres a VERY informative thread on dak spindles.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4222381&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
Definatly save us some hassle.Heres a VERY informative thread on dak spindles.
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4222381&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1
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