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My Dodge will turn over but won't fire without ether. I've replaced Fuel shut off solenoid, lift pump, rebuilt the pre heater, replaced the steel line from the filter to the lift pump. I'm getting air out of the bleeder on top of the filter cap. I know the filter canister is full, I have pumped it  what feels like 1000 times.  I got fuel in the first 3 injectors, (when looking at the motor from the front). There was a ferral on the  steel line I replaced but is there an O ring on the steel line that screws into the top of the preheater? And when I put the hose connection on the front of the lift pump that connects to the pre heater, I was told to use teflon paste, which I did. I have the relay for the fuel shut off solenoid to put on yet.
 

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howdy and welcome / yup you have an AIR leak for sure which you need to figure out and yes there should be a seal [ o ring] but its not a normal rubber o ring

NOTE / its OK but this is posted on the wrong board and l,m gonna have it moved to the Diesel board for you
 

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Sounds like my '96. Did pretty much what you have done and still in same boat. However, I put an auxiliary small tank on my flatbed and gravity fed that to the line leaving my truck tank to the filter and has been working good except that I still have the return line hooked up to the truck tank and not the temporary one. I also pulled the gas tank off and cleaned it and found that someone previously had replaced the tube that goes into the tank with a rubber hose and it felt soft and looked bad, I didn't replace it and I think my air leak is in that hose. Have been meaning to replace it correctly, but I use the truck in the yard only so it isn't my daily driver. Maybe I'll get to it later and hopefully fix it.
 

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Fuel delivery. On my 1996 12 valve I have added an electric inline pump part # E-8845( $44.00 on e-Bay) and a primary fileter under the cab near the fuel tank. It makes 30PSI which is about max on the 12 valve. most flow check/return valves are fixed lower than that. Some aftermarket adjustable valve can be set higher

With the boost pump I can change filters and just run the pump till fuel is returning to the tank and it will start. Plus you can see leaks, air leaks will now be fuel leaks. The fuel heater and water sensor in the stock filter are common spots for air leaks.Napa 3391, Wix 33391, Fleetwood FF5282 , Fram P3726 will replace stock filter with out the hole in the bottom for the water sensor that tends to leak. If you don't need the fuel heater, it's an easy delete also.
 

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you say won't fire without either ... does it stay running after a wif of either starts it ? please be carefull with that , there are heaters that are hot like a toaster wires at start up , either can/will burn when it contacts them in the intake NOT inside  the cylinder . things to look for if it does keep running , air leaking into lines between injector pump and fuel tank , weak bad transfer pump , bad fuel check valve allowing "drain back" into tank when parked . Some used a special fuel inlet elbow at the inj pump , outwardly it looks like a normal elbow fitting , but has a check inside .
 
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